Need to keep increasing pump speed. Why?

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vanellya

vanellya

Bronze Supporter
Jun 15, 2021
82
toronto
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-20
Hello!
End of last year before I closed the pool I noticed that I needed to continue increasing the pump speed every few days because the flow meter on my intellichlor kept turning red. I ended up needing to run it at 2400 by the time the pool closed to be able to have enough flow to the chlorinator. This year when I opened, they cleaned the filter and I ran the pump at 1950. That was fine for a few days then it turned red again. I increased to 2050. Fine for a few days then red again. Now I’m up to running it at 2200. Anyone know why this could be?
 
When there are flow considerations, the #1 culprit is pool chemistry. It is possible you have algae...and don't know it.

Can you post full results of your K-2006 tests? How are you chlorinating?

I would suggest you do this test tonight...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
 
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Okay I will do this. I’m out of CYA test reagent but I’ll do the rest. Last year my CYA was 30 so I’ll use that until I get more reagent. I’ll do the overnight test tonight. I’m using a SWG but manually adding chlorine bc I don’t think the SWG when the water is a little colder. We have had ducks pooping in our pool so I’ve been cleaning and chlorinating to combat. The water is clear though.
 
PoolStored said:
When there are flow considerations, the #1 culprit is pool chemistry. It is possible you have algae...and don't know it.

Can you post full results of your K-2006 tests? How are you chlorinating?

I would suggest you do this test tonight...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Click to expand...
Hello,
I did the full panel of tests as well as the overnight chlorine loss test and I did not lose any chlorine, and also 0 Cc. However I am still needing to increase the pump speed every few days. I am now needing to run it at 2250 to trigger the flow on the chlorinator. I can’t understand why.

Here are my test results (attached)
Water temp is 60, salt level is 3450-3600.
 

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When and how did you last clean the filters? How old is the cell?

Can you tell us all the chemicals you added this spring? Might help if you have logged all your chemicals to share your pool math logs (in the app, upper right, click the gear, then scroll to the bottom and enable sharing).
 
The cell is new- from July 2022 when the pool was built. Filters were last cleaned when we opened a couple weeks ago when we opened for the season. They were pretty dirty and the guy hosed them down for 10 min. I asked if we should be doing an acid wash and he said no. Pic attached of how they looked. The only things added since open were shock, bleach and salt. The only thing of note I would add is that last year when we opened, all the pool wiring was chewed by a mous but it was all fixed. I also noticed last year that I had to run the chlorinator 24\7 at 92% to produce enough chlorine. Just giving all the info I have to try and solve this.
 

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Having ruled out organics, there is either, truly a flow problem, or there is a flow measurement problem.

On the measurement side, flow switches do go bad, and sometimes need to be replaced. I looked through your media, but it is hard to tell from the pictures you have.

It is typical for the flow switch to be under this cover that says "FLOW," but I don't see a wire coming out of it. Can you confirm there is a wire coming from this location?

1715434672102.png

You also have another wire mounted between the filter and heater...do you know what it is connected to? I'm not sure of Canadian equipment or requirements, it may be the flow switch.
1715434526412.png

On the flow side, might be worth cleaning the filter. Have you had a large amount of pollen and debris this spring? Is your pool full and skimmers working correctly? Not sure what else would cause a flow restriction.
 
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vanellya said:
. I am now needing to run it at 2250 to trigger the flow on the chlorinator.
Click to expand...

Humor us.

Remove your filter cartridges and see how your pool runs.

Then clean your cartridges and see if your RPM needs decrease.

What is your filter PSI now and what was your filter PSI when you opened your pool with your cleaned filter?
 
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PoolStored said:
Having ruled out organics, there is either, truly a flow problem, or there is a flow measurement problem.

On the measurement side, flow switches do go bad, and sometimes need to be replaced. I looked through your media, but it is hard to tell from the pictures you have.

It is typical for the flow switch to be under this cover that says "FLOW," but I don't see a wire coming out of it. Can you confirm there is a wire coming from this location?

View attachment 571981

You also have another wire mounted between the filter and heater...do you know what it is connected to? I'm not sure of Canadian equipment or requirements, it may be the flow switch.
View attachment 571980

On the flow side, might be worth cleaning the filter. Have you had a large amount of pollen and debris this spring? Is your pool full and skimmers working correctly? Not sure what else would cause a flow restriction.
Click to expand...
I will get a better picture of the wires when I go home in a couple hours. Pool is full and skimmers are working. No large amount of pollen or debris. I’m stumped.
 
ajw22 said:
Humor us.

Remove your filter cartridges and see how your pool runs.

Then clean your cartridges and see if your RPM needs decrease.

What is your filter PSI now and what was your filter PSI when you opened your pool with your cleaned filter?
Click to expand...
I will try this. I even asked the guy if I should replace the filters and he said no. PSI hasn’t changed unless I’m running it on pool max then the needle moves up.
 
PoolStored said:
Having ruled out organics, there is either, truly a flow problem, or there is a flow measurement problem.

On the measurement side, flow switches do go bad, and sometimes need to be replaced. I looked through your media, but it is hard to tell from the pictures you have.

It is typical for the flow switch to be under this cover that says "FLOW," but I don't see a wire coming out of it. Can you confirm there is a wire coming from this location?

View attachment 571981

You also have another wire mounted between the filter and heater...do you know what it is connected to? I'm not sure of Canadian equipment or requirements, it may be the flow switch.
View attachment 571980

On the flow side, might be worth cleaning the filter. Have you had a large amount of pollen and debris this spring? Is your pool full and skimmers working correctly? Not sure what else would cause a flow restriction.
Click to expand...
Here are some pictures of the wiring. There is a big cord coming out of the area marked flow on the intellichlor. It feeds into the automation box
 

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@ajw22 advice is first order. Remove the filters and see what happens to flow. Clean and replace filters and see what happens to flow.

If, without filters, it corrects the flow, it may not be the switch (still *could* be)...then test again with clean filters. If the low flow persists with clean filters, I would suspect the switch.

The hard part is that you've had to increase "every few days." This point to the filter more than the switch.
 
vanellya said:
I thought it was because my salt cell was undersized for the pool size?
Click to expand...

Running your IC20 at 92% for 24 hours per day in your 13,000 gallon pool should generate 5.9ppm of FC.

At the summer peak you should not need more then 2-3ppm of FC per day in Toronto.

What do you keep your CYA at?
 

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