Leaks and more....

Crooked_Pool

Bronze Supporter
Apr 6, 2019
17
Florida
Hello.... It’s been a while since I’ve been around and created a new account. I’m okay starting ‘a new’ since this is a ‘new to me pool’..... Came with the house... told the surface is newer... I have the TF100 and donated to the site today - I value this community. Albeit, I’m mostly a ‘taker’ of information, but it’s possible others benefit from my journey..

Pool got away from me... A leak is suspected around the skimmers kept me on the defensive most of the year. Finally, I shut the pump off and let is collect leaves. (The battle of leaves adding ‘well water’ and the leak was a vicious cycle that made the PH hard for me to rebound.)

Fast forward: drained, remover leaves. Started to take inventory of things to surface with the TFP community. I need to put decent fix in place for get pool back in service and be able to move along to other priorities. I plan to do myself.

Plumbing controls are basic.
Supply in: 3 into 1 to pump input. (Drain, skimmer1, skimmer2) (no valves/always on)

Output: 2 control valves.
Single wall eye (on off)
Dual wall air vent-turi jets (on off)

Lots or grout/mortar missing In tiles.
I’m planning on filling these assuming it me cosmetics with a quality mortar.
Q: Any recommendations? I do NOT want to remove old mortar, only go over the existing and fill failed areas.

Discovered (3) wall fittings that are filled/closed with a ‘putty like’ material.
I want to get these back in service to help the single wall eye. Water really isn’t circulating like it could... I suspect there is a good reason these are blocked, but hard for me to not get a closer look.
Q: I’ve had great success with white hydraulic cement to will floor cleaning fitting and adding a thru wall fittings for a Polaris. Is there something better to reseal these if opening these is a disaster?

I also plan to plumb this pool for a Polaris booster pump unless I can get away with a propulsion model.
Q: I loved my old 3wheel Polaris that had a booster pump. I bought a Dolphin robot and it’s a good product, just can’t handle the volume of debris... Is a booster pump the way to go?

So you know what I’m up to this weekend... Please let me know your thoughts. Adding pics now.

THANK YOU!!
 

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Trying to add these pictures...
 

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Mix up.... I’m on my phone :)
This is the crack in the wall which does not leak, or leak at the rate of the skimmer. The water level holds once it get almost below skimmer openings. I love to get these open and in service to help move the water.
 

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Hiya Crooked, welcome to TFP.

Well, you definitely have your work cut out for you!! To start, let’s get you to fill in your signature area with all your pool information. You can look at mine for a guide.

Next, take some pictures of your pool equipment pad and post those up.

It’s the weekend, so people are off doing errands and such, so hang tight and people will start to chime in. :cheers:

@bdavis466 @mas985 @PoolguyinCT @JamesW @mknauss
 
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Mix up.... I’m on my phone :)
This is the crack in the wall which does not leak, or leak at the rate of the skimmer. The water level holds once it get almost below skimmer openings. I love to get these open and in service to help move the water.
Well..... I removed the putty patch and was amazed to find nearly a tube of asphalt repair slammed in the pipe. Got that all cleaned out. Located the plumbing that supported the outlets A N D...... like a gold rush, clay flowed and when it cleared, it still had sand - pipe leak for sure. This was not leaking in the pool/or a leak that was noticeable ie the skimmers are the lowest the water will drain. I still want these active for circulation.... I hate to cut the deck and guess where the break is. I’m thinking I may approach from outside the pool.
 
First things first.. not safe to have kids in or around empty pool. That’s a serious fall onto the concrete. Perception is different, but it’s like falling off a roof onto concrete.

As for the pool, piping needs to be qualified for starters.
 
Yep, I was optimistic, but reality wins again!!! I cleaned and prepped for tomorrow...

I’m glad it was a quick let down... on the upside found an amazing product at the big box store that removes tar / asphalt from just about anything!! Oddly called Tar Remover!!!

Down side located two hollow sounding spots. I can only guess the resurfacing is failing in those spots. Not overly concerned with those spots during this express rehab to get the daily leak stopped and back in service.

Back at it tomorrow to seal up the skimmers and tackle the tile..!!
 

