Just Starting Pool Ownership
- Thread starter Natesroom
- Start date
Yeah but I find the other one decides you get to sleep outside by easier to manage one if that one gets more attentionNatesroom said:
Here are my first test Kit results!!!
FC - 22.5
CC - .5
TC - 23
PH - 7.3
TA - 130-140
CH - INCONCLUSIVE
CYA - 38ish
What am i looking at??
FC - 22.5
CC - .5
TC - 23
PH - 7.3
TA - 130-140
CH - INCONCLUSIVE
CYA - 38ish
What am i looking at??
hmmm...
Alkalinity is a little high, ph right on the nose (although at 22ppm FC, that could be a skewed result), and CYA right where you want it to be. FC is a little high for the CYA. In fact, let it drop to 13ppm and maintain it at that level from now on. The high chlorine you've been at is why your pool looks so great so fast but it's more than you need. Cheaper at 13ppm as well. Once the water is clear, you can run an OCLT (at shock level). Looks good, you did awesome without the test but now that you have it, you'll be fixed up proper like and KNOW you are all done very soon.
Why is CH inconclusive? Did you get a light blue result instead of real blue? Take the first value you get when it turns blue and doesn't change at all after adding another drop.
Alkalinity is a little high, ph right on the nose (although at 22ppm FC, that could be a skewed result), and CYA right where you want it to be. FC is a little high for the CYA. In fact, let it drop to 13ppm and maintain it at that level from now on. The high chlorine you've been at is why your pool looks so great so fast but it's more than you need. Cheaper at 13ppm as well. Once the water is clear, you can run an OCLT (at shock level). Looks good, you did awesome without the test but now that you have it, you'll be fixed up proper like and KNOW you are all done very soon.
Why is CH inconclusive? Did you get a light blue result instead of real blue? Take the first value you get when it turns blue and doesn't change at all after adding another drop.
What is an OCLT (at shock level)?? How do i let it drop to 13ppm
Well if that was the case the CH would be around 280-290
Well if that was the case the CH would be around 280-290
OCLT is the overnight chlorine loss test. See pool school. Basically you test the pool after the sun is off of it, and then again the next morning before the sun hits the pool. If you loose 1ppm FC or less you pass. Add nothing to the pool after your night test btw, you're looking to see what happens to the chlorine when no sun is there to eat it up.
Read the shocking information in pool school for a more detailed version. OCLT at shock level means do the OCLT at 13ppm which is your shock value for 38ppm CYA.
The chlorine will come down on it's own. Just monitor it, and when it gets to 13ppm then you go back to doing what you have been doing (adding bleach to maintain shock level) if it goes below 13ppm.
Read the shocking information in pool school for a more detailed version. OCLT at shock level means do the OCLT at 13ppm which is your shock value for 38ppm CYA.
The chlorine will come down on it's own. Just monitor it, and when it gets to 13ppm then you go back to doing what you have been doing (adding bleach to maintain shock level) if it goes below 13ppm.
Natesroom said:
Hi Natesroom,
Your test #'s are a good place to start! All of us here expected much worse with the CYA from using a feeder!
If you follow the Chlorine/CYA chart here:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
Your shock level of chlorine is 16PPM @ 40 CYA
My experience when shocking our pools in Florida because of the high heat and sun, and time to stay poolside and babysit the FC levels I would recommend to go + 3 PPM over the chart. This would be 19 PPM FC that I would maintain shock # to.
Don't ever let the FC shock value fall below 16 PPM for a speedy clean up, if you keep letting the FC fall below the Chlorine/CYA it will make the process longer and more expensive for more liquid chlorine to complete this shocking process.
The TA could be a little high, but we can lower it later after the pool has completed the shocking process and passed all 3 criteria listed in pool school.
#1)
Continue to test and keep adding liquid chlorine (I also use 10% liquid chlorine that I buy from Pinch a Penny / 5 gals under $10) as the pool calculator will have you add with the target set at 19 PPM.
#2)
Don't bother to test the PH right now as the PH test will be invalid when FC is at shock values. (usually anything over 10 PPM)
#3)
Run the filter/pump 24/7 and clean filter when pressure rises 5 LBS over a clean filter reading.
#4)
Brush and vacuum every day to help clean up the dead algae.
#5)
When you pass the shocking process, we then can address the PH when the FC drifts down back into the operating range of 3-7 PPM.
#6)
Your more than likely may need to lower the TA closer to 90 depending on how the PH behaves in YOUR pool.
(My pool was raising the PH up to 7.8 all the time with the TA @ 120, I lowered the TA down to 80 now and my PH stays pegged @ 7.5 all the time now!)
Lowering the TA is covered in pool school. (I prefer to use muriatic acid @ 31.45% from Home Depot)
This will get you started on the road to a perfect pool! The TFP way!
I now suffer from POOLSPARKLITIS!
Post any questions you have and we can help, I know it seems hard, but like with anything new, as you go along it will become a lot easier to understand.
Reading a lots of posts here at TFP has really helped me.
Chuck