New Guy From New Orleans Area!

The other 32% of the puck is what you need to worry about. It's stabilizer (CYA) that stabilizes the solid form and in your pool, acts as sunblock for the chlorine. Some CYA in your pool is good 30-60 PPM is common, and desirable. When it gets to 100-200 PPM or more, it bonds with your chlorine to the point where your chlorine does nothing to sanitize the water.... and algae is nearly uncontrollable. The stabilizer also collects in the pool, every puck you add, and adds more CYA that never really goes away. You need to remove water to get rid of it. Some pucks/sticks/tabs also add calcium, and in some pools, too much calcium is an issue.

Liquid chlorine is 6-12.5% chlorine with the balance (87-94%) being water (and a tiny bit of salt). The water does nothing adverse in thine pool and salt is so minor it's normally not even mentioned.\


READ POOL SCHOOL for more data.
 
Like tech guy said, the CYA will do in your pool. When I bought my house the previous owner only knew pucks and shock. It's open 12 months of the year, and while we do get a fair amount of rain to replace water, my CYA was 200+. Once you get into diluted testing the numbers are a little fuzzy.

You want to use liquid chlorine or a salt water chlorine generator.

Only add what your pool needs, when it needs it. Simpler and it will save you money.
 
Only add what your pool needs, when it needs it. Simpler and it will save you money.

This right here sums up why TFPC works so well.
 
Of course all yesterday i couldnt stop thinking about getting the water sampled and tested at work today. And of course I forgot to get a sample to bring to work. I will not forget tomorrow! I cant wait to get the TF100 to get a idea of how the water quality is.

I guess will just return the 100lb bucket of shock and get some liquid bleach. It was stated the pucks have added CYA which isn't always a good thing at elevated levels. The chlorine I get isn't pucks, its granules. Does that matter? Also with the TFPC/BBB do I need to get one of those floating puck thingys or is the bleach the only thing needed?

Will the TF100 tell me the cooper levels in the pool so I know if I will have to drain it or not? I hoping I don't, could I just not add BP to it the next time so the cooper level will fall off?

Honestly, how hard is it to get the pool set up at first? What if you get a bunch of rain or go on vacation for a week and are unable to sample and add whats needed? The PB basically managed itself, a lot of the chemical levels in the pool have been unknown which is scary but it stayed clean and clear so im wondering how involved this will take.

Wayne
 
No, the TF100 doesn't test for metals at all.

We use Bleach mostly, and we do so because it has very little side effect. You might be able to keep your bucket and use it. If it says Dichlor, or Trichlor as the ingredient, I would take it back. If it says Calcium Hypochlorite, keep it until you test CH with your new kit, then we can tell you.

If you know the chemical person who comes in to do your Boilers/Cooling Towers, he/she can run Copper for you. Or again, one of the Plant Lab water persons can perhaps run metals like Iron and Copper. These are fine to wait on, unlike the Chlorine. Which you'll be doing on the spot now which is best. Congratulations on taking the step to get a kit. Best thing you can do for your pool. Once the pool is balanced and you stay on top of that, it's easy. Rain or shine.
 
I guess will just return the 100lb bucket of shock and get some liquid bleach. It was stated the pucks have added CYA which isn't always a good thing at elevated levels. The chlorine I get isn't pucks, its granules. Does that matter? Also with the TFPC/BBB do I need to get one of those floating puck thingys or is the bleach the only thing needed?

Will the TF100 tell me the cooper levels in the pool so I know if I will have to drain it or not? I hoping I don't, could I just not add BP to it the next time so the cooper level will fall off?

Honestly, how hard is it to get the pool set up at first? What if you get a bunch of rain or go on vacation for a week and are unable to sample and add whats needed? The PB basically managed itself, a lot of the chemical levels in the pool have been unknown which is scary but it stayed clean and clear so im wondering how involved this will take.

Wayne
As Patrick said, we need to know,what the "shock" is to be able to tell you (or Pool School will tell you) what it is and what it adds to the water. Pucks, granules or any solid chlorine produce is going to have something added to stabilize it. The most common are CYA or calcium. None of these pool chemicals are "bad" by themselves. They become bad when used without knowing what they really do to the water.

I would hold off any more chemical acquisition or disposal until you get your test kit and determine exactly what is going on with your water. When I discovered my CYA was 200+ I gave away a bucket of pucks to a friend who was on a puck/shock system. I figured I'd never need them, but a year later my CYA is normal and I could use them for vacation if I wanted.
 