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Hard to give you advice because in reality this pool needs a complete overhaul. The plaster coat is your waterproofing and its failed. You also now know the returns were plugged because of leaking/broken pipes. There are many products that are bandaid for leaks but they all need prep. The voids next to skimmer will fail if the backing isn't supported. You may be able to keep stuffing hydro cement in but it sets very fast. A top coat of tube sealant would finish it and probably hold for a while. The cracks in tile grout have to be cleaned up so the old grout is clean and will bond to the new grout. Anything loose has to come out. They make attachments for dremel tools that work great for chewing out old grout and even a hand scraper made for this job works good to take a little off to make room for new grout they also have additives for bonding strength. Sooner than later you are going to have to deal with this all from the backside of pool walls and open up the deck. Skimmers loom like they need some work and you could abandon the old returns and just lay in new pipe and keep the mess to a minimum by going outside narrower areas of the deck and just cut a trench to get to pool wall and then diamond core a new return in. The old holes can be patched and covered when you get to the new plaster job. You got alot going on and this is a big job theres no easy fix here just a bandaid at best
 
I’m on board with you Jimmy!! I appreciate the feedback!!! I agree with the skimmer washout and everything you’ve said. The plumbing too...!!! Im not prepared to make the cosmetic decisions on the new deck, tile, and total redo as that ties into other projects on the property. Right now it’s a basic stamped cool deck like surface... I do plan to invest in the redo, just not this week. I’m gonna clean up the tile and gut/redo the grout and close up the gaps at the skimmer... I have cleaned the grout out. I’ll likely get a season or two out of these touch-ups... I realize the pool is below standard needs more than a homeowner’s indecisive amateur approach...!!!

The pool is on a hill. A sandy hill in Florida. Half of the pool is actually underground and the downside is above the ground with concrete wall. It’s common to have issues with sand settling that can cause years of headaches on the entire property.

Today i noticed the pool wall where I suspected the sand is entering the pressure line. I’m going to cut a 4” hole on the deck and bore scope to see if I can determine this is the actual break in the line. If yes, I’ll open the deck and repair. If not, I’ll patch that and move along....

I wish the pool was my big priority, I just gotta get it fresh for another season. The leaks at the skimmer level are what killed refilling every few days. I’ll keep this going...
 

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Sand in FLORIDA?? What is this you are saying??? LOL I so hear you on the sandy soil in so many areas on Florida!

I am going to watch this mini-habe as I am naming it. Make sure to take pics and write notes on the skimmer so we can learn from you. What words and what does not work.

That is some NASTY looking stuff you got out of there :shock: Did you have to throw your clothes out after messing with that stuff?

Kim:kim:
 
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Photo Post #3 - vertical crack through shell & tile, crack is a few inches away from rotten steel.
Your shell is failing.

Incidentally, a good boroscope will go in from the pool interior & serve you well.

Frankly, the longer this costly shell repair is delayed the more money it will cost you & lessen your chances of success.

Surely, a forum member will suggest staples.
A shells candidacy for staples can not be made from photos.

Your best bet, is to hire a qualified contractor to audit this pool & you can reconsidering your next actions.
 
Ha...LOL!!! Thanks for the relief!!! I have at least two vertical cracks. Both are 30”+and go up through the tile. Funny thing is they haven’t bothered me for 2yrs - pool has never went below skimmer.....

So.... some good-ish DIY stuff.... Went after a new Polaris; borescooe, and other goodies to toss at this mess...

I spent some time trying to navigate the plumbing with the scope. It was very handy when I drilled a single hole in the deck. Cool tool to have!!! I applied pressure to the line and KAPOW - there was the pooling of water outside the shell— I FOUND THE BREAK!!!!

Next I cut an access hole in the deck to inspect the break. And get pics for TFP... This will be a fun repair... it’s right on the shell. I can remove the old coupling or sleeve it, but it’s super close. I assume this is the only break in this line... I’ll repair and pressure test etc..

I’m not disputing the pool is shot. I agree, but trying to get a another year or two.
 

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Wow.... this was a bit of a chore?!!

I was able to removed the old fitting, clean up the stub and sleeve on the inside and outside with a coupling.

It’s done. I reworked the pipe layout 3 times. 3 trips for more fittings...!!!! I just could not settle with tension on the pipe. I understand the stress of settling, but I was trying to give a decent chance at survival. This design wasn’t my favorite, but it allowed for a stress free connection.

I’m still clearing the pipes of sand and will pressure test this weekend.

Next, the wall fittings. IMO, these fittings look like above ground vinyl pool wall fittings. More to follow on that...

Have a great weekend!!!
 

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Here is the set up... I did remove a trim ring that was held on by 4 screws. There wasn’t a gasket or eyeball. There are no visible threads and what is pictured is embedded the trim ring is off. Without threads/being slip fit are like some liner style fittings - maybe they are...

I located a Polaris stub kit, but I also need to solve for 2 other wall returns.

Does anyone recognize or have a suggestion of how I can retro-fit directional wall return fittings?
 

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