- Nov 29, 2015
- 639
- Pool Size
- 22000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
TFP forum is a GREAT research source for pool issues so I want to add my $0.02
I bought the house in 2017 and have maintained it myself. When I tried to get it in shape this spring I found a SWG error of HH - Meaning High Salt. Trouble is the pool leaks, so in the spring the salt level is consistently under 1000. Every year its taken about 10 bags of salt to bring it back up. We have had 3 "leak professionals" check it over the years.
Research and testing led me to replace the flow salinity sensor with one I had from last SWG cell change. No change in errors
I try to do as much myself as I can. Research led me to believe that the main board in the SWG power box was bad. I ordered what I suspected was a knock off from Amazon for $174. Was worth the gamble to me.
"E-cowlboy R0467600 Printed Circuit Board Power Interface Replacement for Zodiac Jandy Pool and Spa Power Centers" - I knew the "real ones" were over $250, but gambling I bought it, and i bought the asurion protection as well for $20.
The board installed easy. It fixed the HH error but the salt readings were off. So I tried calibrating ... Then tested Chlorine out put. = Zero.
After researching Google which often points me here, I checked the output voltage to the cell and found ZERO. Double checked all my connections and determined the knock off board was bad.
Started a return and ordered a Jandy branded one for $275
It arrived in a few days. It installed easy and generated an error of 123, no or low voltage to the cell. Also it showed Salt was at 4000pm. Which it CANT be because I had only added enough salt to get to the High 2000s or 3k. Testing showed alt at 3k.
123 supposedly can be caused by dirty cell which I hadn't checked yet. So I pulled it and did see some mild calcium that I cleaned with a wash and some mild acid. No pictures sorry.
I recalibrated DOWN to 3100 and rechecked voltage output. This one was putting out some DC voltage at the Cell and and the board BUT it was low. 4 - 6 Volts. Rechecking everything I found one of the power spade connectors on the lower right of the board was not firmly connected and when I connected that correctly. ( oops ) Im now generating about 10ppm over the base chlorine in the pool.
Notice the Knock off board has NO
printing on the PCB like the real one. The real board come with a full manual. The manual tells you to cut a jumper to change it from AP700 to AP1400 but the jumper is missing from all 3 boards. Seems many older working PCBs have the coating peeling on the Relay in lower right.
Hope this helps
I bought the house in 2017 and have maintained it myself. When I tried to get it in shape this spring I found a SWG error of HH - Meaning High Salt. Trouble is the pool leaks, so in the spring the salt level is consistently under 1000. Every year its taken about 10 bags of salt to bring it back up. We have had 3 "leak professionals" check it over the years.
Research and testing led me to replace the flow salinity sensor with one I had from last SWG cell change. No change in errors
I try to do as much myself as I can. Research led me to believe that the main board in the SWG power box was bad. I ordered what I suspected was a knock off from Amazon for $174. Was worth the gamble to me.
"E-cowlboy R0467600 Printed Circuit Board Power Interface Replacement for Zodiac Jandy Pool and Spa Power Centers" - I knew the "real ones" were over $250, but gambling I bought it, and i bought the asurion protection as well for $20.
The board installed easy. It fixed the HH error but the salt readings were off. So I tried calibrating ... Then tested Chlorine out put. = Zero.
After researching Google which often points me here, I checked the output voltage to the cell and found ZERO. Double checked all my connections and determined the knock off board was bad.
Started a return and ordered a Jandy branded one for $275
It arrived in a few days. It installed easy and generated an error of 123, no or low voltage to the cell. Also it showed Salt was at 4000pm. Which it CANT be because I had only added enough salt to get to the High 2000s or 3k. Testing showed alt at 3k.
123 supposedly can be caused by dirty cell which I hadn't checked yet. So I pulled it and did see some mild calcium that I cleaned with a wash and some mild acid. No pictures sorry.
I recalibrated DOWN to 3100 and rechecked voltage output. This one was putting out some DC voltage at the Cell and and the board BUT it was low. 4 - 6 Volts. Rechecking everything I found one of the power spade connectors on the lower right of the board was not firmly connected and when I connected that correctly. ( oops ) Im now generating about 10ppm over the base chlorine in the pool.
Notice the Knock off board has NO
printing on the PCB like the real one. The real board come with a full manual. The manual tells you to cut a jumper to change it from AP700 to AP1400 but the jumper is missing from all 3 boards. Seems many older working PCBs have the coating peeling on the Relay in lower right. Hope this helps
