Metal stain issue's I think?? Need help please

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Matt
One more thing, can I add anything just now to get rid of the Algae stain? the copper rod as far as I can tell is built in to the chamber, I can unplug it but not remove it.

I'll be going back to work and I work out of the country and I need to have something easy in place that my wife would be able to control until I can get back home. I don't want to be in the middle of something when they call me back and leave my wife with a mess and not knowing what to do.

Can I add a tablet in a floater to help chlorinate the water? would it hurt the perma- salt system if I choose to stay with it until I can get back home in a month. I respect all what your saying I just don't want to leave my wife in the middle of a mess and me gone away for a month are so.

Regards
Whitney and Connie
 
I'd get the Taylor K-2006-C (it stands for "commercial" grade). It's the same as the K-2006, but the "C" version comes with larger bottles of reagent (2oz bottles instead of the standard 0.75oz bottles). The 2006-C kit will work just fine.

As far as what you can do for the stain currently and for your wife's ease-of-use in the long run......I'm not sure. Leaving your pool for a month is not optimal and I fear trying anything new right off the bat will only create a mess which is not something you want to leave your wife with. There's nothing you can do "quickly" in the short term to get rid of the stains. I'm tempted just to say leave it alone and keep doing what you've been doing until you can come home again and work on converting the pool over to chlorine for good. Getting rid of the Perma-Salt system is going to take some PVC work to cut it out since the copper rods are not removable. That's not something you want to do in a rush and leave to your wife with possible leaks to deal with.

I don't know...I'm out of any good options. Another month on Perma-salt (if you can keep the copper off) isn't going to hurt but your wife will need to dose the pool with some form of chlorine sanitizer if the perm-salt system doesn't already do that. The stains are not really stains, I'm pretty sure they're patches of algae. So all you can do is try to shock the pool with what the Perma-Salt people have told you to do and see if that helps.

Hopefully others can chime in with some good ideas.
 
W&C, I would simply like to commend you for listening and corresponding so well with Matt and Casey as they walk you through the options. As pool owners, we have ALL been in your shoes, and felt somewhat intimidated by any change in pool management. I guarantee that once you have the K-2006C in your hands, and see how easy it is to test the water on your own, you'll wonder why you never did it before. I also agree with Matt that the stains (from whatever source) should not be such a distraction as to overwhelm you two before your departure. Everything will be there when you return ... to include the K-2006C. :) THAT's when the real progress can begin.

For now, you could simply try to maintain a reasonable FC level using just regular liquid bleach (generic is fine). Plain bleach - no scented or splashless kinds. Also, with a very simply pH tester from Wal-Mart, maintain pH while you are away and everything will be there when you get back .... to include TFP. :)
 
We really need your test kit first so we can know exactly where we need to have your FC :)

check out the links in my signature so you have an idea of what you can do when you get your kit..

I am very happy you both are looking forward to this, once you start you will love it :)
 
cowboycasey said:
We really need your test kit first so we can know exactly where we need to have your FC :)

check out the links in my signature so you have an idea of what you can do when you get your kit..

I am very happy you both are looking forward to this, once you start you will love it :)
Click to expand...

Cowboy,
Just received my test kit yesterday. looks like I now have enough things to test a water treatment plant lol. I'm a little nervous but at the same time excited to start learning and managing my own pool.
I also want to think everyone for all the information in pool school,test kits, pool math, pool chem and everything else, I'm already starting to learn more.

OK now what??

Regards
Whitney and Connie
 
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Outstanding! :goodjob: Please make sure to add the kit you got to your signature for future reference. Now is where you run the full battery of tests and post them here for us as follows:
FC
CC
CYA
pH
TA
CH

From there, we can get very specific about treatment suggestions to help you have a trouble-free pool. If you get stuck on a particular test, review the information on the Extended Test Kit Directions page and/or let us know if you need help.
 
Texas Splash said:
Outstanding! :goodjob: Please make sure to add the kit you got to your signature for future reference. Now is where you run the full battery of tests and post them here for us as follows:
FC
CC
CYA
pH
TA
CH

From there, we can get very specific about treatment suggestions to help you have a trouble-free pool. If you get stuck on a particular test, review the information on the Extended Test Kit Directions page and/or let us know if you need help.
Click to expand...

According to Taylors kit
FC/CC test to be checked first, I know this sounds crazy but I'm not sure which line to fill it to.
If I go by the taylor kit? it says for 1 drop = 0.2 PPM use line 25 mL, for 1 drop = 0.5 PPM use line 10 mL so which should I use?

It then says to use the R-0871 dropwise (what ever that means) until color turns pink and then other items after that. I think where I'm getting lost is with the kit is going to have me do a FC & CC test?

I'm reading on the TFP extended test kit page that I should use R0600 but on the taylor test kit it don't mention using the R0600 for the FC/CC test, seems the R-0006 is for the base demand test? The Taylor kit only mentions using R-0870, R-0003 in a seven step process for the FC/CC test are am I'm missing something

On the TFP extended page for PH test is says to use R-0014 but the taylor kit says to use R-0004 ?