I don't plan to do a single thing to the pool until I get the test kit in and water sampled.

I believe this is the MSDS to the stuff I have.

http://www.copooldoctor.com/images/stories/pdf/Refresh%20Dry%20Chlorinating%20Shock.PDF

This is what the bucket looks like, except its a 100lb bucket.

refresh.jpg


Wayne
 
That's what we cal Cal-Hypo. (Calcium hypochlorite)

It's ok for some people, but for those like me with already high Calcium in my makeup, it's no good. It would add more Calcium and make the scaling potential go up in my pool. This is one of those side effects I mentioned. In the end, all sources of Chlorine for pools have some side effect. In the case of Bleach, it's just a small amount of salt in the end.

Good plan by the way, that's says the best way to go. You're on the right track! :goodjob:
 
I keep pucks on hand for being out of town. The main thing is to KNOW what it does and plan for it..............a puck adds ___cya for each puck so.....I plan on having my CYA at so I can use pucks without worry.

I use a floater that I take out when I am not using it.

Kim
 
Patrick_B - I just reread my reply to your question about me working in the lab. I worded the reply wrong. I should have said no I do not work in the lab, im a operator. The unit I work in does have a mini lab that we run our samples in but isn't equipped with alot of the testing equipment like our QC building. I do know everybody in the lab so having them sample it wouldn't be a issue but it appears that a lot of the sample results are time sensitive so bringing a sample to work really wouldn't provide accurate results. I did just for S-A-G bring a sample today and this is what I got!

I sure do have a lot to learn and I just hope in the end I understand what im doing and don't have issues with the pool after due to me not knowing *** im doing lol. Its just very important to me to get it correct so my son has a safe place to swim. He is the entire reason why im doing this.

I took a sample at 0245 this morning, I got to work and tested it at 0335.

*Pool Temp was 77.5ish degrees when sample was taken.

*Sample Temp when the tests were performed was 73.5ish degrees

*pH = 7.41

*Free CL2 = 0.02mg/L

*Calcium Hardness = 259.4 Not sure what unit of measurement this is.

*Conductivity = 821 Microsiemens

Those are the only things I know of I can test at work. So how does it look? To me everything looks pretty good except for the CL2 level. I'm not sure of the UOM used on this site for CL2 to know if it's good or bad and from what I can tell its based off the CYA levels also and that currently is a unknown.

Wayne
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
If the calcium is ppm, you want to stay away from the calcium hypochlorate you just bought n use bleach. You're at the max for a liner pool.

Wait for a definitive answer with your test kit.,this is not hard n you won't mess it up. You're going to fix it. We will be here for you 24/7 to answer your questions.
 
Nothing is a waste of time if you can learn from it. You learned to make sure to use your test kit when it gets in!

I love that you are doing so much to get your pool set up for the well-being of your child. That is awesome!

Kim
 
I'd definitely run the CH numbers when you get the TF100.
 
Test kit just came in and I'm starting the tests.

So far it ain't looking good lol CL2 levels that is.

The Cl2 Drop Test says to add a heaping scoop of the R-0870. The only scooper that came was the blue one that's in the R-0011L solution do I use that one? The scoop end or the flat end?

Someone that knows how to do all the test call you text me ASAP so I can ask questions?

EDIT: Thanks for editing my number out, I was just coming to do that right now.

Wayne
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is sweet! Real time trouble shooting! I'm at work, and people better leave me alone. We are on a TFP mission here. Good job getting the test kit. Follow the little laminated card that came with it, take your time, and ask any questions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok so here is the results if I did everything correct.

Just did the CYA test and the tube was clear after filling the entire tube to the top. The way I did the test was I filled the bottle with pool water to the bottom of the label, then added the R-0013 to the top of the label. The sample stayed clear, transferred it to the tube with black dot and it stayed clear even with the tube completely filled.

TA=50
CH=350
FC=<.5
CC=<.5
TC=<1?
CYA=None based off the test I did above.

Pool Water
2006E8D4-09EF-4B28-9E99-32889606CF8A.jpg


Tap Water
C3FB8083-85DC-47B2-8240-55D69F4AEF6E.jpg


I'm havin to run out the door to go to work but will do more testing tomorrow and once I get to work ask some more questions.

Here is the pool. We have had a lot of rain the last few days.
957A0F6A-24A6-4A65-B838-668926AE0041.jpg


Wayne
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.