New pool questions

Daders

Member
May 23, 2022
17
DFW
Pool Size
27000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi all, this is going to be a long read! As the title states we have a new pool; previously had a swg pool as a renter so have minimal experience with pools. Homeowners now (means getting serious about this being adults stuff!) and built a 18x40’ rectangular diving pool with 6’ tanning shelf and 7x7’ attached spa.
Equipment: 2 Jandy VSP 2.7 hp (one dedicated for waterfalls), Polaris PB450 booster pump, Jandy 4.5hp swim jet, cartridge filter, Ultra UV2 sanitation, Nature2 Fusion Inground (7 Cl puck capacity), Jandy heater (gas) haven’t checked out specs but requested capacity capable for both pool and spa, Jandy blower (for spa) and Polaris quattrosport cleaner.

Also, builder installed auto fill and overflow drain.

Took 18 hrs to fill the pool; with 2 hoses first 6hrs and 3 last 12 hrs. Based on water meter, estimate 27k gallons for the pool (forgot to check meter before builder filled spa).

Pool is operational as of April 18 and builder provided Pentair Rainbow 78 test kit (Cl, pH, acid demand and Alkilinity) then he mentioned I should buy Cyuranic acid test.

Well, I had to go on a trip May 7 and returned May 21 so I left the “assistant” in charge. Turns out the “assistant” wasn’t very keen on assisting and the chlorine pucks were gone and pool went slightly off color. Put chlorine pucks in the Fusion 22 May (Sunday) evening and ran system normally. Next day (Monday 23rd) Cl level was already at 1 -aka “normal” range (remember, using Pentair Rainbow test kit. assume that’s ppm?). I vacuumed, brushed and tested other values. pH was 7.8, acid demand changed with a single drop and alkalinity used 9 drops (not perfect, but within spec according to builder during his “pool school”)

Ordered a CYA test kit and K2006C and will use those when they are received and report back. In the meantime here are some questions:

1. Cleaner hose was slippery/slimy along 50% of hose and could see pool floor some color variation. Was hoping it was mostly dirt/silt as our yard still is primarily dirt from the construction and I’m seeding vs sodding the yard. Unfortunately after brushing still some color variation indicating algae on Sunday 22nd. Then we got about 3” rain on Tuesday and Cl dropped to 0.5 when I tested Wednesday afternoon. As of today (Thursday 26 May), no longer see variation of color on pool floor and cleaner hose is no longer slippery (although have a bit of gray matter remaining on ~8” of hose between in-line filter and wall - I’m assuming it’s dead algae). I get the Taylor kit today so super excited to test everything ASAP. If Taylor kit indicates Cl is good and considering the pool is looking clear and blue again would SLAM be necessary?

Update 1: got CYA test while writing this beast of a novella and see black dot very faintly at 20ppm. Have stabilizer in socks currently and still anxiously awaiting Taylor kit arrival.

2. We get free energy at nights, everything I’ve read stresses running pool during daytime and this really bothers my “sticking it to the man” psyche. Can I run the pump at super low speed during day and crank it up during the nights and still maintain the pool relatively easily?

3. Never had a spa before and it looks like the Quattrosport cleaner probably won’t work in it. Do you just brush the spa surfaces more frequently to stir up the sediment or do you vacuum? I find the vacuum quite frustrating due to not being able to get the corners clean. Any tips/suggestions?

4. Testing of water questions:
Builder said to fill water by dunking vials upside down until elbow depth to ensure testing below where CYA resides. Is there an optimum depth for collecting water for CYA test? Eg within 6” of surface, within 12”?

Thanks all!


PS. Have Jandy Aqualink R/S controller, any gurus have suggestions/guidance on how to set up slow pump speed during daytime operation and high speed during nighttime operation?
 
Update! Got the test kit!!

FC: 0.4
CC: 0.4
pH: 7.4
TA: 80
CH: 200
CYA: <30

Currently have stabilizer in socks in front of skimmers. Have resigned myself to SLAM tomorrow, off to re-read SLAM!
 
2. Yes, you can dial down the pump during the day.

3. I don't know about spas.

4. This is good advice. Your water should be tested 18" or so below the surface. I don't think it has an much to do with CYA as it does FC. CYA should mix homogeneously after a day or two.
 
Thanks MIT,

Now just need to learn how to create a schedule that allows me to link a low speed during daytime and high speed at night with the iAquaLink app. Not super enamored with the RS-8 control vs IQPump, that was much easier to set up different filter pump speeds and schedules. Hoping it’s just a learning curve.

Tested water again this afternoon after adding 3 gal 6.55 hypochlorite bleach this morning and still dissolving ~ 7 lbs of stabilizer.

FC 4.2
CC 0
pH 7.4
TA 80
CH 160
CYA slightly above 30

Just added another 2 gal bleach.


