One other thing, my TA would've been higher, but my husband had only bought 5 2lb boxes of baking soda (too late at night to go back), so I was short 4lbs.
New pool pump died after 2 hours-new startup
- Thread starter texasgal78
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TA at 70 is fine. Yes, TA at 40 would likely leas to unstable PH.
How did you add the CYA? In a sock as shown here, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Have you used Poolmath to determine how many PPM 4lbs of CYA adds to your pool? What is your target? I would target 50 ppm for now.
Always keep FC above minimum for your CYA level, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] to keep the pool sanitary and algae free.
How did you add the CYA? In a sock as shown here, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Have you used Poolmath to determine how many PPM 4lbs of CYA adds to your pool? What is your target? I would target 50 ppm for now.
Always keep FC above minimum for your CYA level, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] to keep the pool sanitary and algae free.
Well, my husband has been having a hard time believing all this information from here that I'm telling him and wanting to go by everything his pool friend is telling him. After last night and a big arguement, he is being more receptive
With that being said, when he put the 4lbs of cya in, he threw it in the skimmer as he was told. He is at the store and I will have him pickup more CYA and we will add it as recommended in pool school for a target of 50. Why would we get a reading of 0, if we added some already? Could it be floating around in the pool undissolved? Looks like from pool math 4 lbs would have brought it to only around 25 ppm, so we would still need to add some.
~I didn't check FC yet, but I will do that now to determine how much more chlorine to add? Do I still use the Cal-hypo? or would I just use bleach and calcium separately since my CH is still a bit low?
~Do I still try to increase my TA? or keep it at that level and bring down my PH?
Sorry for so many questions! So much to learn and I'm trying my hardest to understand everything! I appreciate all the help!!
Chlorine drop test- maybe a tinge of pink tint to it, but pretty much clear.
The CYA is stuck in the filter and will probably take a week or so to dissolve and show up on the test. Don't clean the filter or you will lose the CYA, or some of it. Yes, add another 4lbs in a pair of knee highs and hang them in front of a return or put them in the skimmer. Squeeze them to dissolve them.
Leave your TA alone for a month at least. When PH goes above 7.8 lower it to 7.5 with muriatic acid.
You can keep using cal-hypo until your CH gets to 250 ppm. Keep a log of how much you add and stop when you added enough to get to about 250. The number isn't critical, up to 300 or even 350 is fine. Then switch to bleach/liquid chlorine.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to never let your chlorine drop below minimum level for your CYA. I know that you don't know exactly where it is right now. But, in no case will it ever be OK to have FC below 3 or 4 ppm. If it does stay there for much longer you are going to have algae. And then your hubby will really complain about how this isn't working.
I would bump FC up to 8 or 9 just in case to beat back any algae that might maybe trying to get started. And brush. And remember it is safe to swim when FC is between minimum and shock level. So, elevated chlorine levels are no problem at all. Even though the pool store says keep it under 3.
You are doing great and asking good questions. Keep at it!
Leave your TA alone for a month at least. When PH goes above 7.8 lower it to 7.5 with muriatic acid.
You can keep using cal-hypo until your CH gets to 250 ppm. Keep a log of how much you add and stop when you added enough to get to about 250. The number isn't critical, up to 300 or even 350 is fine. Then switch to bleach/liquid chlorine.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to never let your chlorine drop below minimum level for your CYA. I know that you don't know exactly where it is right now. But, in no case will it ever be OK to have FC below 3 or 4 ppm. If it does stay there for much longer you are going to have algae. And then your hubby will really complain about how this isn't working.
I would bump FC up to 8 or 9 just in case to beat back any algae that might maybe trying to get started. And brush. And remember it is safe to swim when FC is between minimum and shock level. So, elevated chlorine levels are no problem at all. Even though the pool store says keep it under 3.
You are doing great and asking good questions. Keep at it!
Take a look at the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] and notice the range of FC levels for CYA from 20 to 50. FC between 4 and 6 will keep you OK. Just make sure not to go below 4. Leave yourself a little cushion by keeping it 5 to 7.
If you think you see a tinge of pink on the drop test, add one more drop. If the color does not change then you are done and subtract that last drop from the results. For example: doing the FC test, added 6 drops, still looks barely pink to me, add 1 more drop, no change. Result 7 drops -1 that didn't do anything = 6 drops divided by 2 for 3ppm of FC. If that 7th drop had made it completely clear the result would be 7 divided by 2 for 3.5ppm of FC.
