Leak in gunite pool - spa inlet

pwa2003

Gold Supporter
Oct 29, 2022
42
Tulsa, OK
Pool Size
23163
Surface
Plaster
We have a new gunite build, pool/attached spa. A bucket test verified that we have a leak, and a dye test revealed the leak is in the spa at one of the inlet jets (about 300 gallons per day). Looks like the leak is at the joint between the plaster and the plastic flange/socket of the inlet. We "red neck" fixed it with underwater duct tape (see photo) that is surprisingly is working.... and we're back to our normal "evaporation" loss, which is about 3/16". The tape fix, I assumed, eliminated the possibility of any cracks in the actual plastic. The spa inlets are different from out pool inlets that they are these translucent recessed two-piece inserts that thread into the plastic housing/socket. they have two little protruding tabs on top, presumably for a "tool" that we don't have. The tabs are about 1/4" x 1/8" high and about 1-5/8" apart center-to-center, clocked 180-degrees from each other. I can easily drain the spa water into the pool in a few minutes to get complete, dry access.

What is the preferred permanent fix for a hairline crack/gap like this? I am envisioning anything from an epoxy to a silicone to a plaster slurry to a plaster removal & repacking. Assuming it's a silicone or epoxy, what is the preferred product I should buy? I'd like something with low viscosity that can inject into the hairline crack/gap-- preferably in a small syringe that's injectable. And what is the "tool" I need to remove these rings from the spa? I could only remove one of them by hand.
 

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Since this is a new build, it should be under warranty.
What does the PB intend to do to fix the issue?
 
Yes, we cut the GC loose due to negligence and other issues. We're on our own for the fixes, but do plan to sue him if there's anything major. Inviting the GC back for "warranty work" isn't really an option.
 
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Did you get a solution? I also have a leak around one of my pool return jets. I did the dye test today and it's clearly getting sucked in from the gap. I plan to buy pool putty at the store tomorrow when it opens after the holiday.
 

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Yes, I bought the dye kit and did a simple test to reveal that was the only leak. It was just a sliver of a gap costing me an additional 250-ish gallons a day. I fixed mine over the weekend with two-part epoxy Pool Putty. I was going to give it a couple of days & re-test the dye, but the "bucket-test" now shows normal evaporation loss only. I would have preferred something more liquid I couple squirt in the gap. As it is with the putty, it's mostly a topical repair. I tried cramming some of the putty in the crack with toothpicks & a mechanics mirco-pick. I'm guessing I may have to redo it every few years or as frequently as every season
 
The crack and lack of bond would need to be all the way through the plaster & the concrete/ gunite shell. Some type of tow part epoxy will only be a band-aid. I hate to say but the spa needs to be chipped out around the leaking return fitting -- all the way through. With the pipe exposed it then needs a bond coat, maybe some rebar or steel woven in and then sealed up with new gunite/ concrete. Then the spa will need to be replastered.

This is what I would document as a pool builder then use this estimate to go after the builder.
So in my opinion the pipe was not fully filled in or sealed with gunite when the shell was shot. Or had a void in it.
Plaster on top.... is not the problem as the root cause would be a lack of concrete bond around the pipe.
My 2 cents. B
 
Thanks for the info blakeusa. In case someone is interested here is a photo after I used pool putty to plug the leak. I'm not worried that is only a temporary fix as my marcite is 19 years old and I'm currently getting bids on resurfacing.
 

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