Any tips/thoughts are welcome.
 
You can use 10ml water sample to test for FC. One scoop of powder, each drop is 0.5ppm. That's precise enough for our needs. :)
 
3. Never had a spa before and it looks like the Quattrosport cleaner probably won’t work in it. Do you just brush the spa surfaces more frequently to stir up the sediment or do you vacuum? I find the vacuum quite frustrating due to not being able to get the corners clean. Any tips/suggestions?
I use a Pool Blaster Max in my spa. Also to get debris in the pool that the Quattro misses.
 
Ok, finished SLAM Saturday as water looked clear and blue. Current values and pic from today (temp fencing is to keep the furball from becoming a mudball while enjoying the pool and allow the grass to take root. However he has already bypassed my high tech security system and utilized the wall to escape, but fortunately no rolling in the mud…yet!):

FC 3.0
CC 0.0
pH 7.4
CYA 45
TA 90
CH 180

I know should bump up Cl level for CYA, but wanted to see where equilibrium Cl level occurred with current setting on equipment (2400 rpm and value of 2.5 on Fusion for Cl pucks) plus the golden retriever will probably be dropping CYA level quite quickly with his constant in and out chasing a retrieving dummy.
4BAAE590-2EEE-4EB4-901A-58A7D3C97BD3.jpeg
 
Last edited:
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If you're using the recommended Taylor CYA test, know that you can't extrapolate between lines. If your reading is between 40 and 50, count it as 50.
 
Time to stop the pucks. Use liquid chlorine. Remove the mineral pack from the Fusion. It is adding copper that will stain the pool and turn blonde hair green. You need to plug that was in the device when new.
 

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UltraUV2 sanitizer
This is depleting your FC. I would suggest disabling or removing your UV device. You get ample free UV from the sun.

Fusion inground (for chlorine puck)
You need to find a long term viable means of chlorination. You are a great candidate for a SWG. No minerals. No tabs.

Builder said to fill water by dunking vials upside down until elbow depth
Get a two foot length of 1/2" PVC pipe. Put your thumb over one end, dunk the other end ~18" below the water, then release your thumb. The pipe will fill with water. Put your thumb back over the end when the pipe is full, lift it from the water, and release the water into your receptacle (I use a condiment squeeze bottle).
 
Time to stop the pucks.
Please explain why. Consider I don't mind the added expense of pucks if they provide greater time interval between adding vs liquid Chlorine to maintain proper FC level.

Remove the mineral pack from the Fusion. It is adding copper that will stain the pool and turn blonde hair green. You need to plug that was in the device when new.
Hmm, wife will be upset with me if she suddenly develops green hair...hope PB left the plug. Thanks.
 
Please explain why. Consider I don't mind the added expense of pucks if they provide greater time interval between adding vs liquid Chlorine to maintain proper FC level.


Hmm, wife will be upset with me if she suddenly develops green hair...hope PB left the plug. Thanks.
Pucks will add CYA. CYA doesn't degrade at nearly the rate FC is used, so you will be increasing your CYA with each puck, requiring more FC to remain sanitary. 50 is a good spot - you don't want to go much higher.
 
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Probably the 2nd most common reason for poor pool water quality is pucks. They provide important ingredients but the CYA continues to build up over time, eventually rendering the chlorine ineffective
 
This is depleting your FC. I would suggest disabling or removing your UV device. You get ample free UV from the sun.


You need to find a long term viable means of chlorination. You are a great candidate for a SWG. No minerals. No tabs.


Get a two foot length of 1/2" PVC pipe. Put your thumb over one end, dunk the other end ~18" below the water, then release your thumb. The pipe will fill with water. Put your thumb back over the end when the pipe is full, lift it from the water, and release the water into your receptacle (I use a condiment squeeze bottle).
Appreciate the input, not going to change a newly built pool one month after completion.

I do like your last suggestion, that will be nice for testing in the wintertime temperatures.
 
Thanks for the CYA info guys. During the summer I'm not super concerned about CYA levels as our golden retriever displaces a lot of water from the pool to not the pool during dummy retrieving sessions...it is a daily activity. At our old place we had a 13k pool, between him and evaporation from TX heat we would need to fill it 2x/week to maintain the water level.
 
Update!

Well it’s been a stupid hot summer and not much swimming has been occurring because the pool temp quickly got up to 93 around mid-June. Combine that with 7 tabs/week and CYA rose quickly. Bought a return “fountain”, and started running pump overnight, which drops the temp to 88 by morning (pool rises to 92 by evening). Switched to liquid bleach last week until we can get the furball enjoying swimming more than 20 min at a time again. But since switching to liquid bleach he has removed enough H2O to drop the CYA back down to 60.
 

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