New here, new pool owner, trying to absorb a lot of info and get the pool going!

The good news is I don't have much to unlearn, as I wasn't able to interact with the guy enough do to stupid business hours, and the whole skimmer debacle made me lose faith pretty quickly. That and a friend turned me onto the baking soda for TA idea at which point I started to question what other chemicals can I get a lot cheaper.. Though I also mistakenly followed that same friend's advice for getting the pool clear... MORE CHLORINE, MORE SHOCK MORE MORE until it's clear!! I was not quite as extreme as he though, he said he kept his chlorine dispenser filled to the brim with tablets daily, plus adding pounds of shock every day.

It's funny about the strips.. when I was in high school (graduated in 2003) my family had a 20x40 pool and the local pool place we went to if we took a bottle of water for testing all she did was use one of the strips and she'd tell us what chemicals to get.. strangely that always seemed to work. Though that was also in Northern PA so Algae wasn't all that common.

Still seems odd though that the pool store computerized test system wanted me to add more stabilizer after the 25lb of shock and the 6-10lb of stabilizer... what would their system be checking for?

Also note while not super high volumes I have been continually adding water to the pool due to the aforementioned skimmer leak, as well as backwashing.

I was a little baffled at one of our friends (the one who recommended this pool guy) said during summer months their water bill goes up by $150/month due to backwashing.. I don't think our total water bill has been more than $20...



yeah, high CYA is very common when people come here from the "pool store guys". they simply don't understand the chemistry relationship between CYA and FC. check your 25lb tub of shock, its probably dichlor, if so that's what I plugged in. and you added more, so you definitely are going to have high CYA unfortunately. sorry man, but unfortunately its a very common lesson learned as you will find the more you read the site.

the test strips are not accurate, and I wouldnt put any faith in them. I am going to bet your CYA is going to be over 100 when your test kit arrives :(

the reality is your pool is probably going to need at least a partial drain and refill, and those chemicals you bought is money gone at this point. yes, it would have been money better spent on draining and refilling the pool, but chalk it up to learning curve. the good news is, you are going to spend $65 or so on the test kit, plus probably $100 on chlorine I bet, plus the cost to refill your pool...but after that, maintenance costs are going to be so much cheaper moving forward. you will also have a crystal clear pool you can be proud of and will know everything about its pool chemistry.

it may sound complicated and it will be the first couple of days of the SLAM, but by the end you will know so much about your pool and how it works you will be amazed going back and reading your original posts. I promise.

but one thing I have been saying, in order to move forward you have to un-learn what you have learned from the pool store. they are in business to sell you high priced chemicals and have you coming back over and over. the people here have no financial gain based on recommendations.

- - - Updated - - -

the fact that this pool guy wouldn't test your water and had you adding shock and stabilizer without knowing current levels is disappointing. this guy sounds like he has no idea what he is doing and is just out to steal as much money as he can from you. He has really done you a disservice which is going to result in you having to remove water. would give him the big middle finger next time you crossed paths.
 
I understand the pool guys make a living off selling product, and obviously my local guy is clueless on a number of levels, but how do pools even manage to stay clear at all if they're sending CYA levels off the chart? I have local friends that recommended the guy, been using him for years and have no issues...

At this point my parents pool people must be geniuses... My dad said they pay about $100/mo and people do all the work for them... my parents do nothing but set the temp on the heater... Their chlorine is nuts though... as in bleach your bathing suit while you swim..
 
they keep a pool relatively clear by recommending shocking the pool every week. the pool will look clearer after that but it doesn't kill the algae, which is why they make you do it every week. they also have you put in algaecide which will work, but then you are putting metals in your pool that you don't want and don't need. the secret to pools is not difficult. first you have to sterilize your pool with the SLAM. it takes time, but once you are done you have a pool with no algae. after that, you maintain a FC level that prohibits algae growth. it wont start to grow and makes maintenance VERY easy.

