Need help troubleshooting/interacting with filter installer

Abnaxis

Well-known member
Jun 28, 2021
95
Indiana
Pool Size
6500
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Roughly 11.5 month ago, I got a new filter installed. The filter is Hayward model number S220T, and my pump is a Hayward VS700

Roughly 1 month ago, I added some soda ash to my pool by stirring it in a bucket and pouring it over my returns as detailed here.

Ever since then, my pool has been MURKY. All my other chemistry is normal aside from my pH, which is low because I don't want to add more soda ash at this point.

Also, the last time I actually used my pool, there was a lot of particulate stuff floating around in it, that you couldn't see that much unless you stick your head under the water with goggles on, at which point I wish I could use a vacuum on all the Crud suspended in the middle of the pool.

Also-also, whenever I backwash my filter I see a steady trickle of sand, that doesn't ever stop, in the sight-glass. The trickle goes away if I set it to "rinse," but it's not supposed to be there to begin with, yes?

So I called the company that did the filter installation since it should still be under warranty (barely), and tasked them with getting rid of the sand in the sight-glass. I figured that would be the easiest way to go about it--give them a problem with an easy diagnosis to troubleshoot so we can see when the problem goes away, and get the thing fixed.

They came out, replaced the valve head, left, and are charging me for a service call because they say that sand while back-washing is "normal."

Now I'm face-palming and wondering how to get the actual problems fixed because the pool is still murky and I'm being charged $150 for a warranty call.
 
It's not uncommon to have a small amount of sand blow out of the filter during backwash. After all, the water is pushing upwards through the sand loosening it up. But the cloudiness may be organics. Your test logs show some low FC after opening. Have you done an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test yet?
 
Also, not sure why you added the soda ash since your logs don't show an extremely low pH. TA is not recorded. But in the future, if you have a concern about the pH and TA be sure to ask us first and we can confirm the best route.
I'm very spurious about when I actually log anything. Usually it's just when I'm using pool math to calculate things-- specifically, I made the 2.0 FC reading when I left the SWG off a couple days to figure out how to set the SWG so it keeps up with UV loss. That 2.0 is add low as it's gotten this year, including when I opened.

I added soda ash because the pH was 6.8 (not logged) and it's what I had on hand. The fact that pH was doing at all meant I had lost some TA, because it's usually steady as a rock at around 7.3.

All that said, despite the chlorine never going below 2 I'm not passing the overnight test? I'm not sure how something got in there when the pool has been chlorinated the whole time? I thought the only difference between 2.0 is 3.0 is 2.0 kills microbes too slow, not that it doesn't sanitize?
 
All that said, despite the chlorine never going below 2 I'm not passing the overnight test? I'm not sure how something got in there when the pool has been chlorinated the whole time? I thought the only difference between 2.0 is 3.0 is 2.0 kills microbes too slow, not that it doesn't sanitize?
It all boils down to the FC/CYA Levels. You can see by that tool that even if your CYA was at a low or moderate level of 30-50, the FC should almost never drop below 3. If your CYA was at the recommended level of 70 for a salt pool (if SWG was working), then the FC should be even higher. If you never did an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test immediately upon opening for this year, there may have already been algae brewing and you just didn't realize it. In that case the FC will continue to fall.

Now that you have confirmed failing the OCLT, it's time to do the SLAM Process. In the future, if your pH seems to be on the low side, I would encourage using baking soda. BS is generally best all-around for helping to increase the TA and thereby also the pH.

Hope that helps.
 
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