Is there any solution to hook up my salt cell to my pool pump timer?

[sink_hole]

I had to run new 220 to my pool to replace the old 110 single speed that failed. This new 220 comes off the main panel that IS NOT on power backup. The old 110 wiring IS on power backup and host the timer and salt cell. Now that the new 220 power is run to the pump location, I'm sorting out what can stay/go with my electrician and I'm just realizing/discovering the potential dangers going on.

If i just wire the salt cell up to the timer on the backup power line, and just time it independently of my pool pump, then there is a risk that if I lose power, the pump WONT be running and the salt cell will be. So before I run to my electrician with my problems, i wanted to see if anyone was aware of any solutions I can provide my electrician instead.

Is there any solution to hook up my salt cell to my pool pump timer?
I've read this thread which was on par with what I'm asking, but slightly a little different. How do I wire this stuff?

My old setup was presumed from 1980s and consisted of:
MAX-E-GLAS (STA-RITE) Centrifugal Pump with trap 1.5 (PE5F-126L) 3450RPM
PUREX Stainless DE Filter
jacuzzi salt cell jss40 added on in 2020

New setup
Pentair SuperFlo VST Variable Speed Pump 1.5HP (342002)
Pentair - EC-160332 Clean & Clear Plus 520 sq. ft. Cartridge Pool Filter
jacuzzi - salt cell jss40

 

[generessler]

It's a great catch that this is a risky situation. Most salt cells have a flow switch that would turn the cell off in the case you're worried about, but it's not great to rely on that more than necessary. Flow switches fail.

The cleanest solution is probably to switch your cell to 240 and power it with the same circuit as the pump. Most salt water systems allow this. I can't find any wiring info for your cell (kind of amazing). But the control board seems to have a plug block to select voltage. It's likely there's a wiring diagram showing how it works inside the unit. Your electrician should be able to make the switch.

 

[hexabc]

I had to run new 220 to my pool to replace the old 110 single speed that failed. This new 220 comes off the main panel that IS NOT on power backup. The old 110 wiring IS on power backup and host the timer and salt cell. Now that the new 220 power is run to the pump location, I'm sorting out what can stay/go with my electrician and I'm just realizing/discovering the potential dangers going on.

If i just wire the salt cell up to the timer on the backup power line, and just time it independently of my pool pump, then there is a risk that if I lose power, the pump WONT be running and the salt cell will be. So before I run to my electrician with my problems, i wanted to see if anyone was aware of any solutions I can provide my electrician instead.

Is there any solution to hook up my salt cell to my pool pump timer?
I've read this thread which was on par with what I'm asking, but slightly a little different. How do I wire this stuff?

My old setup was presumed from 1980s and consisted of:
MAX-E-GLAS (STA-RITE) Centrifugal Pump with trap 1.5 (PE5F-126L) 3450RPM
PUREX Stainless DE Filter
jacuzzi salt cell jss40 added on in 2020

New setup
Pentair SuperFlo VST Variable Speed Pump 1.5HP (342002)
Pentair - EC-160332 Clean & Clear Plus 520 sq. ft. Cartridge Pool Filter
jacuzzi - salt cell jss40

Why do you insist on having the cell powered from 120V instead of 240 ?

 

[proavia]

With a 35,000 gallons pool, a SWG rated for only 40,000 gallons is woefully small.
We recommend a SWG be sized for 2 times the pool volume.
The only two SWG's rated for 60,000 gallons are the Pentair IC60 and Circupool RJ60+.
When you Jacuzzi salt cell finally fails, consider upgrading to the IC60 or RJ60+. The IC60 would be a better choice if you have Pentair automation or plan to add it.

What exact timer model do you have?
If you want 220v and 110v at the pad, you need to install a sub-panel or automation at the pad - or you need a separate 220v electric run and a separate 110v electric run.
What amperage rating is the 220v breaker at the main electric panel that runs to the pool equipment?
What is the wire gauge of the 220v electric run to the pool equipment?

 

[sink_hole]

It's a great catch that this is a risky situation. Most salt cells have a flow switch that would turn the cell off in the case you're worried about, but it's not great to rely on that more than necessary. Flow switches fail.

The cleanest solution is probably to switch your cell to 240 and power it with the same circuit as the pump. Most salt water systems allow this. I can't find any wiring info for your cell (kind of amazing). But the control board seems to have a plug block to select voltage. It's likely there's a wiring diagram showing how it works inside the unit. Your electrician should be able to make the switch.

Ah, idk why i didn't even think of this... I was so fixated on the idea the pump HAD to be dedicated... not realizing rules can be bent. The salt cell and timer both allow 240, I'll let the electrician know! Thanks!

