Jandy 6700 Rev C Error

[dblko]

In house control and main control lock up. Have been having problems like this on and off and need to still check the wires following other posts here.

On confusing thing though, my system has two, an in house and a spa control, and there is also a salt generator. I opened the pool side main control box and there is another small circuit board connected with cables on to the left side of the main unit (last picture). What could this be for? Maybe some kind of multiplexer for communication? Maybe that’s the thing causing trouble?

Also, what is the use of the black 6 pin connector bar that’s right to the red 4 pin bar, is that relevant too?

Thanks so much

ps
I have an older system and the manual one can officially download is a newer version. Turns out however it’s possible to still find old manuals searching on wayback.archive.org , just to mention as an interesting side note.

 

[ajw22]

In house control and main control lock up. Have been having problems like this on and off and need to still check the wires following other posts here.

Yup, check the wires to the All Button control panel.

On confusing thing though, my system has two, an in house and a spa control, and there is also a salt generator.

Your spa control the 4 button with an LED in the center?

What is confusing?

I opened the pool side main control box and there is another small circuit board connected with cables on to the left side of the main unit (last picture). What could this be for? Maybe some kind of multiplexer for communication? Maybe that’s the thing causing trouble?

That is probably for your SWG communication.

What SWG do you have? Jandy Aquapure?

Also, what is the use of the black 6 pin connector bar that’s right to the red 4 pin bar, is that relevant too?

Your 4 button spa controller connects 6 wires into the black connector.

The indoor control panel wires connect to the red 4 wire terminal connector.

 

[dblko]

Thanks for the quick reply.

The salt system is a Hayward Goldline AquaRite, looks like this:

AquaRite® Salt Chlorinators | Sanitizers | In Ground Pool Sanitizers - Hayward Pool Products

AquaRite Salt Chlorinator, delivers soft, silky water. AquaRite turns salt into chlorine, eliminating red eyes, itchy skin & harsh odors. Solutions for pools up to 40,000 gallons.

www.hayward-pool.com

The spa remote is wired inground, looks like the link below (AquaLink SpaLink Jandy)

Jandy Spa Side Remote: Spalink RS Remote | Jandy

Looking for a Jandy Spa Side Remote? This Spalink RS Remote will bring the Perfect Pool Experience. Buy Now w/ a Pool Pro Near you!

www.jandy.com

Interesting about the inhouse and spa controller using different terminals.

In case there is no easy fix and the system stays locked, what's the best way to temporarily at least get the main filter pump running?

 

[dblko]

Added picture of in-house control circuit board

 

[ajw22]

Power down the Aqualink.

Disconnect the red terminal block for the Indoor Control Panel and the black terminal block for the SPA Remote.

Power up the Aqualink.

See if the panel works from the outside buttons in AUTO or SERVICE mode.

 

[dblko]

Power down the Aqualink.

Disconnect the red terminal block for the Indoor Control Panel and the black terminal block for the SPA Remote.

Power up the Aqualink.

See if the panel works from the outside buttons in AUTO or SERVICE mode.

I suppose that would tell the Aqualink that there are no external remote or indoor panels and have it fall back to manual control? Without actually doing anything other than power on and off and taking the picture of the indoor panel circuit, the service-mode started working again this morning, so before doing anything else I let the pump run for a while first before trying the above. Thanks !

 

[ajw22]

I suppose that would tell the Aqualink that there are no external remote or indoor panels and have it fall back to manual control?

No, the programs set in the Aqualink will still run in AUTO mode even with neither control panel connected.

The indoor control panel and the spa control panel are just other means of pushing the buttons that are on the outdoor control panel,

Only the indoor All Button control panel has a display that lets you program the system.

The Aqualink is real dumb and having panels connected does not "tell" it anything.

Without actually doing anything other than power on and off and taking the picture of the indoor panel circuit, the service-mode started working again this morning, so before doing anything else I let the pump run for a while first before trying the above. Thanks !

I think the power off/on cycle reset the Aqualink.

Had you tried powering it off and on before?

