Looking for a way to control heater remotely

I don't know of any systems that can read and use the heater's internal thermostat for automation. You would need to install a temp probe for remote temp control, which really isn't that difficult. Here's a link that shows my install.


I use a Sonoff TH-16 with temp probe to monitor temps and control my Pentair heater. Sonoff replaced the TH-16 with a better unit that now provides dry contacts for connection to the fireman's switch. It's controlled by the eWeLink app which is compatible with Alexa/Google Home apps. It looks like you need to order the probe separately. Here is the updated unit:

https://www.amazon.com/SONOFF-Origin-Temperature-Humidity-Monitoring/dp/B0B5GM1LTG?th=1
 
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I don't know of any systems that can read and use the heater's internal thermostat for automation. You would need to install a temp probe for remote temp control, which really isn't that difficult. Here's a link that shows my install.


I use a Sonoff TH-16 with temp probe to monitor temps and control my Pentair heater. Sonoff replaced the TH-16 with a better unit that now provides dry contacts for connection to the fireman's switch. It's controlled by the eWeLink app which is compatible with Alexa/Google Home apps. It looks like you need to order the probe separately. Here is the updated unit:

https://www.amazon.com/SONOFF-Origin-Temperature-Humidity-Monitoring/dp/B0B5GM1LTG?th=1
So you're not controlling the temperature per se, you're just power cycling the heater? This would also work for me. It's going into my home that's going to be up for short term rental, last thing I need is to have my pool at 90 degrees for months at a time.
 
I have an older Hayward and wish I could do the same thing. I did find a kit on ebay that consisted on a water temp sensor and a control module but couldn't find a lot of information on it,
My issue is mine has a wide tolerance so 95 might be between 92 and 99 which is a a big swing.
If I could set it at 98 and it stayed at 98 I would be good :)
 
The Sonoff is connected to the fireman's switch in the heater and is designed to simply interrupt the call for heat. After installing the relay switch, the thermostat is set to the highest setting on the heater's control panel, signaling a call for heat. That allows the Sonoff switch to control heat settings by opening and closing the fireman's switch. You can always set heater's thermostat to a lower setting to set a maximum temp. The Sonoff switch can't override the heater's setting.

Check your heater's owners manual to ensure the ability to connect automation to the fireman's switch. This article probably explains it much better than I can...

 
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The Sonoff is connected to the fireman's switch in the heater and is designed to simply interrupt the call for heat. After installing the relay switch, the thermostat is set to the highest setting on the heater's control panel, signaling a call for heat. That allows the Sonoff switch to control heat settings by opening and closing the fireman's switch. You can always set heater's thermostat to a lower setting to set a maximum temp. The Sonoff switch can't override the heater's setting.

Check your heater's owners manual to ensure the ability to connect automation to the fireman's switch. This article probably explains it much better than I can...

I will look into doing that. Just be nice to turn it on and off without getting in and out of the hot tub

I debated upgrading my heater but I paid $1750 in 2014 and the new model is $3650 😱
 
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The Sonoff is connected to the fireman's switch in the heater and is designed to simply interrupt the call for heat. After installing the relay switch, the thermostat is set to the highest setting on the heater's control panel, signaling a call for heat. That allows the Sonoff switch to control heat settings by opening and closing the fireman's switch. You can always set heater's thermostat to a lower setting to set a maximum temp. The Sonoff switch can't override the heater's setting.

Check your heater's owners manual to ensure the ability to connect automation to the fireman's switch. This article probably explains it much better than I can...

found the following video for my heater and confirm that I have the 7 pin remote harness.

So with a dry contact such as a Sonoff or a Zwave model, I should be able to use the existing remote control harness. from experience and the instruction, the blue wire is the 24v and the stripe wires is to control pool and spool? Sounds about right?

In this photo you see that sticker about the fireman's switch but you can also see the bare black stripe, orange stripe and the blue wire for a remote control.

I found a sticker regarding the firemen's switch but in my case I can ignore that? 20230402_181259.jpg
 
I've successfully integrated the Sonoff THR316D to control the Raypak heater. This is much simplier than it appears to be. Wish I did this years ago.

I'm using the "remote" method at the moment which just triggers the burner on and off. I believe by using the "fireman's switch" method it cuts power to the board all together and just turn the whole thing on and off. Is there a prefered method using one over the other?

I can see the enegy saving aspect when using the fireman's switch but it's probably so small that it's not even worth the effort.
 

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I'm glad you got it working. With Pentair, the fireman's switch just controls the call for heat. It allows the blower to continue to run to evacuate the system. It sounds like yours is doing the same the way you have it set up.
 
Cool I'll just keep it the way it is then. I disconnected the internal antenna and connected a pigtail SMA connector so I can use an old Wi-Fi paddle antenna the metal case there was no way my Wi-Fi would have penetrated that metal enclosure get full bars on the sonoff20230415_111746.jpg
 

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I’ve been looking for a similar solution and we seem to have the same setup.

Did you use the dry contacts on the Sonoff to connect to the remote harness? Are you using the temp probe, or just the on/off ability?
 
I’ve been looking for a similar solution and we seem to have the same setup.

Did you use the dry contacts on the Sonoff to connect to the remote harness? Are you using the temp probe, or just the on/off ability?
Don't be an idiot like me and buy an RJ11 wire and cut it before looking. It's an RJ9 connector with 4 pins. I bought RJ9 connectors and attempted to do my own crimping but for some reason the crappy connectors on amazon refuse to make contact. I ended up order a 10ft RJ9 cable, cut it in half, solder the wires and heat shrink.
This is exactly what I bought here. You must get the THR316D with the LCD version since it's the one with dry contact. All of this can be purchase on ALi for half the cost of amazon but I did not have 3 weeks to wait.


Sensor

A PVC T that's size to your plumbing, mine was 1 1/2

Have it in home assistant in no time.

1681696479201.png
 
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Don't be an idiot like me and buy an RJ11 wire and cut it before looking. It's an RJ9 connector with 4 pins. I bought RJ9 connectors and attempted to do my own crimping but for some reason the crappy connectors on amazon refuse to make contact. I ended up order a 10ft RJ9 cable, cut it in half, solder the wires and heat shrink.
This is exactly what I bought here. You must get the THR316D with the LCD version since it's the one with dry contact. All of this can be purchase on ALi for half the cost of amazon but I did not have 3 weeks to wait.


Sensor

A PVC T that's size to your plumbing, mine was 1 1/2

Have it in home assistant in no time.

View attachment 483463
Love it. Was it the
1/2 inch ds18b20 Temperature Sensor Probe that you used? How did you add the SMA and where did you pull power for the Sonoff?

Thanks Les
 
Love it. Was it the
1/2 inch ds18b20 Temperature Sensor Probe that you used? How did you add the SMA and where did you pull power for the Sonoff?

Thanks Les
get the 50mm that's roughly 2 inches that should get the probe pass the opening.

As for power, the heater is a 110v, I don't remember the sonoff is 12v or USB but whatever it was I know i just tapped into the existing AC power inside the heater. no additional power needs to brought there if that's what you're asking