new liner. is this the correct chem order?

abfab

Gold Supporter
Nov 12, 2012
206
Ontario, Canada
Water is scheduled to be filled today via garden hose (municipal water) which I was told would take about 24 hours or so to complete. Is this the correct order of adding/adjusting chems? I have the Taylor 2006 and salt test kits.

- test fill water to get a baseline
- add 5 - 20kg bags of salt (dilluted in bucket?) and run pump on high for 24 hours with swg turned off
- add liquid chlorine to 3-5 ppm (one post said 3 another recommended 5?)
- add stabilizer to 40-50ppm (ideal = 60)
- adjust ph to 7.4-7.6
- adjust TA to 50
- retest and adjust after 24 hours. Turn on swg

Also I'm having filter serviced as I was getting sand in the pool. Sand will be replaced (over 10 years old) and laterals/gaskets inspected. Any additional instructions related to this?

Thanks!
 
Congrats Abfab !!! I patiently await the pics as I help. :)

CYA and FC are job #1. The CYA will take a day or two to be good and mixed and your FC will get depleted quick until it does.

60 CYA is likely fine for Canada with the season coming to a close up there.

Verify the salt baseline and dump in 80% of the difference, let it mix for a full day or more and then creep up to the target. Dosing with LC won't be terrible for a few days, and if anything, you'll appreciate the SWG that much more when you're ready to turn it on.

PH is an easy fix per poolmath either way once it's full. Any 7 is fine for now.

Raise TA between 60-100 if need be, or manage the PH if TA is high and it will come down on its own.

Sand never needs replacing, if no pool store potions were ever used, but it's also cheap to start fresh after 10 years it wasn't yours the whole time to know for sure, or you fell victim to the pool store before landing here. The filter inspection will hopefully address any issues it's having.

Keep us posted. And pics.
 
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I would add stabilizer first before adding chlorine. Without stabilizer the chlorine will be a little harsh on things. I would imagine you can add the salt as well. If you use pool math you may be able to adjust something else while the stablizer dissolves, maybe raise the alkalinity a little.
 
I think I am almost there! A couple of questions however....
TA for fill water was 70. Is this normal? I retested and still getting that.
25ml CH test did not turn blue. It started as link red/pink then went clear. I did a 10ml test adding 5 drops of R12 first as I read about in a post and got a light blue. How do I interpret this?
 
Congrats Abfab !!! I patiently await the pics as I help. :)

CYA and FC are job #1. The CYA will take a day or two to be good and mixed and your FC will get depleted quick until it does.

60 CYA is likely fine for Canada with the season coming to a close up there.

Verify the salt baseline and dump in 80% of the difference, let it mix for a full day or more and then creep up to the target. Dosing with LC won't be terrible for a few days, and if anything, you'll appreciate the SWG that much more when you're ready to turn it on.

PH is an easy fix per poolmath either way once it's full. Any 7 is fine for now.

Raise TA between 60-100 if need be, or manage the PH if TA is high and it will come down on its own.

Sand never needs replacing, if no pool store potions were ever used, but it's also cheap to start fresh after 10 years it wasn't yours the whole time to know for sure, or you fell victim to the pool store before landing here. The filter inspection will hopefully address any issues it's having.

Keep us posted. And pics.
I have no idea how old sand is or how well the previous owners maintained the pool. I haven't replaced it in the 10 years I've been here. Since I don't have time to tackle this project myself I figured the cost of a few bags of sand is worth it.
 
I think I am almost there! A couple of questions however....
TA for fill water was 70. Is this normal? I retested and still getting that.
25ml CH test did not turn blue. It started as link red/pink then went clear. I did a 10ml test adding 5 drops of R12 first as I read about in a post and got a light blue. How do I interpret this?
That ta is a great starting point 👍🏻 Every water source has different TA - there is no “normal”

You have a less than readable ch - don’t sweat it for now. U can Add what is recommended for your particular heater (usually around 150-200ppm) after things are up & running. Being off by 25ppm on ch is of little consequence.
Fc daily, cya, & ph in the 7’s are your main priorities along with creeping up on your salt target.
 
sand was just replaced. tech said that laterals and gaskets are fine and that the sand in the pool was because sand was old and filter was quite dirty. When it gets old the grains get finer and can bypass the system. Does this sound reasonable?
I admit that I haven't been good at monitoring the pressure and backwashing as I assumed that using a robot and having very little dirt in the pool meant the filter stayed pretty clean. Pump usually runs on low other than when heater is being used.
 
sand was just replaced. tech said that laterals and gaskets are fine and that the sand in the pool was because sand was old and filter was quite dirty. When it gets old the grains get finer and can bypass the system. Does this sound reasonable?
I admit that I haven't been good at monitoring the pressure and backwashing as I assumed that using a robot and having very little dirt in the pool meant the filter stayed pretty clean. Pump usually runs on low other than when heater is being used.
At least the tech got one thing right, your sand is old. Billions of years old.
 
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Now that you have new sand take a look at "deep cleaning your sand filter" on here. It will help you in the future. My last filter was a DE filter and it got totally cleaned at the end of each season ... a sand filter is new to me.
 

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