And I will tell you one thing, your definition of clear will change. I thought my pool was pretty clear. and then I went thru a full SLAM and was shocked. even my wife was impressed how clear the water became, and she is one of those types that cant tell the difference between SD and HD tv! haha.

and the TFT type pool is great to swim in. I can swim in my pool with my eyes open under water with zero burning. my 2 year old daughter has eczema, and she doesn't even need to shower off after the pool, it doesn't bother her skin at all. everyone that sees my pool always compliments and says they wish their pool was so clear.

- - - Updated - - -

Still seems odd though that the pool store computerized test system wanted me to add more stabilizer after the 25lb of shock and the 6-10lb of stabilizer... what would their system be checking for?

well a couple issues with the pool stores. most I have been to advertise the computerized tests...ever seen them do the testing? they are using strips, etc and the putting the results into the computer. they aren't taking your sample and putting it into some computerized testing lab.

CYA is easily the most screwed up test they do. I had my pool tested (before coming here) by three different local pool stores. The three results for CYA?? 100, 100 and 0. my actual CYA when I got my testing kit? 30.

Usually they get FC and pH pretty close though.
 
I'm actually really excited to get started with this, except for the cost... my wife was already giving me the evil eye anytime I talked about buying pool chemicals.

I just did some quick math out of curiosity to see how much water I've added to the pool for the year. I took my water bill and got the average from Dec-March when I hadn't started messing with the pool, and then subtracted that average from April and May to get a sense of how much "new" water was in the pool. Note the 25lb shock and stabilizer was all added in April so new water in May was just treated with whatever I came up with.

April- 935 gallons added
May- 5975 gallons added

Assuming the pool is 30kgal then I have 20% "new" water since the 25lb shock and stabilizer added. However I did have tablets and powdered shock in there still.

Also, maybe I missed a response, I understand chemistry is more important but where should the pressure gauge be, and what kind of gauge should I get?
 
Well some slightly good news.. Only 20lb shock and 8lb stabilizer, and I didn't use all the stabilizer.
f56484454465b149cdd85df18c284654.jpg
b59ff61b54238d9e513e663f92baafec.jpg
 

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Fair point, this thread has wandered to and fro, I've learned a lot so far, so let me re-cap everything that has been done so far.

Phase 1: Pool Guy
Informs me that skimmers are junk and I'll have to keep water level below skimmers and just circulate off the bottom drains.
Water is green, pool guy says he can't test the water until it's clear. Prescribes 20lb "Super Shock" (Calcium Hypochlorite) @50oz/day along with TriChlor tabs (2 in dispenser at all times) and Polyquat algaecide.

Water turns from green to clear-ish but is still cloudy. First water test is done. PH is 6.2, alkalinity is low (not sure exact #) FC is 0, "Stabilizer" is 0

Pool guy gives me 25lb of "alkalinity up" and some "UV Shield" (CYA). I added 5-6lb of UV shield and all the Alkalinity up. Also, I think 2lb of shock. (tablets are constant)

2nd test PH is around 6.8, alkalinity still low, "stabilizer" is in single digits, metal content is high (especially copper). he gives me more Alkalinity up, and "metal magic", recommends a clarifier to remove suspended particles but I pass, wanting to get chemistry right before going for cosmetics.

After this there was a time of about 2 weeks where I couldn't get ahold of pool guy, wouldn't return my calls or e-mails and store hours are terrible, so I give up on him.

Phase 2: DIM (Do it myself), remembered about 10-15 years ago maintaining the pool my parents had in high school and the pool lady locally used a basic 6 way test strip and that seemed to work fine, so why shouldn't I be able to do the same? Got Clorox test strips at WalMart, looked at the results and took my best guess. Discovered 13.5lb bags of baking soda at Costco for $4.62 were a suitable substitute for alkalinity up.

Around this time I'm able to determine that one skimmer is OK and the other can probably be repaired.. I block off the leaking skimmer and raise the pool level.. over the course of May I added about 6kgal (20% pool volume) of water which includes a couple failures of my block-off for the bad skimmer and blackwashing..

