Intellitouch to Intellicenter Upgrade - Help - Migrating Programming

cousrey

Member
Jun 21, 2023
15
Dallas
Pool Size
48000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Thanks in advance for your advice.

I am doing the Intellitouch i7+3 to Intellicenter I10PS tomorrow (intellitouch board is failing) and I have researched this forum, pentair manuals and the web and cannot find an answer on the programming of the new Intellicenter. Namely, can I migrate my existing programming from the Intellitouch to the Intellicenter? If migration is not possible, is there somewhere that I can record what has been programmed and how since the Pentair rep did it all?

Also to compound my issue, I do not have any computers that can run Pentair software except maybe an old iMac 5k that I can put back on Catalina. Going to try that tonight and see if it will work.

Also shout out to @MyAZPool because your information and images posted here is invaluable and makes me confident I can do this upgrade without much issue.

Quick note on my system:
48,000 gal
All pentair equip
Intellitouch i7+3 with screen logic migrating to Intellicenter i10PS (ethernet hardwired)
Screenlogic (not communicating due to board issue)
Sand Filter
Intellichem
IC60
Intelliflo VS
Gas Heater
5 intellivalves
3 motorized valves (swim lane on / off and pool to spa)
2 hand valves (fountains)
Del Ozone generator (dead right now)
Nature 2G Mineral

Thanks,

Chris
 
Welcome to TFP.

No, there is no migration ability from other systems.

As long as you keep notes on what is connected to each AUX high voltage relay the setup should be straight forward.

You have to page through your IntelliTouch screens and record or take pics of all the settings and schedules.

Today I installed a new main board in my IntelliCenter and needed to setup the configuration starting w th a blank system. It is straight forward but not intuitive how you do some things like link an AUX circuit with a schedule and then set a pump speed to run.

First thing you should do when you power up the IntelliCenter is update the firmware. The board will probably have 1.047 on it. You need to use a 4MB or 8MB USB stick to update it to 1.064 and then to 2.017. Once you are on 2.017 then you can configure your AUX circuits, setup any Feature Circuits, Set Schedules, and set Pump speeds.

If you get confused we are here to help.
 
Allen,

Thank you so much for the response. About what I figured. I am pretty lucky my spa is built into the pool right at normal water level and everything runs on one pump, so schedules are not complicated. My valve positions and sheer number of them are the main concern, so thanks for the advice on the Aux.
 
Valves and actuators do not use AUX relays. There is another section for configuring valves.
 
Sorry, I knew that. I have everything mapped out from photos of existing board and new intellicenter. Even wrote notes all of the PDF Manual. Thank you though for keeping me in line on my terminology as it will save me if I need help. :)
 
@cousrey,
Welcome and thanks much for the shout out! I'm glad you found the information useful. And congrats on choosing to make the transition from I-Touch to IntelliCenter.
You'll find that setting up macros in IntelliCenter are far easier than the IntelliTouch btw.

That said, if I were in your shoes, I'd copy how you have things setup in your I-Touch just as Allen has described, since there are no import protocols from one to the other.
You're right... The IntelliCenter documentation is a bit "lacking and confusing" to say the least.

If it were me, I would tackle this project using the following steps.
1. Shutoff the breaker at the main house panel that feeds power to your load center.
2. Complete all of the hardware changes in the low-voltage compartment.
3. Once, all of the hardware switch-overs are complete and you've "double-checked" all of your connections, you're ready to power up the IntelliCenter.
4. Once you've applied power to the IntelliCenter, you'll need to accept the license agreement on the touch-pad and move on to the setup wizard which you'll find at Home > Settings > Advanced System Configuration > Wizard.
5. The wizard will walk you through the setup steps but you can follow along on PP-94 of the Users Guide as well.
6. Once you've configured the basics (to include network connectivity) and you've upgraded your firmware to v2.017 per Allen's suggestions above, then you should probably be able to perform all of the rest of your more advanced configurations (Additional Feature Circuits, Circuit Groups (Macros) and Schedules using the web-client on your desktop/laptop (IntelliCenter). Much better than standing there at the touchpanel in the heat.

