Intermatic Load Center Question

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fishbait

fishbait

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2021
82
Charleston,SC
Pool Size
17500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I currently have a basic load center, separate timer for pump, SWCG doubled up on timer. Light was switched by breaker.

I have been in the process of planning to replace light with 12v and am also considering repolaceing load center and consolidating into a dual timer, 8 breaker intermatic load center with built in 300w transformer. I'm pricing stuff out and can't seem to find what breakers are compatible with the load center. Does anyone have any idea or does any one have an Intermatic T40604RT3 that they could snap a picture of the inside of the front door label for me? Thanks.

 
fishbait said:
I currently have a basic load center, separate timer for pump, SWCG doubled up on timer. Light was switched by breaker.

I have been in the process of planning to replace light with 12v and am also considering repolaceing load center and consolidating into a dual timer, 8 breaker intermatic load center with built in 300w transformer. I'm pricing stuff out and can't seem to find what breakers are compatible with the load center. Does anyone have any idea or does any one have an Intermatic T40604RT3 that they could snap a picture of the inside of the front door label for me? Thanks.

Click to expand...
Eaton type BR (or equivalent) breaker. Siemans QP and QF series.
 
Thanks, I found all of that info but couldn't find the breaker specs which is usually on a sticker inside the front door. Looks like 1poolman knows and I'll double check with the help form. Thanks again!
 
New electrical question. Since the intermatic load centers with built-in transformers and dual timers are limited i landed on the T40604RT3 as mentioned in my first post. After researching, this model includes a T104 and a T106 timer. Id like to use one of the timers to run the 220V pump / SWG, and the other timer to run the built in 120v light transformer to turn the new 12V LED light on from dusk to whatever time I want it to go off. My question is, the T104 seems fine for the 220V pump, but will the T106 work for the 120V TX for the light? Would I just have to use a 2 pole 220V breaker to the lines since the clock motor is 220V and then only use one of the loads for the 120V light TX or do I need a different timer? Why is there only one line terminal on the T106 diagram? I'm confused.
1683396394362.png
 
T106 is typically used with a 2-speed pump.

You can use it for your 120V light.

Use a 240 line to A and 3 to power the clock motor.

Use a separate 120V GFCI line hot wire on 1 and connect the light load to 2.
 
ajw22 said:
T106 is typically used with a 2-speed pump.

You can use it for your 120V light.

Use a 240 line to A and 3 to power the clock motor.

Use a separate 120V GFCI line hot wire on 1 and connect the light load to 2.
Click to expand...
Thank you sir! So for the 240 line can I just jumper off the 240V from the other clocks 1 and 3 or should I come off another (new) 220 breaker just for the clock motor?
 
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Ok, So I pulled in the new light and in doing so I pulled out the old ground by accident. It was a painful pull to say the least. My pull is an 82' home run to the load center. The old ground was #12 and I pulled a new ground of stranded #10. I'm now seeing that should have been #8? I'm also seeing there should be potting compound on the lug in the wet niche, which there isn't. Do I have to drain the pool below the niche to do the potting compound or is there an underwater solution I could use without draining? Also, why do I need #8 wire instead of the #10 I pulled for the ground? I plan to pull the 8, but wonder technically why. Thanks.
 

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If the new light is low voltage, you don't need the ground.

full
 
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JamesW said:
If the new light is low voltage, you don't need the ground.

full
Click to expand...
Wow, that is good news on the ground. I'll leave the #10 in and move on. Any insight on the potting compound that can be installed without draining the pool, or should I just not worry about it since the ground isn't even required. There was no0 potting compound on the existing and it was 25 years old before I pulled it out of the lug by accident.
 
ajw22 said:
T106 is typically used with a 2-speed pump.

You can use it for your 120V light.

Use a 240 line to A and 3 to power the clock motor.

Use a separate 120V GFCI line hot wire on 1 and connect the light load to 2.
Click to expand...
So this doesnt work quite right. If do it as ypu describe, the ciruit 1,2 will be on when red lever is off and off when red lever is on. Looking at how to make it work with 220 clock and switch 130 circuit.
 
fishbait said:
So this doesnt work quite right. If do it as ypu describe, the ciruit 1,2 will be on when red lever is off and off when red lever is on. Looking at how to make it work with 220 clock and switch 130 circuit.
Click to expand...
Going to move one 240 leg from 3 to 2. Then use 3 and 4 to switch 120. Seems like that will work maybe.20230530_181752.jpg20230530_181802.jpg
 
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