Liquidator Install Tips?

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EastKYGuy said:
Thanks Bama. Can I put the outlet side in the pump basket drain plug like I've seen suggested here before or do I get better flow by putting it on the pipes?
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For what it's worth, I put mine on the pump sump basket just because I don't like drilling holes in the equipment, and that way if I ever want to remove the LQ, then I just put the plug back in the pump, and it's as if the LQ was never installed :)

I find it works great that way, and I also plumbed the inlet side of the LQ so it goes into the drain plug from my heater, so I didn't have to drill any holes at all.
 
Liquidator is installed. I've got the bubbles out of the line now. These were taken before that. I am able to get the flow ball up to around 4.5 on the flow meter if I crank it wide open. I have it set for 2 now. How do my numbers look for controling the WS from the LQ?

FC 3
CC 0
ph 7.5
TA 80
CH 160
CYA 35 (between the two lines)

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So where did you end up buying the needle valve?

Make sure all the connections the tube is cut square and fully seated. Also you want very little bend at those connections on the suction side. Play with one of them - you should be able to bend the tube and see air bubbles appear from that junction once you bend far enough. Trace your air leak to where the bubbles start and adjust that connection first.
 
Happy to report that the LQ is doing it's job perfectly so far. I am maintaining a FC of 5 with the solar cover on during the day. I droped the ph from 7.5 to 7.2 because I've read here that a lower ph will help with the WS. So far no sign of WS build up. The tubing is turning a bit opaque, it get's about 1 - 2 hours of sunlight a day.

I added 5 gal. at start up and still haven't had to ad any more; How long are you guys/gals going before refill?
 
Bama Rambler said:
The best single thing I did was get the 1/4" Hayward needle valve to control the flow out of the LQ.
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Installed my Hayward needle valve today and it works great. So much better than the other shut-off valve I was using.

As a side note, I ordered some John Guest type connectors to fit in the needle valve to connect the tubing to, and they don't work nearly as well as the other brand that USPLASTICS sell. I took the JG connectors apart, and the O ring they use is noticeably smaller than the ones from USPLASTICS. I tried the JG ones, and they were leaking like crazy, so I took some O rings from some spare quick connects from USPLASTICS and installed them in the JG ones, and now they work well, no leaks.
 

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carlscan26 said:
Can you post a link to the non John Guest fittings on the us plastic website? All of the speedfit connectors seem to be that brand...
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After looking again at the connectors from USPLASTICS, it seems they are John Guest as well. The ones I ordered are these ones here. The only visible difference from these ones and the ones I ordered from a different place is the ones from USPLASTICS are the grey color, and the ones I bought here in Canada are white. The grey ones from USPLASTICS do have a "fatter" O ring in them than the white ones. There must be some difference in the two connectors, even though they are both JG ones... :?:

Having said all that, the grey ones from USPLASTICS do work great as the white colored ones I bought elsewhere have the thinner O ring and I found them to easily leak.
 
There are two different plastics used in the JG fittings. The grey or tan ones are Acetal, and the white ones are Polypropylene. While Acetal isn't technically suitable for chlorinated water, no one has lodged any issues about the fittings failing in pool service. I have Acetal ones and they are fine after two years of service.
 
The link does not mention the 3/8" upgrade kit is included. You can purchase those parts from Home Depot or Lowes. That is what I did when I found a lower than normal price 2 years ago. Good luck with the install.


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