Jandy Aquapure/Chrlormatic - Help with these board readings?

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R

retroicon

Member
Apr 30, 2024
8
Orlando
I'm running into all kinds of issues trying to fix my SWG, and yes, I know it's old.

It's the Jandy Aquapure/Chlormatic with the two boards, a front, and a back board. I've tested all the points on the back board, and got the following readings.

1-8 - 77.6 VAC ( manual says 75 )
2-7 - 66.5 VAC (manual says 65 )
3-6 - 20.7 VAC ( manual says 21 )
4-5 - 0 mVAC ( manual says 120 with cell on ) - I can't get a reading here even with cell on.

When testing the two points that go to the cell, it'll spike to over 30 VDC, the continuously go down until it reaches under 2 VDC and eventually I get the service light.

On the front board I'm getting 20.7 VAC from test points A-C, and from test points K-H again, I'm getting 0 mVDC (with cell on ).

I've already tried replacing the back board with a NOS board, that didn't help. I've tried two different cells, both new, that didn't do the trick.

Is the reading from 3-6 too low, the manual/troubleshooting guide recommends 21 VAC, and I'm seeing numbers below 21 VAC - does this mean the transformer is potentially bad? 20.7 doesn't seem that far off from 21 to me, but I'm not sure if 21 is a minimum, and that's where my problem lies.

Thanks
 
PoolGate said:
Cable between the cell and the power?
Click to expand...

These are generic cells, each with their cable hard wired into the cell - it's not a bad cable. There have been two different cables used as they're directly attached to the cell.

Also, I'm not using the jumper wire between the backboard, and the cell - the cell is directly plugged into the backboard so it's not an old jumper wire either unfortunately.
 
There is only one part left to replace then the front board correct? I don't think the slightly low reading is your issue. I assume your salt level is correct.
 
PoolGate said:
There is only one part left to replace then the front board correct? I don't think the slightly low reading is your issue. I assume your salt level is correct.
Click to expand...

Yes, the salt level is correct. It's reading the same on the temp/flow/salinity sensor as the reading I got when I took the water to have it tested at the local pool store.

As far as the front-board, there simply aren't any available. I thought that might be the problem too, so I send it out to have it repaired by a company who says they'll repair the board, and warranty it for a year. The board came back, and the problem remains. I'm still getting the same, slightly lower readings after their repair. ( I don't know what they did to the board )

There are only a few parts, as you mentioned - front board, back board, transformer, cell, flow/temp/salinity sensor. I've tried replacing the back board with no luck, the cell with no luck, the flow/temp/salinity sensor is returning the right readings, and the transformer is putting out the correct voltage. There isn't anything left to replace.

That's why I'm stumped. All the numbers are telling me this thing should be working, but it's just not.
 
retroicon said:
Yes, the salt level is correct. It's reading the same on the temp/flow/salinity sensor as the reading I got when I took the water to have it tested at the local pool store.

As far as the front-board, there simply aren't any available. I thought that might be the problem too, so I send it out to have it repaired by a company who says they'll repair the board, and warranty it for a year. The board came back, and the problem remains. I'm still getting the same, slightly lower readings after their repair. ( I don't know what they did to the board )

There are only a few parts, as you mentioned - front board, back board, transformer, cell, flow/temp/salinity sensor. I've tried replacing the back board with no luck, the cell with no luck, the flow/temp/salinity sensor is returning the right readings, and the transformer is putting out the correct voltage. There isn't anything left to replace.

That's why I'm stumped. All the numbers are telling me this thing should be working, but it's just not.
Click to expand...

I am not familiar with this model, does it have an LCD readout? I would not assume the flow/temp/salinity sensor is correct.
 

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PoolGate said:
Are there any error codes on the panel?
Click to expand...

Yes, I get 123 with one back board, and 124 with the other back board. It doesn't matter which cell I use, the errors report back the same.

So...

Back board A with Cell 1 - 123
Back board B with Cell 1 - 124

Back board A with Cell 2 - 123
Back board B with Cell 2 - 124

And yes, those are totally conflicting error codes - one means low current at cell, the other means high current at cell.
 
123 indicates the cell is bad. 124 indicates bigger problems.

https://cdn.fluidrausa.com/-/media/...5600.pdf?rev=76d46fe8251f472d92905740a074ef0a

Here is a more in-depth troubleshooting guide.

www.manualslib.com

Troubleshooting - Transformer Voltage - Jandy AquaPure Workbook [Page 17]

Jandy AquaPure Manual Online: Troubleshooting - Transformer Voltage. ORP ORP ORP ORP POS - 2 POS - 1 POS – 2 POS - 1 BUZZER BUZZER OFF ---- ON ----- OFF ---- ON ----- ADDRESS A B Device ADDRESS 0 0 # 1 A B Device A 1 0 # 2 0 0 # 1 A 0 1 # 3 B 1 0 1 1 # 4 # 2 B 0 1 # 3 DBI 1 1 # 4...
www.manualslib.com www.manualslib.com
 
BTW: I would switch back to the backplane with the 123 error. That is a recoverable error. I don't think 124 is.
 
This is the troubleshooting guide I'm using it's for an older system, but it's very simliar.


There's a flow-chart to diagnose problems, and all the test points, etc are clearly listed in terms of what the numbers should be.

I'm just at the end of my rope here. All the board numbers seem to be within spec, but with two different cells having been used, I just can't get it to work.
 
Not sure where you can go from here other than to say with Jandy it is almost always a bad cell. It is expensive to try the cell without knowing for sure so perhaps see if someone local can let you borrow their known working cell for you to try. Maybe even a local pool store would do this for you if you tell them you'll buy it if it solves your problem.
 
Just to followup in case someone finds this later through Google, it wasn't the cell. I purchased a new APUREM controller, and a new PLC1400 cell and installed them both.

Both of my existing cells worked fine with the new APUREM controller, so it was definitely something on the boards. As I mentioned previously, the back boards were reporting correct numbers, the front board was reporting correct numbers, and the transformer was reporting the correct output voltage numbers.

Just to be clear, this means that my new PLC1400 worked, and the other two cells also worked. This means I have a total of 3 working cells (2 old generic cells that don't use the Jandy cord, and 1 Jandy cell that uses the Jandy cord.) It wasn't the cell, or the cord.

Even though all the numbers in the troubleshooting guide were reporting correctly, the problem was still in one of the controller system parts somewhere.

I'll never know which part it was for sure, but it was either the front board, the back board, or the transformer - the original two cells I had both worked fine with the new APUREM controller.

If you find this one day, and you're wondering what's going on after going through all the troubleshooting guides, and still finding no problems, just know you're not alone. There's apparently some fault in the system that can't be detected through the troubleshooting guides, even if all your numbers are reporting within spec.

That's probably not helpful in helping figure out what's wrong with your system, just know that even if everything tests right, it still might not work. You're not going crazy, it can all look right, report right, and the system still doesn't work for some unknown reason.
 
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