Per the test strips I adjusted alkalinity to around 80+, PH to 7.2-7.8 (range given on strips), FC to 4. "Hardness" is off the scale high and "stabilizer" between 0 and 50 (the strip doesn't give any indication between these two). Pool is still cloudy but reasonably clear... Pool declared officially open!

I let the tablets run out and FC goes back to 0 overnight, and pool turns green. Not deterred I grab 6lb of "Xtra Blue" Clorox Shock from Walmart, which raises FC to 5, and clears the pool overnight (still cloudy), FC drops back to 4 overnight. Success! I continue to maintain FC at 4 and all is well.

Tablets run out again, FC drops to 0 and pool turns green again, Having read the note on the back of Clorox shock that FC level should not exceed 4, I give just enough chlorine to stabilize at 4-5, but pool remains green... doing a web search for why do I have a green pool when FC is in the correct range, I stumble across this site, and in casual reading determine that values higher than 4 are OK (didn't read much farther) so I get my FC up to ~10, and pool is mostly clear again, but still cloudy. Also I decide to start this thread, and realize that about everything I've done so far is wrong.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Now I'm in a holding pattern as we are preparing to leave for vacation this Saturday I don't have time to get the proper test kit to determine what needs to be done. We will be gone Saturday to Saturday, and my immediate concern is what is the best course of action to prepare to get things straightened out when I return.

We do have someone that is going to visit occasionally to check on things, but I don't think it will be daily. I asked my wife to pick up several gallons of chlorine at walmart tonight when she does the shopping for our trip. I don't have accurate CYA readings as the only test method I have are Clorox 6-way test strips.

Is there a risk of having FC go too high as long as no-one is using the pool?
 
Fair point, this thread has wandered to and fro, I've learned a lot so far, so let me re-cap everything that has been done so far.

Phase 1: Pool Guy
Informs me that skimmers are junk and I'll have to keep water level below skimmers and just circulate off the bottom drains.
Water is green, pool guy says he can't test the water until it's clear. Prescribes 20lb "Super Shock" (Calcium Hypochlorite) @50oz/day along with TriChlor tabs (2 in dispenser at all times) and Polyquat algaecide.

Water turns from green to clear-ish but is still cloudy. First water test is done. PH is 6.2, alkalinity is low (not sure exact #) FC is 0, "Stabilizer" is 0

Pool guy gives me 25lb of "alkalinity up" and some "UV Shield" (CYA). I added 5-6lb of UV shield and all the Alkalinity up. Also, I think 2lb of shock. (tablets are constant)

2nd test PH is around 6.8, alkalinity still low, "stabilizer" is in single digits, metal content is high (especially copper). he gives me more Alkalinity up, and "metal magic", recommends a clarifier to remove suspended particles but I pass, wanting to get chemistry right before going for cosmetics.

After this there was a time of about 2 weeks where I couldn't get ahold of pool guy, wouldn't return my calls or e-mails and store hours are terrible, so I give up on him.

Phase 2: DIM (Do it myself), remembered about 10-15 years ago maintaining the pool my parents had in high school and the pool lady locally used a basic 6 way test strip and that seemed to work fine, so why shouldn't I be able to do the same? Got Clorox test strips at WalMart, looked at the results and took my best guess. Discovered 13.5lb bags of baking soda at Costco for $4.62 were a suitable substitute for alkalinity up.

Around this time I'm able to determine that one skimmer is OK and the other can probably be repaired.. I block off the leaking skimmer and raise the pool level.. over the course of May I added about 6kgal (20% pool volume) of water which includes a couple failures of my block-off for the bad skimmer and blackwashing..

Per the test strips I adjusted alkalinity to around 80+, PH to 7.2-7.8 (range given on strips), FC to 4. "Hardness" is off the scale high and "stabilizer" between 0 and 50 (the strip doesn't give any indication between these two). Pool is still cloudy but reasonably clear... Pool declared officially open!

I let the tablets run out and FC goes back to 0 overnight, and pool turns green. Not deterred I grab 6lb of "Xtra Blue" Clorox Shock from Walmart, which raises FC to 5, and clears the pool overnight (still cloudy), FC drops back to 4 overnight. Success! I continue to maintain FC at 4 and all is well.