The CYA is stuck in the filter and will probably take a week or so to dissolve and show up on the test. Don't clean the filter or you will lose the CYA, or some of it. Yes, add another 4lbs in a pair of knee highs and hang them in front of a return or put them in the skimmer. Squeeze them to dissolve them.
Leave your TA alone for a month at least. When PH goes above 7.8 lower it to 7.5 with muriatic acid.
You can keep using cal-hypo until your CH gets to 250 ppm. Keep a log of how much you add and stop when you added enough to get to about 250. The number isn't critical, up to 300 or even 350 is fine. Then switch to bleach/liquid chlorine.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to never let your chlorine drop below minimum level for your CYA. I know that you don't know exactly where it is right now. But, in no case will it ever be OK to have FC below 3 or 4 ppm. If it does stay there for much longer you are going to have algae. And then your hubby will really complain about how this isn't working.
I would bump FC up to 8 or 9 just in case to beat back any algae that might maybe trying to get started. And brush. And remember it is safe to swim when FC is between minimum and shock level. So, elevated chlorine levels are no problem at all. Even though the pool store says keep it under 3.
You are doing great and asking good questions. Keep at it!
Thank you so much!!! Everything is in and hoping for the best! As soon as we finished, it poured down rain. :/
~One last question for now...When are we able to swim? We are on our day 4 since fill.
I would swim when it stops raining! Or tomorrow.
It is safe to swim when
FC is above minimum and below shock level for your CYA, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
PH is 7.2 to 7.8
Water is clear
It is safe to swim when
FC is above minimum and below shock level for your CYA, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
PH is 7.2 to 7.8
Water is clear
Oh, that soon, great!
We were told to run our pump continuously for 22-24 hours a day, I think for the first week. How long do you recommend?
Yes, run the pump 24x7 and brush daily. If you have a 2 speed pump or variable speed pump you can run it on low. Run it 24x7 as long as there is still plaster dust when you brush.
The CYA is stuck in the filter and will probably take a week or so to dissolve and show up on the test. Don't clean the filter or you will lose the CYA, or some of it. Yes, add another 4lbs in a pair of knee highs and hang them in front of a return or put them in the skimmer. Squeeze them to dissolve them.
Leave your TA alone for a month at least. When PH goes above 7.8 lower it to 7.5 with muriatic acid.
You can keep using cal-hypo until your CH gets to 250 ppm. Keep a log of how much you add and stop when you added enough to get to about 250. The number isn't critical, up to 300 or even 350 is fine. Then switch to bleach/liquid chlorine.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to never let your chlorine drop below minimum level for your CYA. I know that you don't know exactly where it is right now. But, in no case will it ever be OK to have FC below 3 or 4 ppm. If it does stay there for much longer you are going to have algae. And then your hubby will really complain about how this isn't working.
I would bump FC up to 8 or 9 just in case to beat back any algae that might maybe trying to get started. And brush. And remember it is safe to swim when FC is between minimum and shock level. So, elevated chlorine levels are no problem at all. Even though the pool store says keep it under 3.
You are doing great and asking good questions. Keep at it!
When you said "keep a log of how much you add and stop when you added enough to get to about 250". How do I know how much calcium I'm putting in since it is Ca and hypochlorite? My CH level is now at 200. Does it take some time to come up and that's why I need to keep track? Do I stop putting in the cal-hypo at this point and start using the liquid bleach? Thanks!
These are my other numbers this am
PH 8.2
FC 2.5
CC 0.5
CH 200
TA 70
CYA 40 yesterday and has been consistenty at this level for 3 days. Do you think it's all done dissolving from the filter? or should I continue to check?
I'm going to throw in some muriatic acid and chlorine, but wanted to check on which chlorine to use.
Oh, and today is my daughter's birthday and she's having a few friends come over to swim today. Should I recheck levels before that to make sure everything is wnl? how long does it take to change after putting in the acid and bleach?
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You can check the levels 1/2 hour after adding the chems, and it will be safe to swim. If you brush right after adding the chems it will speed up the distribution of the chems.
Always check levels before a party and I would bump up the FC to 8ppm or so if there are going to be more than a few people swimming.
I would lower the pH to 7.5 and don't let it get above 7.8 from now on.
Always check levels before a party and I would bump up the FC to 8ppm or so if there are going to be more than a few people swimming.