Let us know if you have questions or concerns and no doubt you will get plenty of help here.
Have fun ;)
I think you'll enjoy the IntelliCenter.
r.
 
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You are so welcome. I have followed the recommendations and I got an add-on valve card and Coms card for the Intellivalve updates. Pretty excited 5 years later to see what they do there.

Will follow those steps for sure and appreciate the offer of assistance.

Chris
 
Well y'all it took about 7 hours all in but it's done for now. Still programming and figuring valves etc, but everything is operating. I had to take breaks as the heat kicked up and do some real work :)

Issues I ran into were mainly first time working on that device, prior installers not doing a good job and then being down on my knees for most of the time. Thank God for the foam planting mat. Thats what she said. ;). Next time they will be mounting it up so no bending. Race way was a mess and too much extra wire in most cases and in others had to pull to get there. Things wired together on com ports as well. A ledge would have been nice or longer wires so I could sit one board on top while I pulled and placed the various connectors.

Getting the SCG ground back on post fuse changes was much harder than it had to be until I found the right magnetized driver. Lost a few screws.

Getting wires back into Aux wiring after transformer change was major pain. Red wires were too large and the black wire was wired into it. Was worried I was going to strip the screw. Took a break and came back and got it next try.

There could be more room in the cabinet for all the wires (valve expansion card 7 electric and two manual to be converted now that I can have 10 valves) and COM add-on and will do another one once Intellivalves are using the green/yellow. It's a total rats nest, but everything is talking after a few hours. Placement of ethernet port is unbelievable bad. Should be on an end near the raceway. From a design standpoint they should redesign the card to take in consider raceway vs power vs aux. Intellichem and Intellichlor tools about two hours post setup to show.

Now, I just have to figure out why my Intellichem is reading low ORP and PH. Note that it was doing that before and I didnt expect this to solve it. About a point lower than reality per sticks and the Blue Leslie's machine that I now have at my house. Have a feeling its the wires that go into Intellichem as I bought new probes and probe wires. Just keep working back.

All in all not too bad and like the new system plus I feel like I can fix or add things as I want now without having to call a tech.

Thanks again for the advice and I'll come back and let you know if I need assistance. Doing features tomorrow and hope it's easy to get the valves working correctly.

ETA - One other time consuming issue was figuring out that my Ubiquiti system wasn't blocking my direct ethernet connection, but that it was broken somewhere from pool equip to home run. Thats why my screen logic wasn't working either before upgrade. So thank Penatir for the High power transceiver deal. Assembled it and got everything hooked up. Had to run by high voltage side though because of aforementioned raceway issues, but it's shielded and in wall rated so should be good. They also dont tell you that you dont need to connect to wifi if you use the transceiver deal. It pulled the IP the minute I turned on the power.
 
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@MyAZPool I had a question from your Njs thread. There is a post about the Florida Sunseeker lights and I look at Github and saw that the software now allows control of those lights. @rstrouse said something about an external relay to make this work. I currently have those light setup just as they were for Intellibrite on AUX 3 and 4, but to change colors you have to click them on and off, which is annoying. Do you have any idea what he means by an external relay? Thanks in advance.

I would probably run the software on my hoobs that is connected to my network already to run some IOT stuff.
 
@MyAZPool I had a question from your Njs thread. There is a post about the Florida Sunseeker lights and I look at Github and saw that the software now allows control of those lights. @rstrouse said something about an external relay to make this work. I currently have those light setup just as they were for Intellibrite on AUX 3 and 4, but to change colors you have to click them on and off, which is annoying. Do you have any idea what he means by an external relay? Thanks in advance.

I would probably run the software on my hoobs that is connected to my network already to run some IOT stuff.
@cousrey,
I don't know in what context @rstrouse was referring to, so I will defer to him to expand upon his own comments. He may have been referring to someone that doesn't already have an automation panel with its own internal relays, as you do (njspC does not require an automation panel per se to function), but I'm not sure.

