Lost 3" of Water Overnight...

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lightingguy said:
Your leak is so bizarre. How does a leak big enough to drain an entire pool just stop?
Click to expand...

Could it have been due to a siphon effect with that pipe that is used for draining water behind the liner? Depending on how the jandy valve was turned maybe?

I'd put a separate valve on that one too if you didn't already when you added the valves to your pool suction lines.
 
carlscan26 said:
lightingguy said:
Your leak is so bizarre. How does a leak big enough to drain an entire pool just stop?
Click to expand...

Could it have been due to a siphon effect with that pipe that is used for draining water behind the liner? Depending on how the jandy valve was turned maybe?

I'd put a separate valve on that one too if you didn't already when you added the valves to your pool suction lines.
Click to expand...

It shouldn't have been. I thought about that too, but once it started losing water I closed that valve so that no water would be going to the pump, unless it left the connection between the skimmers/main to the drain pipe open and siphoned water that way?? That would be the only way that could have happened. I don't know how the valve looks when closed, maybe someone can enlighten us on whether that could be the case.
 
SPKNout4CHRIST said:
carlscan26 said:
lightingguy said:
Your leak is so bizarre. How does a leak big enough to drain an entire pool just stop?
Click to expand...

Could it have been due to a siphon effect with that pipe that is used for draining water behind the liner? Depending on how the jandy valve was turned maybe?

I'd put a separate valve on that one too if you didn't already when you added the valves to your pool suction lines.
Click to expand...

It shouldn't have been. I thought about that too, but once it started losing water I closed that valve so that no water would be going to the pump, unless it left the connection between the skimmers/main to the drain pipe open and siphoned water that way?? That would be the only way that could have happened. I don't know how the valve looks when closed, maybe someone can enlighten us on whether that could be the case.
Click to expand...

That's what I was trying to suggest...I think if you close the valve to the pump the other lines are still connected. If that is the case then you've solved this with the individual valves - did you put one on the drain pipe too?
 
That could very well be it. I did not put a valve on it when we done the others, but have left the jandy valve in the position so that that pipe stays closed. I do not adjust that valve anymore, just the three individual ones when I am vacuuming.
 
Typically with those Jandy valves the gate is the opposite direction of the handle. So if the handle is swung to the left it blocks the pipe on the right (so the pump and left pipe are connected).

When the handle is facing the pump (as in the pic on the 1st page) all 3 of those pipes would be open to each other - the gate is on the back wall of the valve.

If you were bored - you could unscrew the top plate on that jandy valve and look at the set up. They are meant to be serviceable that way. Keep in mind though - if the valve is old it is possible the o-rings in the valve are brittle so taking it apart could cause it to develop a leak. Replacing the o-rings would fix that.
 
lightingguy said:
Typically with those Jandy valves the gate is the opposite direction of the handle. So if the handle is swung to the left it blocks the pipe on the right (so the pump and left pipe are connected).

When the handle is facing the pump (as in the pic on the 1st page) all 3 of those pipes would be open to each other - the gate is on the back wall of the valve.

If you were bored - you could unscrew the top plate on that jandy valve and look at the set up. They are meant to be serviceable that way. Keep in mind though - if the valve is old it is possible the o-rings in the valve are brittle so taking it apart could cause it to develop a leak. Replacing the o-rings would fix that.
Click to expand...

I will have to check that out. The handle was turned halfway between towards the pump and the three pipes when I started losing water. Once I noticed it was losing water, I moved it so that the handle was facing away from the pump and left it like that.

I have all of the chemicals that I should need to get my numbers right. I put in some bleach last night to get my FC up and it was 5.5 this morning with 0 CC. I will be putting in salt and the stabilizer today and will hopefully be able to start the SWG by tomorrow evening/night.
 
Nice - congrats.

I remember you mentioned you had spun the handle away from the pump. That's a little strange since all the jandy valves I have seen have little stops on them that keep them from closing off the pump.

So does your valve have 360* of motion? You can continually spin it around and around?
 
I cannot remember exactly how it turns. I think it had a "stop" on it at some point when turning, but I could unscrew the knob on top and lift up on the handle and turn it past that point. I am not 100% sure about that, but I can check it tomorrow to see how exactly it does turn.

I added my salt and brushed it once before the bottom fell out of the sky! I have left the pump running and will do so over the next couple of days as instructed to allow the salt to dissolve and disperse through the pool. Since I added the salt around 6PM today, should I be able to turn on my SWG about that time tomorrow evening? Thanks!!

Here is a picture of the pool a couple of days ago after vacuuming it!! Looks A LOT different than it did about 3 or 4 weeks ago thanks to everyone here!!!!! :wink:

[attachment=0:3qs1xty5]IMAG0152.jpg[/attachment:3qs1xty5]
 

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Do I need to put the stabilizer in a sock and in the skimmer or can I put the stabilizer directly in the skimmer basket? I think I read on here somewhere that I could add directly to the skimmer as long as I do not backwash for a week. Is that correct? Thanks!
 
Yes, you can add CYA directly to the skimmer as long as you do not backwash/clean the filter for a week. Remember to pour very slowly, or more likely very very slowly, so you don't block off the water flow. It is best to run the pump for 24 hours after adding CYA this way.
 
I have added some CYA and am waiting the 1 week to test that again. I will be adding the borax along with the acid in the next couple of days when I have enough time without feeling rushed.

I have added salt and the SWG is producing chlorine! I guess over the next few days I need to check the FC to adjust the ouput control? I have it on 81% now, but I am not sure if that is too high. The FC before it started to produce sanitizer was 6. Is this a good number to start at? Also, how often should I check the FC and how much should I adjust the output each time?

The pool temp yesturday was 71 so I am getting close to just jumping in, even though I am sure it will be a brief amount of time before jumping back out!
 
Check the FC level once a day at the start. When it settles down to a more or less consistent level switch to testing/adjusting once every two days, and when you don't need to adjust the SWG for a couple of times in a row you can switch to testing FC once a week.

The required percentage setting on the SWG will go down fairly rapidly as the CYA level comes up. Right at first the SWG may or may not be able to keep up.

How far you adjust the SWG percentage depends on how far off the FC level is from your goal level. You need to experiment a little
 
zea3 said:
Check your FC every day for now. At 81% your FC should rise, so keep an eye on it. What was your target ppm for the CYA?
Click to expand...

I added enough CYA (8lbs) to bring it up to 30ppm. I have 8lbs more to add once I check it in a week (I believe that is what I was supposed to do for now).

Is there a way for me to test for metals? I don't believe I would have any since I didn't before adding water, but I am not sure about the tap water contents.
 
There are test kits for testing metals levels, but they are a little bit expensive. Most people settle for getting a pool store to do the metals test.

If you have municipal water you can usually get a water test report from the water company.

My default is to assume that there aren't metals until there is a problem, except with fresh plaster where making a mistake is too expensive.
 
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