Jandy PLC-1400 high chlorine level

InvaderZim

0
Bronze Supporter
Apr 13, 2008
74
Austin, TX
I have a 26,000 gallon salt water pool, Jandy PLC-1400 salt cell, and keep the salt level at about 3000ppm.

I normally keep the SWG set to 75% and that gets me a total chlorine level of 3-5. However, several months ago, I replaced the Jandy stealth pump with a Jandy e-Pump and a Jandy sand filter -- my previous DE filter developed a crack in the Texas freeze last year and our pool service company said DE filters are backordered for 6 months.

This is all working well, but I noticed that the SWG is making far more chlorine than it has in the past, especially with the fall drop in water temperature. Several weeks ago, I noticed the chlorine level was through the roof (over 10ppm) so I lowered the generator to 25% and it was still between 5 and 10ppm. I have now lowered it to 15% and it's finally coming in about 5%.

It never behaved this way before -- I'd lower it to 50% for the winter and that was fine. The pump runs about 7 hours a day.

The other change from last year is we took out two giant Lacebark Elm trees that died in the Texas snowmageddon. They shaded the pool, so now the pool gets a lot of direct sun and much less stuff falls into it in autumn although that usually didn't get bad until mid-December. I don't recall ever seeing a chlorine level this high. CA level is fine according to the test strips.

Could the new ePump and filter somehow have made the SWG that much more more efficient? The cell is about a year old and it's due for a cleaning. Also, does scale build up only when it's running, or is that a function of the salt water passing through it?
 
The SWCG only creates chlorine based on your settings. The % generation you set and how long you run the pump with the SWCG enabled.

Are you running the pump longer?

A SWCG will only build up scale in it when it is activated, not by just running water through it. And if your pool chemistry is correct, the SWCG should not build up scale in it.
 
Thanks! We're not running the pump longer. I was just wondering whether changing to an e-pump with lower RPMs or a sand filter might change the performance of the SWG. The water temp is still in the 60s. I do descale the SWG every year or so (and it's due now). I was just wondering why it suddenly seems so much more efficient at making chlorine -- I don't recall ever having it set below 40% even in the winter, and 15% seems to get me to about 5ppm.
 
Between 5 and 10ppm? Interesting because the test kits all seem to say 3-5ppm. CYA is in range.

CYA is in what range?

See...

 
CYA was about 80 the last time I had it checked at Leslies (admittedly a year ago), and it's the OK range, according to the test strips I use. I'll take a bottle of water to Leslies the next time I head up that way for testing, but I'm not sure I 100% trust their equipment. The last time they told me my salt level was 2300ppm when my chlorine generator says 3100 and they said something about their equipment measuring salt in a different way.
 
CYA was about 80 the last time I had it checked at Leslies (admittedly a year ago), and it's the OK range, according to the test strips I use.

If your CYA is still at 80 then the recommended target FC is 6. Your FC of 5-10 is perfect for that.

However, using test strips and/or Leslies testing you really don;t know what your real water chemistry is. Test strips are guess strips and unreliable. A CYA test from a year ago is now fiction.

Get your own test kit. Either the Taylor K-1006C or TF-100 to accurately know your water chemistry. Eventually your test strips and Leslie testing will bite you.

I'll take a bottle of water to Leslies the next time I head up that way for testing, but I'm not sure I 100% trust their equipment. The last time they told me my salt level was 2300ppm when my chlorine generator says 3100 and they said something about their equipment measuring salt in a different way.

So why test your water there is you already have had bad experiences?
 
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