Intex ECO5110 - High Salt - Code 92 - PCB Pictures - Need Ideas

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T

traustic

Active member
Jun 29, 2018
37
Abilene, Texas
Salt level is at 2900 according to my pool store. Worked a few times after being replaced, but this is my second unit in two weeks.

Used my meter to check the continuity of the cell from one side to the other and to the posts where the power connects. All is good. Old cell and new cell both look good.

Blew a fuse on my first unit and took it apart to take a picture and measure various voltages.


How do I solve the fan having power if I bypass the system by connecting the converter to the wires going to the cell? Could I also tie the fan with the cell even though it's a lower voltage, just to get the unit cooled and producing?
What are the two plates on the right side used for and do I need them? If I do need them how would I bypass those as the voltage is a bit higher than that from the converter.

I was thinking about bypassing my first unit and using a timer on it to get it working to atleast produce chlorine. I could replace the fuse, but it would just throw a code 92 like it was doing before I took it apart and blew the fuse.

Need your ideas as I am not an electrician nor a pcb board repair guy.

How many units could be bad as this is my second one already.

eco5110-guts.jpg
 
I did some more checking on the voltages outside. Under load with pump and swg started I was getting 116.7v outside. I ran an extention to just the swg from a kitchen outlet that was getting 119.3v. Same error on any outlet, high salt code 92. It ran 3 hours this afternoon without a hiccup. After swimming and in the morning, code 92.
 
The ECO 2 plate side has never been soaked or replaced on either unit but looked 'good'. It also tested out okay with my meter but I noticed the color was a bit "whiter" on the inside of the plates even though it looked even. I soaked it for a few hours in vinegar and fired it up. Seems to be working at the moment. Hard to believe there would be that much buildup after two weeks.
 
It worked for a day then quit. Checked it later with no buildup again and would not worked. I dropped my PH down last night to 7.2, started the pump and then the swcg, it worked fine and was producing. Turned it all off when going for a swim and when I tried to turn it back on, the same error popped up - high salt code 92.

Pool - 5000 gallons

TH 400
TC 1
FC 1
PH 7.2
TA 160
CYA 40
Salt 2900

PH and Chlorine are liquid tests
Salt is Aquachek strip test
Rest of the parameters are aquachek7 test strips. I'm going to purchase the TF-100 test kit in a week.

I'm adding bleach every night to get the TC to 5, I'm using muriatic acid to bring down the PH and TA. The PH should climb again and I can add more acid to drop the TA again. Suggestions to get the ECO5110 to play nice? I'm using a 1/4hp intex sand filter which puts out 1200gph, 1050gph system flow.


FC
traustic said:
The ECO 2 plate side has never been soaked or replaced on either unit but looked 'good'. It also tested out okay with my meter but I noticed the color was a bit "whiter" on the inside of the plates even though it looked even. I soaked it for a few hours in vinegar and fired it up. Seems to be working at the moment. Hard to believe there would be that much buildup after two weeks.
Click to expand...
 
Don’t trust the aquacheck salt test strip. I had same problem with my ECO6110 because I actually had high salt although strip said okay. Purchased the taylor salt drop test which showed high salt. After a partial drain and refill the code 92 is gone.
 
Thanks for the info - I'll get the test ordered asap. Lets just say the results are the same and at 3000, would you drain water to lower it even more, and if so how low would you go in salinity? The problem is intermittent as sometimes the swg works for an hour or two, and other times it works a few minutes.

Acmfl said:
Don’t trust the aquacheck salt test strip. I had same problem with my ECO6110 because I actually had high salt although strip said okay. Purchased the taylor salt drop test which showed high salt. After a partial drain and refill the code 92 is gone.
Click to expand...
 
I had Leslie's test my water today and was surprised their salt test was lower than my strips. It appears to be working when it is cooler, so I need a salinity below 2500 because of the temp in my area.

FAC 4
TAC 4
Salt 2600
CH 150
CYA 50
TA 100
pH 7.4
Copper 0
Iron 0
Phosphates 200
Temp 75

I guess I'll drain 1/6th of the pool and see what happens with the Eco5110. I have more CYA to add once I get the swcg working predictably.

I called Intex and they told me to drain water as well, even with my low salt readings.
 
Before I received my salt drop test, I seem to remember somewhere in my googling about code 92 that others have had the problem with high salt even when it was in range but I can’t remember what was the solution from intex. I would use chlorine until you get the salt drop test, maybe wait to drain the water til you test it yourself?
 
There is no way Leslies is even close on my salinity. I did another strip when I got home and was at 3200 for salt compared to their 2600. I went ahead and drained 8-10% of the pool and my Intex SWG has been rocking solid the last 3 uses with no errors. Drop test will be delivered on Friday so I can get an accurate salt reading. I'll get a TF100 kit next week to verify my other numbers.



traustic said:
I had Leslie's test my water today and was surprised their salt test was lower than my strips. It appears to be working when it is cooler, so I need a salinity below 2500 because of the temp in my area.

