Jandy JXi heater with Hayward Omnihub mystery

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DeeCiple said:
New remote cable did not help. Last ditch effort is to load the Omnihub defaults and start from scratch. But before I do this, can someone confirm whether if I cannot get the system working properly after loading the defaults and I restore it from a saved config (I backed up my config to USB) will it restore everything as it was before I loaded the defaults? Is there anything that is not saved with the backed up config?
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FWIW, loading the defaults and starting from scratch did not help, But the OmniHub does retain all of the saved configs. I was able to configure the system from scratch so I didn't need to restore any of the backed up configs but they were not erased.
 
Hi Poolbreh,

Yep, I did test the continuity of the lvr1 after it closed to see if it opens again and it does open again once the set point is below the water temp.

Here is an interesting find. While I was testing again today, I discovered that even if the COM lead on the Jandy heater IS NOT CONNECTED and you touch any of the leads from the LVR1 on the OmniHub to the POOL lead on the Jandy, it will turn on the heater. HOW CAN THAT BE WHEN THE COM IS NOT EVEN CONNECTED TO ANYTHING TO COMPLETE THE CIRCUIT?

Would that indicate a fault in the Jandy?

Aaaaargh!!!
:)
 
It certainly sounds like the fault is on the heater side. I would pull the low volt connector on the heater and clean. I would also inspect the board for any frogs or insects that could be causing any intermittent short.
 
DeeCiple said:
Hi folks,

First time poster :)

I have a real mystery that I am hoping I can find a solution to. I have a Jandy JXi series heater connected to a Hayward Omnihub through the 2 wire (fireman's switch) for remote control. AFAIK, Everything is set according to the manufacturer's instructions:

  • On Jandy, 2 wire connected to POOL + COM contacts
  • On Jandy, RTSTAT is set and thermostat set to 104 degrees
  • On Hayward 2 wire connected to LVR1 (low voltage relay)
  • On Hayward, heater is programmed to the LVR1

The problem I am having is that regardless of the setting of the Omnihub, the heater is always on and heating. Here are some of my diagnostic efforts:

  • Tested remote wire for shorts with a multi-meter
  • Connected multi-meter (in continuity mode) to Omnihub to verify contact closing/opening properly (set point below water temp == contact open; set point above water temp == contact closed) PASSED.
  • Manually opened and closed the circuit on the Jandy (in RTSTAT mode, connected COM to POOL contacts and heater came on; disconnected COM from POOL contacts and heater turned off) PASSED.

If I had any hair left I would be pulling it out :) If anyone knows why the pieces seem to be working as expected separately but not together PLEASE HELP!

Thank you in advance for any assistance.

Best regards,
Ken
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Hey Ken,

I just wanted to include some info in case it might help us get this resolved. I'm experiencing the exact same issue with the exact same hater and automation, a Jandy JXI and a Hayward a VS Omni. Here's what I'm experiencing:

- when the wires are taken off of the hub at LVR1 the heater turns off
- when touched together the heater turns on, and when disconnected the heater turns off ( what you would expect)
- when the wires are put onto LVR1 the heater turns on and stays on and I cannot get it to turn off
- LVR1 is opening and closing correctly

These are all symptoms you described, but I did find one thing that I cannot wrap my head around. When just the wire that is connected to "POOL" is connected to either contact in LVR1, the heater turns on despite the wire connected to "COM" not being connected.


And just like you I have no shorts in the wire and have replaced the wire with the same issues.
 
Hi Gr1nder.07,

I have not had a chance to test but Hayward recommended using their shielded control cable between the control panel and the pump (part #SP3200DRCC). I purchased one but have not had time (or motivation with the cold weather) to connect it yet. Why a shielded cable between the panel and the pump would make a difference, I have no idea.

If you happen to try this, please report back your results.

Thanks,
Ken
 

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