Tablets run out again, FC drops to 0 and pool turns green again, Having read the note on the back of Clorox shock that FC level should not exceed 4, I give just enough chlorine to stabilize at 4-5, but pool remains green... doing a web search for why do I have a green pool when FC is in the correct range, I stumble across this site, and in casual reading determine that values higher than 4 are OK (didn't read much farther) so I get my FC up to ~10, and pool is mostly clear again, but still cloudy. Also I decide to start this thread, and realize that about everything I've done so far is wrong.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Now I'm in a holding pattern as we are preparing to leave for vacation this Saturday I don't have time to get the proper test kit to determine what needs to be done. We will be gone Saturday to Saturday, and my immediate concern is what is the best course of action to prepare to get things straightened out when I return.

We do have someone that is going to visit occasionally to check on things, but I don't think it will be daily. I asked my wife to pick up several gallons of chlorine at walmart tonight when she does the shopping for our trip. I don't have accurate CYA readings as the only test method I have are Clorox 6-way test strips.

Is there a risk of having FC go too high as long as no-one is using the pool?
It's concrete, so bleaching out the vinyl isn't a concern. The test strips haven't gone above 50 CYA have they? So... no danger if the FC hits 20. Any higher than that will be wasting bleach.

Have you ordered a test kit so it'll be waiting when you get home?
 
It's concrete, so bleaching out the vinyl isn't a concern. The test strips haven't gone above 50 CYA have they? So... no danger if the FC hits 20. Any higher than that will be wasting bleach.

Have you ordered a test kit so it'll be waiting when you get home?

The test strip color indicates somewhere between 0 and 50, it's not solid at the color for 50.. That said everyone else here has indicated based on the product I've already put in that I'm probably at CYA 100+..

The test strips I have max out at FC 10 (assuming they're accurate at all?)

Guess it's a matter of trusting a test strip vs guessing at what in there based on what was added :confused:
I'm a mechanical engineer... Chemistry never was my strong point :brickwall:

May order the test kit while on vacation.. We're on really strict finances right now due to still having our old house for sale and my wife doesn't get paid for summer months (teacher) AND I find out I've gone about $500 in the wrong direction on pool chemicals, so even though I recognize the need $80 is difficult to come up with right now. Actually $90 as I don't have a pressure gauge either, but that's a different topic.
 
Well some slightly good news.. Only 20lb shock and 8lb stabilizer, and I didn't use all the stabilizer.
f56484454465b149cdd85df18c284654.jpg
b59ff61b54238d9e513e663f92baafec.jpg

actually the best news is that the shock was cal-po which does NOT add stabilizer/CYA! great news! it does add calcium hardness (CH), but that's not as big of a deal and MUCH easier to deal with.

hoping your CYA isn't too high when you get your Tf-100!
 
Great! At least my pool guy did something right there it seems like. Of course I've also added my share of Clorox/Generic shock that is Tri or Di chlor, plus the tablets.

We'll find out in ~2 weeks I guess.

I think we have a plan of attack for when we get home, but in the mean time, should I just do a gallon of bleach, and have our friend add a gallon each time she visits? Or is there something better we can do to start?
 
gallon of bleach isn't going to hurt. two gallons of bleach isn't going to hurt either. at this point I guess you just don't want it to get any worse, so some bleach will help. once you get the test kit and are back from vacation you can start attacking this pool.
 
Just would like to keep it from turning back into a green monster. If I have to replace some water I will... At the rates I see in my water bill a 100% fill would be around $140, and hopefully I don't need a 100% fill so it shouldn't be too terrible...
 
:cool:
Sorry if I'm asking dumb questions, I did read through the pool school stuff but mostly just got more confused

We are doing the same thing its very overwhelming but keep your head up! we ordered there kit should be here tommaow cant wait started with cya over 200 fill and drained pool 4 times ready to go for it no more pool stores for us good luck and welcome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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