FAC 4
TAC 4
Salt 2600
CH 150
CYA 50
TA 100
pH 7.4
Copper 0
Iron 0
Phosphates 200
Temp 75

I guess I'll drain 1/6th of the pool and see what happens with the Eco5110. I have more CYA to add once I get the swcg working predictably.

I called Intex and they told me to drain water as well, even with my low salt readings.
Click to expand...
 

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Intex ECO5110 High Salt - Code 92 - Going Insane

Traustic thank goodness I happened to find your posts on this site about your own issues with the Intex SWG because I am at my wits end with this thing. In short I’ve had it 2 and a half weeks. We followed the directions to a T because we had read all the reviews about it giving the high salt error right off the bat. When we added salt we let the pump run 24 hours. Our first PPM measurement was 2460PPM. We went ahead and started the unit at 24 hours and it worked like a charm. Day 2 worked again. Day 3, At the advice of our local pool store we added about 25 more pounds of salt. Ran pump 24 hours without SWG and it wouldn’t work once we tried again. All we kept getting was High Salt. So we drained a little less than 20% actually and added fresh water and it still said high salt. Drained a little more and added fresh water and it finally started working again. Took a pool water sample back the next morning and they said it was at 3000PPM. Of course they suggested adding more salt but we just nodded and then did not add any when we got home. The SWG worked maybe 2 days. So I’ve tried some different thing like cleaning the unit even tho it’s not that old, running fresh water through the system for a few minutes and sometimes we will get it to come on and work but then the next day it’ll say high salt again. So I was preparing to box it up and send it back in the morning. Then I saw your post about disconnecting the E.C.O. Electrode. So I literally just came down here to the pool and did that. Turned my pump on for a good 15 minutes and then turned the SWG on. It’s been working ever since.

So my question is, will it be ok to run it without the ECO electrode connected? Am I defeating the purpose of the other electrode? Did you ever figure out anything else and then decide to plug your ECO side back up? Any insight or help you can provide would be so appreciated. We would love to keep the unit if we can figure this out. Thanks so much!!


traustic said:
Salt level is at 2900 according to my pool store. Worked a few times after being replaced, but this is my second unit in two weeks.

Used my meter to check the continuity of the cell from one side to the other and to the posts where the power connects. All is good. Old cell and new cell both look good.

Blew a fuse on my first unit and took it apart to take a picture and measure various voltages.


How do I solve the fan having power if I bypass the system by connecting the converter to the wires going to the cell? Could I also tie the fan with the cell even though it's a lower voltage, just to get the unit cooled and producing?
What are the two plates on the right side used for and do I need them? If I do need them how would I bypass those as the voltage is a bit higher than that from the converter.

I was thinking about bypassing my first unit and using a timer on it to get it working to atleast produce chlorine. I could replace the fuse, but it would just throw a code 92 like it was doing before I took it apart and blew the fuse.

Need your ideas as I am not an electrician nor a pcb board repair guy.

How many units could be bad as this is my second one already.

View attachment 81630
Click to expand...
 
Re: Intex ECO5110 High Salt - Code 92 - Going Insane

GA_SURGTECH said:
So my question is, will it be ok to run it without the ECO electrode connected? Am I defeating the purpose of the other electrode? Did you ever figure out anything else and then decide to plug your ECO side back up? Any insight or help you can provide would be so appreciated. We would love to keep the unit if we can figure this out. Thanks so much!!
Click to expand...

The actual cell that produces the chlorine should be the three plates. The other two plates are intex's solution to not using copper. It should work just fine without using the two plates since chlorine is being produced.

I think the issue boils down to the power drop when too much salt is in your pool. Most pool stores and swcg use 3000-3200 for salt This unit needs a level much lower to operate. Several reviews state that the unit uses between 2000-2500 ppm on the salt level to be operational. If the salt is higher than this the unit throws a high salt error because there is a power drop from the power supply. Disconnecting the two plates removes the power draw from that side and allows more available for the cell. Since it doesn't detect a power drop at your salinity level it continues to work. This is just what I understand.

You can remove the eight screws from the bottom and unplug the 2 plate electrode from the board. It's the white and black one on the top left looking at the board. The cell is plugged in under that where there are 4 wires. You could also try lowering your salt level to the levels I typed above. I plugged my eco side back in and it worked for a couple of days then threw the error. The power supply is skimpy and throws the error at 3000+ ppm salt to prevent the power supply from burning up.

Intex Info On ECO - "[FONT=open_sans_regular]Second, with the E.C.O. (electrocatalytic oxidation) process, water molecules are split into highly powerful oxidants which destroy organic contaminants such as bacteria and algae. "

The ECO plates are designed to help destroy organic contaminants. Chlorine is the main goal and unplugging the ECO, which allows your unit to work, is an acceptable thing if it works. Personally I would check the salt levels with a drop test and get it at 2300ppm and see if the unit works with the ECO also used. My drop kit will be delivered today, so I can get some accurate numbers on salinity and drop it more if necessary.[/FONT]
 
I’m unclear where to move wires to disable / bypass the two-plate side and simply produce chlorine. Can someone please explain where to move what? I unplugged the top left white and black wires but am still getting a low salt warning.
 
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