Is this a bad T-Cell??

[Turkish]

I noticed tonight that my T-cell 15 with Aqua Rite is apparently not making any Cl. Check Salt and Inspect Cell are both solid and salt levels are reading zero. Recently salt levels were around 3300 and stable. After turning off at the panel for 15 seconds and then back to Auto, it shows Generating for about a minute, before the 2 error lights for solid. After that point, the readings I get are as follows. The cell is at least 7 years old. Do the numbers below indicate something other than a bad cell? Any way to confirm it’s the cell before ordering a new one? Tia

0
95
32.1
0.00
89P
-0
AL-0
R1.59
T-15

 

[JamesW]

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Turkish]

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks. Do you have a favorite section? Maybe diagnostics section and then report back?

 

[JamesW]

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

• Default salt display
• Pool temp
• Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
• Cell current
• Desired output (% of the knob)
• Instant salinity
• Product name
• Software revision (r.XX)
• Cell type

The Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guidelines explains each reading.

• Instant salt = the cells reading of the current salt PPM
• Average Salt = the average salt reading of the last 3 cycles of the cell.

To estimate the performance of the Aquarite cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity. If the performance is less than 75%, the cell is failing and it's time to consider replacing the cell. You need to be sure about the actual salinity by using a salt test like the Taylor K-1766.

Check the instant salinity reading and then cycle power to reverse polarity and recheck the instant salinity reading. The numbers should be about the same +/- 200 ppm.

You can get the age of the cell from the serial number. It will be 3Exx, where xx is the year it was made.

 

[Turkish]

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

• Default salt display
• Pool temp
• Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
• Cell current
• Desired output (% of the knob)
• Instant salinity
• Product name
• Software revision (r.XX)
• Cell type

The Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guidelines explains each reading.

• Instant salt = the cells reading of the current salt PPM
• Average Salt = the average salt reading of the last 3 cycles of the cell.

To estimate the performance of the Aquarite cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity. If the performance is less than 75%, the cell is failing and it's time to consider replacing the cell. You need to be sure about the actual salinity by using a salt test like the Taylor K-1766.

Check the instant salinity reading and then cycle power to reverse polarity and recheck the instant salinity reading. The numbers should be about the same +/- 200 ppm.

You can get the age of the cell from the serial number. It will be 3Exx, where xx is the year it was made.

Thanks. Seems like your Hayward link is broken. Instant salinity is what is displayed with the minus sign, correct? It then will switch back to actual or ‘default’ salinity after several seconds, correct? It always shows “-0” before the minus sign goes away. Was going the Hayward guidelines may help here. All the other research I’ve done, though, doesn’t help me feel confident if my issue is the cell or panel.

What seems most compelling is something I read about a bad/failed connection between the cell and board. That actually makes sense.

 

[ajw22]

Hayward redid their website and broke a lot of links…

http://www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/AquaRite-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf

 

[Turkish]

Heyward was no help on the phone. Just recommended taking the cell in for testing. I feel like somehow there is a way for me to confirm who’s misbehaving, the cell or the controller.

 

[JamesW]

You can get the age of the cell from the serial number. It will be 3Exx, where xx is the year it was made.

 

[Turkish]

James, I’ve read enough to know that you’re the SWG Yoda around here. Are you telling me the cell is too old and failed? It is beyond the 5 year typical lifetime I’ve seen thrown around

 

[JamesW]

What is the serial number?

 

[Turkish]

The number under the barcode is 3E15118. So 2015??

 

[JamesW]

The number under the barcode is 3E15118. So 2015??

Correct.

At 8 years, you can consider the cell to be at the normal expected life.

You can test it at a store that tests cells.

To estimate the performance of the Aquarite cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity. If the performance is less than 75%, the cell is failing and it's time to consider replacing the cell. You need to be sure about the actual salinity by using a salt test like the Taylor K-1766.

Check the instant salinity reading and then cycle power to reverse polarity and recheck the instant salinity reading. The numbers should be about the same +/- 200 ppm.

 

[Turkish]

Cell tested “fail.” At first, I thought the new cell was doing the same thing. I’ve recalibrated and hoping that was the new cell’s issue now. The new one is at least measuring something other than 0.