Regards
Whitney and Connie
 
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Use the 10ml sample. Add one heaping scoop of powder and mix. It should be pink, if not, there's no chlorine. If pink, start adding the R-0871 drops until it turns clear. Multiply that number by "0.5" - basically cut in half. So 18 drops would be an FC of 9. :)
 

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OK, I have done this and there is no color, it's still clear so that's telling me we have no chlorine at all?

Now I'm being told that my perma salt system uses copper & silver ions to produce a Non chlorine., which to me sounds unsafe to be swimming in.

Here is what there web site says and I use this quote from permasalt web site.

The Perma Salt System uses a natural synergy for a holistic
approach to water maintenance. Using a combination of
synergistic technologies, it is the only cost effective, every
2 week program with algae free results on the market
today.

The system chamber disperses natural minerals into the water including copper and silver, that serve as natural algaecides. By simply adjusting the dial, the natural mineral levels can be modified and maintained to their optimal levels.

For Preparate: Preparate is the initial treatment used to prepare the water for the Perma Salt System. Preparate is a Sodium based Salt that is enhanced with not only Borates, but also metal removers and cyanuric acid. The Sodium Salts provide a medium through which the Perma Salt minerals may disperse. The metal removers eliminate counter-productive metals found in the normal water supply. By eliminating these interfering metals, the natural minerals produced by the Perma Salt Chamber will be more effective. The cyanuric acid, which works in conjunction with Activate, prevents chlorine loss due to sunlight. Borates remove Carbon Dioxide from the water. All plant based life, such as algae, requires Carbon Dioxide to live and by removing it, algae cannot grow while the natural minerals are built up to the desired levels. By adding Preparate at the beginning of every season we are able to keep all of the other chemical levels to a minimum, thus simplifying a very effective process.Activate: Shocking a swimming pool is always necessary. By an effective use of natural minerals and the start up “kit”, Preparate, it is only necessary to shock every other week. Activate combines both, DiChlor and Oxone.DiChlor is a very strong, fast acting, but short-lived bacteria-stat. Oxone is an extremely powerful oxidizing agent that strips away chloramines and other contaminants killed by Dichlor. These two products are the most widely used shocks available on the market, but Activate uniquely blends these two chemicals together for maximum effectiveness. Adding Activate to the swimming pool twice a month makes pool maintenance less time consuming.
Klairate: Klairate is a natural enzyme water clarifier. A common cause of water cloudiness and scum lines on swimming pools are tanning oils and lotions. As opposed to coagulate clarifiers that may clog the filter, natural enzymes attack and eliminate oils and other contaminants in the water to maintain water clarity while minimizing filter maintenance. Add Klairate every other week and watch the pool sparkle!

Replacing The Chamber: When the "chamber" light comes on, it is time to replace your chamber. A number of factors will determine the life expectancy of the chamber such as pool size, weather, and usage. On average, the chamber will last approximately one season on most pools.


The Perma Salt System offers such advanced technology that it is truly a low maintenance system; set the dial, relax and enjoy your pool! Just remember to test your water weekly. The most important thing to keep in mind is that the Perma Salt System is easy to use and safe for kids, pets, your swimming pool, AND THE PLANET!

Keep it Blue- Do it Green!

Now something I can't figure out, They have me shocking every week and they have said nothing else about adding anything as per permasalt recommendation.

 
YAY, we have a test kit :)

You ordered the K-2006 so just follow the instructions in the box, they are almost the same as the TF100

FC You want the FAS-DPD test, three tests below (you were looking at the OTO test)

Dropwise = one drop at a time just in less words :)

PH: You have the bigger 44ml tester so you do this: 5 drops of R-0004 when using the larger 44 ml round test cell.

- - - Updated - - -

ok, no chlorine... when you added the powder the water stayed clear, correct

post up the rest of the test numbers so we can see where to go from here
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Doesn't matter.

Using the 25mL sample will use more drops of titrant. Accuracy is better but you sacrifice more of your titrant to get it.
Click to expand...


TA - Total Alkalinity it took 17 drops to turn from green to red x 10 = 160 if you don't count the last drop. So I think this is telling me that the TA is to high?

I'm going to retest my FC/CC to be sure it get the same reading and then I'll be checking my PH, CH and CYA.

Regards
 
I'll :bump: this for you in hopes Casey sees it soon. But I would first have to ask ...... did you do the CYA test? That's extremely important for us so we know what your FC "should" be.

And when testing FC, remember to do as I mentioned above:
Use the 10ml sample. Add one heaping scoop of powder and mix. It should be pink, if not, there's no chlorine. If pink, start adding the R-0871 drops until it turns clear. Multiply that number by "0.5" - basically cut in half. So 18 drops would be an FC of 9.
Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

If you're saying that only 1 drop changed it from very light pink to clear ... yeah, your FC is very low for sure. But we need to know your CYA too. :)
 

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