I would lower the pH to 7.5 and don't let it get above 7.8 from now on.
Your FC is too low right now to swim.
FC must always be above minimum for your CYA, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA], to be safe. When FC drops below minimum the kill rate for bacteria, algae, viruses and pathogens is too low and the risk of person to person disease transmission increases, especially with kids.
It doesn't take that long for the calcium to show up. There is a tool called Effects of Adding Chemicals, that you can use to see what any chemical will add to your pool. Enter gallons at the top first.
Happy birthday swim party is awesome!
FC must always be above minimum for your CYA, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA], to be safe. When FC drops below minimum the kill rate for bacteria, algae, viruses and pathogens is too low and the risk of person to person disease transmission increases, especially with kids.
It doesn't take that long for the calcium to show up. There is a tool called Effects of Adding Chemicals, that you can use to see what any chemical will add to your pool. Enter gallons at the top first.
Happy birthday swim party is awesome!
Thanks! So, most likely there will be always more than a few people swimming...do I always have to keep my FC that high? I have been using 7.5 as my goal. It always creeps back up to what looks like between 7.8 and 8.2. Should I shoot for something lower, like 7.2 to keep it from getting above 7.8?
Your FC is too low right now to swim.
FC must always be above minimum for your CYA, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA], to be safe. When FC drops below minimum the kill rate for bacteria, algae, viruses and pathogens is too low and the risk of person to person disease transmission increases, especially with kids.
It doesn't take that long for the calcium to show up. There is a tool called Effects of Adding Chemicals, that you can use to see what any chemical will add to your pool. Enter gallons at the top first.
Happy birthday swim party is awesome!
Thanks! I feel like I am DUMPING loads of liquid bleach twice a day, morning and night! Last night I put in 106 oz and that morning I put in 59 oz. Both times FC was down to 2.5. I have been keeping my goal at 8, since we've been having a few of my kids friends over. Is that normal? I rechecked CYA, it looks more like it's at 30-35, instead of 40. But, the amount I added so far 8#s should of had us at around 50. Is my pool needing so much chlorine, bc maybe I don't have enough stablizer in it? I bought more and just put 2#s more in a sock in the skimmer and pump is running. If I calculate based on 35, i need 2.3 #s to bring it up to 50.
We also still have white particles still floating in the pool (we see it more when we brush and it gets pushed up from the floor... what is that?
Our CH levels is still rising without me doing anything to it. Its at a good level, 250. Is this a bad thing?
When did you add the CYA?
How did you add the CYA?
Yes, you need CYA at 50 or 60 to protect it from the sun. And it will greatly reduce your chlorine consumption.
Here comes another important lesson. IMPORTANT!
Our water here in DFW has a very high tendency to scale. You must manage your CSI to avoid scaling. If you do a good job of managing your CSI it will add a decade or more to the life of your plaster.
Here's how, it's easy.
Enter all your test results into Poolmath and it will give you a CSI number. Keep that CSI number between -0.3 and 0. Tweak PH, TA and maybe CH to adjust it.
More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling
How did you add the CYA?
Yes, you need CYA at 50 or 60 to protect it from the sun. And it will greatly reduce your chlorine consumption.
Here comes another important lesson. IMPORTANT!
Our water here in DFW has a very high tendency to scale. You must manage your CSI to avoid scaling. If you do a good job of managing your CSI it will add a decade or more to the life of your plaster.
Here's how, it's easy.
Enter all your test results into Poolmath and it will give you a CSI number. Keep that CSI number between -0.3 and 0. Tweak PH, TA and maybe CH to adjust it.
More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling
When did you add the CYA?
How did you add the CYA?
Yes, you need CYA at 50 or 60 to protect it from the sun. And it will greatly reduce your chlorine consumption.
Here comes another important lesson. IMPORTANT!
Our water here in DFW has a very high tendency to scale. You must manage your CSI to avoid scaling. If you do a good job of managing your CSI it will add a decade or more to the life of your plaster.
Here's how, it's easy.
Enter all your test results into Poolmath and it will give you a CSI number. Keep that CSI number between -0.3 and 0. Tweak PH, TA and maybe CH to adjust it.
More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling
Last time (2nd time) we added CYA (4#)was on the 11th. In a sock in the skimmer. The first time we added it (4#s) my husband's pool friend has us throw it straight in the skimmer :/ That was around 6/8.