You want the TA at 60 with a pH of 7.8. PH rise will be much less and less acid will be needed.
The lower the TA, the higher the pH needs to be to compensate and vice versa. You can already see how the number effect one another.
Aeration does not lower TA, it raises the pH without also raising the TA (really the only way to do that). Acid lowers the pH and TA together. There is no way to lower the TA without also lowering the pH. If you can figure out a way to do that, water chemistry will be the least of your worries because you'll have more money than you can figure out how to spend.
Your white ring will disappear with a low CSI or I'll give you every dollar you've ever paid me back
CYA levels are based of sun exposure, not so much just SWGs. I know this stuff is confusing and contradictory but the recommended levels were created for a certain type of person in a certain climate which doesn't apply to all.
Thanks Brian and PoolDV, anytime you are in OC swing by for a couple cold ones.
I meant to say aeration raises PH. So I am thinking that each time I push PH down from 7.5 to 7.2 it's lowering TA a little more each time. At least that's want is seem to be doing based on the process.
I also see where your numbers of TA@ 60 and PH@ 7.8 came from, you set pool math SALT at 3500. I got my numbers based on the current salt level of 1000ppm.
So because I must be really slow on the uptake of this chemistry, when I have TA to 60PPM and [email protected], is the PH target now 7.8 vs (7.2-7.5) So I want to tightly regulate PH at 7.8 and TA at 60.
I plugged all my target numbers into pool math (after salt is added and CYA is at appropriate levels)
FC= 5
PH=7.8
TA= 60
CH=275
CYA=70
Salt=3500
CSI= -0.31
So this is the magic formula.