Internal Bypass valve Hayward H150 Millivolt LP Heater - function & repair parts HELP
I am desperate for help - I'm so frustrated.
Upon opening & starting heater 6/1/17 my Hayward H150 MV propane heater had a broken spring on by pass value & stem (causing it to rock & shake). I opted to replace it with new original parts vs new "kit" offered. Knocking and rattling solved but now heater runs 50 seconds of warm (heated) water then cycles off for 90 seconds & repeats all day.
I think I'm at error -- I epoxied the new original style value to the new original style stem in same spot as original old stem, I had removed from header but I'm thinking this may be cause if problem. I've since read the valve can harden to stem over years -- whereas I just presumed the old stem & valve had been epoxied too since there's no logical place for it to rest securely inside header/diverter plate.
The new style replacement kit (HAXBPK1932) comes with its own diverter plate and stem, valve, spring & nut.
I am baffled about the assembly of the original bypass valve & stem (original style part #s are HAXBPV1930; HAXSFT1930; HAXVSG1930) - the stem only has threads on one end and screws into the nut and the spring goes on the stem as does the valve but there is nothing to hold valve in place at the other end or to apply tension to spring (which is why I presumed it had been epoxied).
1) How does this internal bypass work w/ original pieces?
2) Would this issue be resolved if I just get new kit HAXBPK1932?
3) Is this bypass issue most likely cause of 50 sec heater cycles on/off every 90 seconds? (I understand I can check flow thermostat when it's apart to rule that out)?
It's not the thermostat and it's not pressure switch. It fires up w/o issue except thats its shutting down flame and restarting every 90 seconds.
I'd be so grateful for any guidance!!!!
I am desperate for help - I'm so frustrated.
Upon opening & starting heater 6/1/17 my Hayward H150 MV propane heater had a broken spring on by pass value & stem (causing it to rock & shake). I opted to replace it with new original parts vs new "kit" offered. Knocking and rattling solved but now heater runs 50 seconds of warm (heated) water then cycles off for 90 seconds & repeats all day.
I think I'm at error -- I epoxied the new original style value to the new original style stem in same spot as original old stem, I had removed from header but I'm thinking this may be cause if problem. I've since read the valve can harden to stem over years -- whereas I just presumed the old stem & valve had been epoxied too since there's no logical place for it to rest securely inside header/diverter plate.
The new style replacement kit (HAXBPK1932) comes with its own diverter plate and stem, valve, spring & nut.
I am baffled about the assembly of the original bypass valve & stem (original style part #s are HAXBPV1930; HAXSFT1930; HAXVSG1930) - the stem only has threads on one end and screws into the nut and the spring goes on the stem as does the valve but there is nothing to hold valve in place at the other end or to apply tension to spring (which is why I presumed it had been epoxied).
1) How does this internal bypass work w/ original pieces?
2) Would this issue be resolved if I just get new kit HAXBPK1932?
3) Is this bypass issue most likely cause of 50 sec heater cycles on/off every 90 seconds? (I understand I can check flow thermostat when it's apart to rule that out)?
It's not the thermostat and it's not pressure switch. It fires up w/o issue except thats its shutting down flame and restarting every 90 seconds.
I'd be so grateful for any guidance!!!!
