New House, Old Pool, Previous owner jerry-rigged everything.

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flyoffacliff

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Aug 7, 2016
15
Pennsylvania
Just moved into a new house with a large (about 35k gallons, based on my measurements) Aqua Leader AG pool, about 10 years old I think. The previous owner had all the equipment jerry-rigged, and chemicals were stored wrong. I showed the pool store guy this picture of the equipment and he flipped out about the way they had a top-discharge pump connected to a D.E. filter like that. He recommended connecting the pump and cartridge filter on the right. Which is currently unused. Is the way they have the plumbing done really a big deal? And the equipment sitting on the ground instead of a plastic base?

I bought a replacement pressure gauge for the D.E. filter to be installed where they put the plastic plug. And what is all that orange goop where the hose goes into the D.E. filter? Is there anyway to get it off? It's supposed to be a 1 1/2" NPT connection I think. I would like to add a 3-way diverter between the pump and filter, so I can connect a hose and "vacuum to waste". And maybe a ball valve where the return eyeball is, for maintenance.

At the moment, I am using 3" Tri-clor tablets in a floating thing, and I have a Taylor test kit. Pool guy said they thing sitting on the ground in left of the filter is for mineral cleaning or something, but missing parts. Also, the pump in use is only 3/4 HP, isn't that kind of small for a pool this size? I would like to add a heat pump eventually, which probably means all equipment and plumbing is too small, right?

Also, why is the wall with the skimmer and return mounted to it like a different material than the rest? At least the liner is in good condition.

Thanks for any help.

101906
 
Well it looks like you've got a little bit of work ahead. Overall though, depending on what you want... it's not to bad.

Equipment on the pad instead of a plastic base is not a big deal in itself. Just want to make sure it's secure and won't move around. The flex hose is not a big issue either (many people just use flex for AG pools).

The cartridge filter and pump look to be in a little better shape than the DE you have (does the pump on the cartridge filter work?) I can't tell which model Perflex DE filter it is from the photo but, with a pool your size if it's less than the EC 65 than it's undersized. I'm guessing the 3/4 hp pump is going to be undersized as well. (even the EC65 would have to run the pump 10 hrs to get you a single water turnover in the pool)… Cartridge filter may be the better option for you make sure it's sized accordingly .

The panel containing the skimmer and return being different from the rolled wall is not uncommon. Usually a stainless panel. It's actually a nice feature.

The Zodiac/ mineral cartridges are frowned upon in these forums. I had one for years but, the cost:benefit & the potential downsides made me drop it with my new install. I certainly wouldn't put money into repairing one.

Be careful with using the Trichlor tabs... if you're unfamilar go to the Pool School section of the website and read up. The tabs can cause your stabilizer levels to increase to a high level (creating issues that usually require water changes).

The 3-way valve is a good idea. Hayward actually makes one that goes between the pump and filter. (I am using Jandy valves as the ball valves sold in most big box stores will not open/close smoothly after a short time in service).

I'm sure others will jump in to help. Wish you best of luck with your 'new' old pool.
Respectfully,
Panzer
 
Panzer said:
Well it looks like you've got a little bit of work ahead. Overall though, depending on what you want... it's not to bad.

Equipment on the pad instead of a plastic base is not a big deal in itself. Just want to make sure it's secure and won't move around. The flex hose is not a big issue either (many people just use flex for AG pools).
Click to expand...

That's good to hear. It's not bolted down to the stone, but heavy enough that it shouldn't move unintentionally. Thank you for the reassurance that I don't need rigid PVC pipe. But I was specifically referring to the pipe between the pump and filter. It's a different material than the rest of the flex hoses for some reason? (stiffer and with different fittings). The guy said pumps with this style of hose are designed for sand filters, because the water goes in the top. Pumps for DE/Cartridge have it coming out the side. I am thinking this might reduce flow rate a lot?

Panzer said:
The cartridge filter and pump look to be in a little better shape than the DE you have (does the pump on the cartridge filter work?) I can't tell which model Perflex DE filter it is from the photo but, with a pool your size if it's less than the EC 65 than it's undersized. I'm guessing the 3/4 hp pump is going to be undersized as well. (even the EC65 would have to run the pump 10 hrs to get you a single water turnover in the pool)… Cartridge filter may be the better option for you make sure it's sized accordingly .
Click to expand...

Not sure, I plugged in the pump of the cartridge filter for a few seconds and it was loud, but seemed to run. It is 1HP instead of 3/4 HP. Not sure what looks bad to you about the DE filter. It is the EC65A. The calculations I came with with say 14 hours. But I run the pump 24/7. I don't really see a point in getting a larger pump and running it less often to equal the same turn over-time as before. I just took a look at the cartridge filter yesterday and the arm I pushed up against the cover when I was taking it off got a rash and felt prickly all day, I think the filter is covered in fiberglass splinters! But maybe I can paint it or something.

Panzer said:
The panel containing the skimmer and return being different from the rolled wall is not uncommon. Usually a stainless panel. It's actually a nice feature.

The Zodiac/ mineral cartridges are frowned upon in these forums. I had one for years but, the cost:benefit & the potential downsides made me drop it with my new install. I certainly wouldn't put money into repairing one.
Click to expand...

Cool, so it gives it extra stability. Thanks.

Panzer said:
Be careful with using the Trichlor tabs... if you're unfamilar go to the Pool School section of the website and read up. The tabs can cause your stabilizer levels to increase to a high level (creating issues that usually require water changes).
Click to expand...

I am familiar with them, but thank you. I'l stop using them when the CYA reaches a good level. Maybe switch to Cal Hypo tablets (I know they can't mix). Our tap water here is really low in calcium.

Panzer said:
The 3-way valve is a good idea. Hayward actually makes one that goes between the pump and filter. (I am using Jandy valves as the ball valves sold in most big box stores will not open/close smoothly after a short time in service).
Click to expand...

Cool. I think I saw that valve, but it was designed for a side-discharge pump. I thought any 3-way valve would work, but not sure how to connect it with that weird piece of tubing and clamps and orange sealant stuff, lol.

Panzer said:
I'm sure others will jump in to help. Wish you best of luck with your 'new' old pool.
Respectfully,
Panzer
Click to expand...

Great, thank you for taking the time to help me out!
 
Those 2 90 degree fittings between pump and a filter definitely reduce water flow.
It would be better to replace them with straight fittings and use flex hose to connect them.
The point is to eliminate any sharp turns in order to maximize water flow.
 
Those two fitting on the pump and filter don't matter that much, ideal? No. Think of it just adding 6'-9' of pipe per 90 because that's the same thing.

If the flex pipe feels similar to a shop vac hose it needs to be replaced, if it feels think and stiff it's good pool or suction hose.

3/4 hp is good enough for general circulation but it does have limits, use it until you can afford a two speed or vsp.

Use which ever filter is in better condition and bigger
 
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