Nature2 / Jandy PLC1400 error

PoolGate

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TFP Guide
Jun 7, 2017
9,087
Damascus, MD
Pool Size
29000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
I am getting 120 error on my LCD panel. -->120 Low current in forward direction to Cell. 1. Clean cell if necessary (see Section 6.3).2. Check DC Cord.

Cell is 2 seasons old and looks great so I do not think it is the cell. I reversed the connector at the cell and still get 120, not 121. I think this would indicate that the cell is not the issue, yes?

Also the cell never reverses. I am pretty sure the 120 error pops up when it tries. Otherwise there is no error and it always shows "forward" direction. Do I still get the full salt production even if the cell doesn't reverse? Since my cell is clean and reversing the cell is to keep scaling down, without scaling, I really don't "need" the cell to reverse right?

I have a spare cable so I will replace that and see if the error goes away.
 

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I just replaced the cable with a new one and it made no difference. Not sure what the voltage should be but it runs at "4". For now it appears to be working so I'll keep my eye on it. Not sure where I can find the power supply if that is what it turns out to be.
 
I ran my older Jandy cell with a 120 error for the entire winter last year...it produced 1/2 of the chlorine. On mine it would switch to 121 when I reversed the cable, so it was my cell. I bought a new cell and waited for the pool to warm up enough to need more than the half working cell could provide.

On yours it sounds like a circuit board or Aquapure panel connection issue.
 
I ran my older Jandy cell with a 120 error for the entire winter last year...it produced 1/2 of the chlorine. On mine it would switch to 121 when I reversed the cable, so it was my cell. I bought a new cell and waited for the pool to warm up enough to need more than the half working cell could provide.

On yours it sounds like a circuit board or Aquapure panel connection issue.

I need to do a deep dive troubleshooting on it. This weekend is pool maintenance weekend. I'll measure the voltage and see. I can get the power supply board for $300 on Amazon.
 
I took a reading at the cell and it is showing a solid 27+ volts. I think that means the cell is getting enough voltage. I can't believe this cell would be bad in just its 3rd season. But my next step is to take the cell apart and look at the plates to see if there is any obvious defects on them.

TEST VOLTAGE AT THE CELL
Turn power off.
Lift cable enough to slide test probes to the
terminals.
Touch common probe to the center terminal
and the other probe to either outside termi-
nal. Make certain cable stays in contact with
terminals.
Turn on power and wait for control to call for
chlorine production.
With the cell under full load there should be
22 to 28 VDC.
If the correct voltage is present, but the cell
is not producing chlorine, manually test the
water chemistry and salt ppm. Correct any
readings out of range. If the problem contin-
ues, replace the cord and cell.
After testing is complete, press the cable
down tightly.
 
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I've had low current issues (forward and reverse) on both my Jandy PCL1400 SWCGs that I have in place. I'd advice you check your salt level as well. I know it doesn't say it in the troubleshooting guide but, ALL of my intermittent errors seem to go away by just adding more salt to the pool and making sure its above 2800 ppm (using a Taylor salt test, not just relying on what the Jandy SWCG says the reading is).
 
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I've had low current issues (forward and reverse) on both my Jandy PCL1400 SWCGs that I have in place. I'd advice you check your salt level as well. I know it doesn't say it in the troubleshooting guide but, ALL of my intermittent errors seem to go away by just adding more salt to the pool and making sure its above 2800 ppm (using a Taylor salt test, not just relying on what the Jandy SWCG says the reading is).

Salt is 3600. Measured with the Taylor kit. It was having this issue at the end of last season as well.
 
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