I don't know much if anything about the Florida Sunseeker line. However, my guess is that they work similar to IntelliBrites or J&J ColorSplash lights. Each color or light show requires a certain number of "clicks" as you refer to or (On/Off sequences), to arrive at and stay on a particular color or light show.

However, that does not need to be done manually each time. You can use your IntelliCenter (or njspC) to automate that process (pp14, IntelliCenter User's Guide). For instance, if you activate the "American" light show, then the IntelliCenter will turn the light on/off (via the relay), as many times as it requires, in order to arrive at that light show. Same with fixed colors. Or you can let your slow light show run (I don't know what that is on the Sunseeker) and go through the various color patterns and once you find a "shade" of color you like (custom color), you can activate that light 13 times (On/Off), and it will remember that setting. If you change that color and then want to go back to your original "custom" color, then 14 "clicks will take you back to it. That's the way my J&J light works anyway and it emulates the IntelliBrite for the most part.

Hopefully, your Sunseeker works in a similar way but I'm not sure, so I would refer you to someone that has an IntelliCenter AND Florida Sunseeker setup.
Thanks...
r.
 
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Thank you sir. I am going to try and match the sun seeker to intellibrite. And write that down so I know the clicks and can then set accordingly.
 
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Thank you sir. I am going to try and match the sun seeker to intellibrite. And write that down so I know the clicks and can then set accordingly.
Sure... Give it a go and let's see what happens.
Experimentation is the fun part when it comes to pool automation (at least it was for me).
Please let us know here what you come up with for future reference.
Thanks!
r.
 
Quick question @MyAZPool. Not sure what info I need to provide, but I would like to be able to Drain my Spa and Fill my Spa as a Feature Circuit. However, the valves that do so are intake and return since I have P/S combo. Is there anyway to program around the limitation within the web app? When I go to Valves to add the Feature Circuit, it is greyed out to rotates pool spa. My assumption is that with them in the intake and return ports they are locked from behaving any other way.

Ideally to drain Spa, it would open Spa intake (pool intake off) and close spa return (pool return on) and vice versa for Spa Fill. Latter would be valuable when too much water has spilled over from spa into pool and going to pad to do it manually is irritating especially in winter. Thanks again as always and apologies if I am peppering you with questions.
 
Quick question @MyAZPool. Not sure what info I need to provide, but I would like to be able to Drain my Spa and Fill my Spa as a Feature Circuit. However, the valves that do so are intake and return since I have P/S combo. Is there anyway to program around the limitation within the web app? When I go to Valves to add the Feature Circuit, it is greyed out to rotates pool spa. My assumption is that with them in the intake and return ports they are locked from behaving any other way.

Ideally to drain Spa, it would open Spa intake (pool intake off) and close spa return (pool return on) and vice versa for Spa Fill. Latter would be valuable when too much water has spilled over from spa into pool and going to pad to do it manually is irritating especially in winter. Thanks again as always and apologies if I am peppering you with questions.

@cousrey
That's easy (well sort of :p)
You're right. It "normally" will not let you do that if you have things configured "by-the-book".

You can do what you are referring to, but you will need to rethink how you use the IntelliCenter slightly (and "cheat"). Remember, the IntelliCenter (PS models) are programmed to rotate (both) your Intake and Return valves when you switch from one "body of water" to another. i.e. Pool to Spa and Spa to Pool. Okay...

When I learned this fact early on, I didn't like it. In fact, I hated it. I wanted "more control" over my Intake and Return valve actuators. How dare IntelliCenter tell me how I should run my pool. I mean, if I want to empty my spa with the tap of a button, I figured that was "my call", and not Pentair's.

So, I decided to find a way around this Orwellian behavior of Pentairs'. Who do they think they are anyway? :unsure:

Now, I may be shunned by the "pool automation gods" for my unorthodox methodology but here goes.

1. I unplugged my intake and return valve actuators from the designated Intake and Return Valve sockets on my I10 P/S daughter card.