 

[dblko]

It’s weekend and I have time to work on it…
Opened it up, took some pictures, put it back together, now however the pool site controller is all dark as if it gets no power.
Strangely though the in house controlled lights all up, so some power is going through the system. Not sure what’s going on.

The extra side board turns out to be a surge protection circuit. Strangely it gets two sets of wires connect to the same 4 pin input terminal, I assume that’s the in-house (4 wires) and the spa remote (5 wires), but to the control board it is wired to both the 4 and 6 pin connector.

Not sure what to check as a next step, because of the pool side control being all dark.

 

[dblko]

I also removed the 9V backup battery that was totally deteriorated and actually falling apart, had to cut that wire off, assuming that’s not going to make an impact.

 

[1poolman1]

I also removed the 9V backup battery that was totally deteriorated and actually falling apart, had to cut that wire off, assuming that’s not going to make an impact.

The nine volt battery is the way the memory is retained in a power outage. If you cut the wires, you may have shorted the board, check the 1.5a fuse on the board. You will not have backup power. Without it you lose time and date, programming is not affected. Remove the 6-wire spa connection (just unplug from the board), they are the first thing the factory will tell you to try when this type of issue comes up. Those spa-buttons can cause all kinds of issues when they go bad.

 

[dblko]

The nine volt battery is the way the memory is retained in a power outage. If you cut the wires, you may have shorted the board, check the 1.5a fuse on the board. You will not have backup power. Without it you lose time and date, programming is not affected. Remove the 6-wire spa connection (just unplug from the board), they are the first thing the factory will tell you to try when this type of issue comes up. Those spa-buttons can cause all kinds of issues when they go bad.

Thanks.

I had tried removing both the 4 wire and 6 wire connectors, but not change, other that the in-house control lost power (as expected). It looks like the 6 wire connector from the power control board is connected to the surge protection board, but then there is no further outgoing wire connecter to the 6 wire terminal on that board. So looks to me the 6 wire terminal is not really used?

I had read 25.5 VAC directly on the transformer output wire that's plugged into the PCB board.

With the system powered off, I had read connectivity across the 3AMP glass fuse that' on the PCB board next to the 24VAC yellow-green-yellow power wire. Is there another one?

So far I didn't remove the fuse from the board. It looked pretty tied sitting inside those metal bracket holders. Wonder if I would need to remove it to get a fair reading, what's a good technique there without damaging the board?

With the 4-wire terminal connecter, power is getting from the board to the in-house remote via the 4 wire connector. In case the fuse is blown, would that not been cut as well?

Are there any other good spots on the board to take a measurement?

At this point I'm thinking about sending the board in to one of the repair shows mentioned in the forum, but need to exclude the possibility that the board is actually OK the issue is something else.

Thanks so much for helping.

 

[1poolman1]

Fuse is in pretty tight, but measuring continuity with it in place won't tell you if it is good. A small stick that will fit under one end and a lift will remove it. Be gentle, it will come out.

 

[dblko]

Was about to take it apart to check out the fuse when it started to work again in service mode. So I added some chlorine to the pool and ran the filter pump while it was working. Now, after a couple hours the pump stopped running by itself and the main board is back to the all lights on running in circles mode.
Given the above, the glass fuse might not be the issue what's going on.

 

[1poolman1]

Was about to take it apart to check out the fuse when it started to work again in service mode. So I added some chlorine to the pool and ran the filter pump while it was working. Now, after a couple hours the pump stopped running by itself and the main board is back to the all lights on running in circles mode.
Given the above, the glass fuse might not be the issue what's going on.

Not the fuse. Sounds like a bad board.

 

[dblko]

Took it apart again and took the fuse out to test it and make sure, the fuse has good connectivity.

Switching external power on and off from the breaker it sometimes comes on with the the auto LED showing, other times I get all LEDs on or the rotating LED pattern. Tried also disconnecting the external controllers which didn’t seem to make a difference. I guess this exhausts all the simple DIY diagnostics.

Turns out the SWG is bad too, postet about it separately. Does not look like it’s related, the SWG only has incoming power connections.

 

[dblko]

Got the board back from repair and its running again, yeah!