Maintaining chemicals with pool leak
- Thread starter water0125
- Start date
After adding about 6lbs of Chlorox hardness increaser, my CH went from 175 to 200. Thinking that I should add another 12 lbs to bring it up another 50. Thoughts?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,817
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Add 6 lbs and see what you get and then you can add another 6 if necessary. There is no rush.
Scratch that — just checked pool and it’s down again. So, who knows?! Need help with chemicals anyway.
I just did a full set of tests (well, PH and salt are readouts from my system).
CH is still low. Thinking about adding 4lbs of ch increaser.
Cya is still low. Thinking about adding maybe 1/2 gallon of liquid conditioner.
Fc is high. I think I gotta ride that out. Not sure how or why that happened.
TA is high. Not sure how or why that happened. The suggestion in app is to lower ph and aerate. I’ll read more about that.
Ph is currently in range, but it’s going out of range pretty regularly. Is there some chemical interaction that’s pushes it out of range. Over 8 and the acid pump stops working, so I’ve been manually adding acid every week.
Thanks y’all!!
Last edited:
The poolmath link is still broken after the system updates. Please share the #s.
And shake the bejeezus out of the CYA jug. The goods clump up on the bottom and you pour mostly water until the end. Then you get way too much.
And shake the bejeezus out of the CYA jug. The goods clump up on the bottom and you pour mostly water until the end. Then you get way too much.
Haha! I definitely shook the CYA jug last time and then rinsed it with water to get the good stuff!
FC: 9
CC: 0.5
PH: 7.6
TA: 110
CH: 225
CYA: 40
Salt: 3650
FC: 9
CC: 0.5
PH: 7.6
TA: 110
CH: 225
CYA: 40
Salt: 3650
Perfect. It'll end up about 270 and then road test that. Maybe it increases on its own from fill water, maybe the rain kinda balances it and we add more down the road once proven.
110 will come down on its own as you keep PH a 7. If you're impatient, maintain a low 7. If you are patient, maintain a high 7.
At 60 or 70, maintain a high 7.
70 is a reasonable target because it will be hot by you soon enough. But never raise CYA significantly without an overnight test.
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
SLAM at 40 CYA is 16
SLAM at 70 CYA is 28.
You want to know you won't need to slam *before* it's too late.
The TA pulls it up a bit, and also aiming for low or mid 7s. We've found that a 7.8 with a 60 TA reduces the frequency for needed doses.
It'll get better with those two tweaks.
Hi Y’all! Need to understand the different selections on a pool valve toggle switch.
I’ve had a leak on my pool. The leak detection guy has been here several times. I know that one time he toggled this switch to neutral when he was working on the pool.
He was here again today. Found the leak. He left. The spa lost a lot of water. Figured that he turned something off and forgot to turn it back on.
Checked around a bit and remembered this toggle switch. It was on neutral again. I switched it to “on1”. The valve above the switch turned and the spa started filling.
Here’s my question — what’s the difference between “on1” and “on2?” Thanks!
I’ve had a leak on my pool. The leak detection guy has been here several times. I know that one time he toggled this switch to neutral when he was working on the pool.
He was here again today. Found the leak. He left. The spa lost a lot of water. Figured that he turned something off and forgot to turn it back on.
Checked around a bit and remembered this toggle switch. It was on neutral again. I switched it to “on1”. The valve above the switch turned and the spa started filling.
Here’s my question — what’s the difference between “on1” and “on2?” Thanks!
Attachments
DrewLG
Gold Supporter
Your automation can tell the valve to turn to either Position A or Position B.
ON1: The valve turns clockwise when told to move to Position A, counterclockwise when told to move to Position B.
ON2: The valve turns counterclockwise when told to move to Position A, clockwise when told to move to Position B.
OFF: The valve won't turn in either direction.
The easiest way to set the switches correctly is to put your automation in Spillover mode. The Suction valve should be pulling water from the pool; if it isn't, toggle its switch. The Return valve should be returning water to the spa; if it isn't, toggle its switch.
ON1: The valve turns clockwise when told to move to Position A, counterclockwise when told to move to Position B.
ON2: The valve turns counterclockwise when told to move to Position A, clockwise when told to move to Position B.
OFF: The valve won't turn in either direction.
The easiest way to set the switches correctly is to put your automation in Spillover mode. The Suction valve should be pulling water from the pool; if it isn't, toggle its switch. The Return valve should be returning water to the spa; if it isn't, toggle its switch.
Natalie,
As noted above, the toggle switch just moves the valve from one stop to the other stop. Usually 180 degrees..
I might add that the switch is there so that you can initially set the valve to the correct position. This is because the automation has no idea what position the valve is in. There is no feedback to tell the automation what position the valve is in... it just 'assumes' it is correct. When the automation is first set up, the tech will set the toggle switch so that the valve is in the correct position.
In theory, you should never have to move the toggle switch again.
Thanks,
Jim R.
As noted above, the toggle switch just moves the valve from one stop to the other stop. Usually 180 degrees..
I might add that the switch is there so that you can initially set the valve to the correct position. This is because the automation has no idea what position the valve is in. There is no feedback to tell the automation what position the valve is in... it just 'assumes' it is correct. When the automation is first set up, the tech will set the toggle switch so that the valve is in the correct position.
In theory, you should never have to move the toggle switch again.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Thank you Drew and Jim for your thorough explanations!! I think that I chose the correct selection since the valve turned positions and started filling the spa. Yay!
Natalie,
Well, you had a 50/50 chance to get it right...
Good job.
Jim R.
Well, you had a 50/50 chance to get it right...
Good job.
Jim R.
Hi Y’all! Think that the leak on my pool has finally been identified — the back flow valve.
I’ve ordered a whole new assembly. I know that I could have just ordered the internal parts, but I’ve never done this type of work and thought the whole assembly would be easiest.
I’ve looked at YouTube, but haven’t found any exact videos on replacing this assembly. If anyone has suggestions on what to search that would be similar, please let me know.
I think that there is lube needed. I’d like to get all my supplies ordered, so I can be ready. Suggestions on brand or type?
Thank you!!
Pentair 263080 Backwash Valve - PoolSupply4Less
The Pentair 263080 valve. Less restriction when back washing and more flow will keep you pool looking great. Free shipping nationwide.
www.poolsupply4less.com
I’ve ordered a whole new assembly. I know that I could have just ordered the internal parts, but I’ve never done this type of work and thought the whole assembly would be easiest.
I’ve looked at YouTube, but haven’t found any exact videos on replacing this assembly. If anyone has suggestions on what to search that would be similar, please let me know.
I think that there is lube needed. I’d like to get all my supplies ordered, so I can be ready. Suggestions on brand or type?
Thank you!!
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,817
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
With the pool leak detection, some settings are still wrong on my pool. I have my pool builder coming on Monday to help me, but in the interim, my fountain is not circulating water. The water is green and murky.
I’m uncertain if I should use a bucket to empty it or try to slowly mix it with pool water for the next few days. Thoughts?
I’m uncertain if I should use a bucket to empty it or try to slowly mix it with pool water for the next few days. Thoughts?