 

[JoyfulNoise]

The variable speed pump needs to be powered all the time. The SWG only gets powered when needed to generate chlorine. If you are using an old school mechanical timer then you power the pump by hooking it up to the LINE side of the timer and you hook the SWG power supply up to the LOAD side of the timer. Program the VSP to run on a schedule you prefer - like 6am to 6pm - and then set the timer to power the SWG within a 30min window around the VSP - 6:30am to 5:30pm. If the power goes out and the VSP timing is a little off from the mechanical timer, no big deal. You just have to make a mental note to check them regularly to make sure they stay in sync.

 

[sink_hole]

With a 35,000 gallons pool, a SWG rated for only 40,000 gallons is woefully small.
We recommend a SWG be sized for 2 times the pool volume.
The only two SWG's rated for 60,000 gallons are the Pentair IC60 and Circupool RJ60+.
When you Jacuzzi salt cell finally fails, consider upgrading to the IC60 or RJ60+. The IC60 would be a better choice if you have Pentair automation or plan to add it.

What exact timer model do you have?
If you want 220v and 110v at the pad, you need to install a sub-panel or automation at the pad - or you need a separate 220v electric run and a separate 110v electric run.
What amperage rating is the 220v breaker at the main electric panel that runs to the pool equipment?
What is the wire gauge of the 220v electric run to the pool equipment?

Thanks! no idea why it's so small. It was gifted by the previous homeowner when i purchased the house. I'll look into the mentioned ones as options when the time comes. I've always had to run the salt cell at 100% in the summer time, so that probably explains why.
I have an old GE timer. When i open it, it shows 4 different model #s, not sure which is mine, but here's some pictures of it.
Yes, i ran a whole new 220v 80' to the pad. I have two existing 110 circuits at the pad I was going to try to keep the timer on, but as the first commenter mentioned, i can (should) just move the timer and salt cell to the new 220 circuit which solves my problem.
The new 220v, is 4 strands (2 hots, neutral, ground) of 8 gauge. No breaker is on it yet, electrician had to order one.

 

[proavia]

Thanks! no idea why it's so small. It was gifted by the previous homeowner when i purchased the house. I'll look into the mentioned ones as options when the time comes. I've always had to run the salt cell at 100% in the summer time, so that probably explains why.
I have an old GE timer. When i open it, it shows 4 different model #s, not sure which is mine, but here's some pictures of it.
Yes, i ran a whole new 220v 80' to the pad. I have two existing 110 circuits at the pad I was going to try to keep the timer on, but as the first commenter mentioned, i can (should) just move the timer and salt cell to the new 220 circuit which solves my problem.
The new 220v, is 4 strands (2 hots, neutral, ground) of 8 gauge. No breaker is on it yet, electrician had to order one.

A 40k cell on a 35k pool pretty much means you have to run at 100% all the time during summer.

It appears that the timer can be set for 110v or 220v - look to the left of the blue dip switches on the left side above the white wires. Those dip switches need to be set for the voltage you want the timer (and SWG) to run on.
Your electrician should rewire the timer and set the dip switches to use 220v. And you will also have to have him set the SWG to use 220v (if the SWG supports it).

Additionally, all of those cut off wires in the first two pics need to have wire nuts on the ends - whether or not they are hot. Safety first!

So - FIRST, have electrician check if the SWG can be set to run on 220v. If it can, then have him rewire the timer to use 220v as well. If the SWG can only run on 110v, you will have to use the existing 110v circuit to run the timer and SWG - or have a subpanel installed at the pad, have 220v run to the pump and 110v run to the timer/SWG.

 

[sink_hole]

A 40k cell on a 35k pool pretty much means you have to run at 100% all the time during summer.

It appears that the timer can be set for 110v or 220v - look to the left of the blue dip switches on the left side above the white wires. Those dip switches need to be set for the voltage you want the timer (and SWG) to run on.
Your electrician should rewire the timer and set the dip switches to use 220v. And you will also have to have him set the SWG to use 220v (if the SWG supports it).

Additionally, all of those cut off wires in the first two pics need to have wire nuts on the ends - whether or not they are hot. Safety first!

So - FIRST, have electrician check if the SWG can be set to run on 220v. If it can, then have him rewire the timer to use 220v as well. If the SWG can only run on 110v, you will have to use the existing 110v circuit to run the timer and SWG - or have a subpanel installed at the pad, have 220v run to the pump and 110v run to the timer/SWG.

I went ahead and bought a new digital timer that can keep the time on backup in the event of a power loss since my pump does the same thing. I didn't want them to be out of sync or always have to think about the pool every time sdge decides to cut power.

I ended up getting the Intermatic ET1125C 24-Hour 30-Amp Electronic Time Switch, 120-277 VAC
And thanks for calling out those wires! they will be removed/replaced come Wednesday this week (so says the electrician) but i went ahead and put caps on them anyway.

I coulnd't find any info in documentation on the SWG, so i took a look at the unit itself, and the sticker on the outside says 115/230Va.c. 10amps so i think i'm good!