2 Next, I plugged those valve actuators into the Valve A and Valve B sockets instead. I created two Feature Circuits called P/S Suction and P/S Return and associated those Feature Circuits with Valve A and Valve B respectively.
1689380810246.png

3. The remainder of my IntelliValves are designated Valve C through Valve F.

4. Now then, If the only valve actuators you presently have are your Suction and Return valves, then you can do this without an additional purchase. However, if you have more than those two valve actuators, then you'll need to obtain and install a valve expansion module.

1689381192307.png
Can be purchased here btw: Pentair IntelliCenter Valve Expansion Module

5. When you want to use your spa normally, then you will create a "Circuit Group" (macro) and embed the P/S Intake and P/S Return Feature Circuits within that Circuit Group (along with any other Feature Circuits that you want on, when you use your spa (i.e. Heater, Heater Bypass valve, Spa light, etc. etc.)) Doing so will rotate your pool/spa Intake and Return valves normally just as if you had them plugged into the Intake and Return valve plugs on your daughter card. Also, don't forget to embed the SPA circuit as well so your spa heat temperature control will work as intended.

6. However, if you wanted to open the Pool/Spa Intake valve and keep the Pool/Spa Return valve closed, then you could simply activate the Feature Circuit associated with the Intake valve (in my case "P/S Suction"). Water would then be drawn entirely from your spa and returned to your pool.

7. Conversely, if you wanted to fill your spa up, you could open the Pool/Spa Return valve by activating the Feature Circuit associated with the Return Valve (in my case "P/S Return). Water would be drawn entirely from the pool and diverted to the spa.

I hope that makes sense. But be careful with these methods... If your drawing water entirely from your spa and diverting it to the pool, you run the risk of running your pump dry if you're not keeping a close eye on things. Remember, you've essentially "bypassed" the built-in safety features by using this method and so you're the only thing now that stands in the way of a "mishap" LOL...

Same if you are filling your spa up from your pool, you may overfill your spa.

I guess that's not so bad if you have a spillover spa and you're not running the pump at a high RPM (might be a cool looking waterfall though... LOL) But, if you have an old school "detached" in-ground spa as I do, your backyard/patio will quickly become a chlorinated lake until such time as the water level in the pool goes below the skimmer and then the pump runs dry again. :p

The other downside to this method is it may not allow your "spillover" feature to operate as it was intended to originally. Not sure 100% as I do not use that feature anyway.

I hope that's at least insightful....
r.

BTW, before unplugging or plugging in those valve actuators to the sockets on the circuit boards, insure you power down your IntelliCenter first. That goes for anything else as well. It could have disastrous effects on equipment otherwise. Ask me how I know. :p
 
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Thank you again. Your assistance is invaluable. Need to send you a bottle of your favorite. I had the same idea and I already had to buy the Valve expansion card and I bought the com port card as well. Once it's not 100+ daily, I am going to crimp those intellivalve green yellows so I can connect those in anticipation of the upgrade. I have 7 actuators now and two more to add if I want the whole pool automated. So this does present an issue down the road although since we never use the fountain in the spa (because it requires a long piece of PVC I will just not automate that one although it would fill a lot faster using the jets and fountain).

Appreciate your screenshots and tips. My spa is in the pool itself (dead center in the shallow end) and is right at water level when spa is running to overflow. So no worries on the overflow as it's the intended home position on the intellivalve. The other scenario dry pump is the more likely issue, but unless my pool is below skimmers it will overflow back into spa. So I should be good as long as I look at my pool. ;)

Just read this again on my computer before I do it in the AM and thanks for that last line about powering down. Would not have even thought about that given its in low voltage compartment.
 
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Switched up the Valve ports on the board. Had to use Valve H for Return because Wire was not long enough and I am not messing with the raceway until I add intellivalves to replace old two position actuators. Sometime in the fall.

Think it's all programmed right and will test tonight late when it's back below 100.
 
Switched up the Valve ports on the board. Had to use Valve H for Return because Wire was not long enough and I am not messing with the raceway until I add intellivalves to replace old two position actuators. Sometime in the fall.

Think it's all programmed right and will test tonight late when it's back below 100.
Excellent.
100 degrees sounds good to me right about now. Heck, that's my pool temp. :laughblue:
1689447135081.png

r.
 
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