Intro and pool problems

frogabog said:
I only mentioned that it might be accurate because Bob's PH reading yesterday was also 7.6, and adjusting PH down to 7.2-7.4 is what is always recommended here before beginning the shocking process.
Is that to prevent ph getting to high during the shock process? I do not see that mentioned in the "shock your pool" section of pool school.
 
Readings this morning:

FC - 25+
TC - 25+ I don't have the FAS-DPD kit yet, but it is on order
CYA - 60
PH - 8.0+ (brighter than the brightest pink) Do I need to get this down while shocking, or is this normal? Is it counter-productive?

bob
 
I think it's time to celebrate.
I got my FAS-DPD kit yesterday (while I was out of pocket). I tested this morning and the FC is 9 to 9.5 (I may have added an unnecessary drop of R-871)
The test showed my CC as being 0.
The pool is cleared than I have seen it since this started.
Any precautions I should take before re-opening the pool?

bob

p.s. I will do further testing after lunch fro all the other parameters.
 
:wave: If you were in the shocking process, you need to perform the OCLT before you are finished. If you pass that by losing 1ppm of chlorine or less overnight, have a CC of .5 or less and a clear and sparkly pool, then you are finished.
 
This morning I checked my FC and found it to be about 7.5. I added 146oz of Clorox as per the Pool Calculator (I'm still shocking the pool so I wanted it to be at least 25FC). Tonight I checked it and the FC reading was 6.5.
Is this normal?
The high temperature today was 107 degrees with very little cloud cover. My gut tells me it's common, but I just wanted to hear from the experts.
Overnight I lost 2ppm of chlorine so there is still some bad stuff in the pool also. All of my other readings seem to be within the guidelines.
 
It is common to lose some during the day, but your loss seems a little high for me, but since you are still fighting something (hence the 2 ppm loss at night), that may explain it. What is your CC level?

If you can, try to not let the pol drop below you minimum shock level during the whole shocking process. This may mean you will need to test in the early afternoon. If you can not get there, and if you can not get someone else to do it, maybe attempt to add enough so when you come home you are not below 18 ppm (using the less conservative poolcalculator recommendations for the 18 ppm).
 

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Since my last post I was making good headway. I had been adding the amount of chlorine as per the Pool Calculator but could never get my FC levels up to what it said it should be.
I had roughly 7ppm of FC and it called for 132 oz of 6% chlorine to get it to 24+ FC. I added that amount on several different days but could never get a reading near that 24+ level. A few days ago I added double that amount and it shot up to 25ppm or so. I checked the next 3 nights of OCLT and never lost more than 1ppm. The pool, without adding any chlorine for the last 2 days, is still at 25ppm TC with 0 CC.
Problem: the pool is still a little cloudy. It's much clearer and there are no more floaters in the pool. It's just not sparkly.
Am I missing something?

Is my pump woefully underpowered or just unable to pump out the bad stuff (my suspicion). I wish I could trade it out but the pool fittings don't fit the new Intex pump I bought. I have real doubts about the effectual circulation in this cheap pool.
FYI, the pump I have is not a suction pump. The pool drains into it and the pump throws the water back into the pool. I think all Intex pumps of this caliber do the same thing. Am I right about that?

bob
 
In my experience, that pump is bad for that size of pool...especially when trying to clean up organics.

I would not stop shocking until the cloudiness goes away.

By the way what are you using for your pool volume? I get 5300 gallons if you pool is truly filled to 3.5 feet.
 
The mfg says 3800 gallons. It's not quite full either. it's at least 3-4' lower than full right now.

I started suspecting the pump several days ago. I actually bought an Intex but none of the hoses fit the pool lines and I haven't found any suitable adaptors. The intex pool pumps water through the fountain at least twice as high. I guess I need to keep looking for adaptors.
I'm trying to find a way to add the Intex but so far no go, especially since it doesn't pull water from the pool.
 
The Intex pumps are not fed by gravity, what do you mean by "they don't pull water from the pool"? I have a Summer Escapes 1000gph pump on my pool right now, pulling water from the bottom up, over the side, through the pump and then back up over the side again for the return. 48" wall. It works very well actually (but NOISY!!).

It is true that one 1000gph pump will have a hard time with that pool however you have an option that isn't pretty, but will help and you won't have to figure out the plumbing "today" just to get the pool filtered better.

full-time-pumping-intex-t33543.html

In the thread above you will see my solution to inefficient pumps (I have since purchased but not yet installed an Intex sand filter w/1600gph pump). With a soft sided pool you'll have to improvise a bit but it will allow you to add the new pump right now and get some good filtering going while you figure out how to plumb it.

You can also get some walmart brand cartridges (darker blue ends, distributed by walmart). They have a different filter paper that looks like miniscule solar cover (dotty), and will catch finer particles than the ones that look like dryer sheets. I have to clean these every 24 hours because they plug up so fast but they do a darn fine job of filtering for one whole day at a time :~} I do NOT like cleaning filters every day... so they're not a long term solution IMO.
 

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