This is the first year I am opening my above ground SWG 9x18 Intex with water left from last year. We drained halfway when we closed and had water delivered yesterday to fill. The water was green upon opening from the winter and just added fresh to it. Now I have 0 FC and not registering CYA. Do I have to bring my CYA up before trying to slam? I have never done this before so looking for direction. Thank You!!!
Just opened and green!
- Thread starter Kelli2
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,577
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Do the following:
1 - Lower the pH to about 7.2 if needed.
2 - Increase FC to 10 and re-test in 10 minutes. If it held at 5 or above that's good. If the FC crashed below 5, increase it again and re-test in 10 min.
3 - Only after ensuring the FC can hold for 10 minutes should you add stabilizer for a CYA goal of 30.
4. Once you add the stabilizer, increase the FC to 12 and continue the SLAM Process.
1 - Lower the pH to about 7.2 if needed.
2 - Increase FC to 10 and re-test in 10 minutes. If it held at 5 or above that's good. If the FC crashed below 5, increase it again and re-test in 10 min.
3 - Only after ensuring the FC can hold for 10 minutes should you add stabilizer for a CYA goal of 30.
4. Once you add the stabilizer, increase the FC to 12 and continue the SLAM Process.
So I purchased Muriatic Acid 31.45% and ph down to lower my ph to 7.2. When I went to the app to see which one would be better it doesn’t give me an option for the liquid at this strength only something called braum? Not sure how much to add or which would would be better, liquid or the powder?
So I added the dry acid tonight, hoping I can start adding the chlorine tomorrow and then the CYA to start SLAM. How long do you have to wait in between adding?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,577
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
If dry acid is all you have, go ahead and use it. In the future, try to use muriatic acid. It's quick & easy and mixes very fast. Dry acid has some unwanted side effects over time. If you don't start the SLAM until tomorrow, just be sure to have enough liquid chlorine on hand to do that 10-min drill and then maintain the elevated FC level of 12 as you continue into the SLAM.
I had liquid, the warning in the bottle scared me off. It said not to combine with chlorine so I thought I may have purchased the wrong thing
- Jun 24, 2021
- 8,589
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Soooo...a couple of helpful hints.
1) Dry acid, as @Texas Splash indicated is Sodium Bisulphate, which adds sulfates to the pool, which causes problem. (Yeah, I know, listed in pool math. Sometimes it is all that people have). Just avoid using it.
2) Stick with Muriatic Acid (MA) to lower your pH. Yes, it should never be combined with Liquid Chlorine, or Bleach. Bad and dangerous gasses. It does not mean don't add it to a pool with chlorine. After the Liquid Chlorine hits the water, it is no longer liquid chlorine and not a danger. Just add them at least 1/2 hour apart with the pump on and you should be A-ok.
3) There are a couple ways that the strength of MA is listed. The typical duty is 20 Degree Baume / 31.5%. Look for one or the other on the bottle and Pool Math has the typical strengths listed. So your 31.45 is 20 Degree Baume.
4) Cyanuric Acid (CYA) should be thought of differently than MA. We try to use MA and CYA to distinguish from just saying "acid." Seen a few souls confuse them and add "ACID" (actually was MA) to raise there CYA. CYA comes as "conditioner" and "stabilizer." The only difference is the form, one is granular and the other is more flake-like. Just make sure you get one that is 100% CYA. Most are.
1) Dry acid, as @Texas Splash indicated is Sodium Bisulphate, which adds sulfates to the pool, which causes problem. (Yeah, I know, listed in pool math. Sometimes it is all that people have). Just avoid using it.
2) Stick with Muriatic Acid (MA) to lower your pH. Yes, it should never be combined with Liquid Chlorine, or Bleach. Bad and dangerous gasses. It does not mean don't add it to a pool with chlorine. After the Liquid Chlorine hits the water, it is no longer liquid chlorine and not a danger. Just add them at least 1/2 hour apart with the pump on and you should be A-ok.
3) There are a couple ways that the strength of MA is listed. The typical duty is 20 Degree Baume / 31.5%. Look for one or the other on the bottle and Pool Math has the typical strengths listed. So your 31.45 is 20 Degree Baume.
4) Cyanuric Acid (CYA) should be thought of differently than MA. We try to use MA and CYA to distinguish from just saying "acid." Seen a few souls confuse them and add "ACID" (actually was MA) to raise there CYA. CYA comes as "conditioner" and "stabilizer." The only difference is the form, one is granular and the other is more flake-like. Just make sure you get one that is 100% CYA. Most are.
This is great info, thank you. If I. The morning the ph is still not low enough is it okay to add the MA this time, being that I added the dry acid already tonight?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 8,589
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Yes, absolutely. Don't be afraid of MA. Just be respectful. Use safety glasses. ALWAYS ADD MA TO WATER, not the other way around. Pour downwind both into your measuring cup (use plastic, NOT GLASS around pool) and into the pool. Pour it slowly in front of a return a foot from the wall. Have your brush ready and just brush around a bit, and the floor, after you pour so it mixes and doesn't sit on the vinyl. The pool buffering system is pretty quick, so 30 minutes or so with pump on and you should be good to test again.
Thank you guys so much for this! I will be up at 6am giving it a go!!