Intellitouch i9 no lights, appears dead

scipio05

Member
Jun 10, 2019
7
CA
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
System was working fine until it did not turn on at all one day. No lights light up on the main panel and it looks as if there was no power. I reset the breaker in my main home panel and verified power was back on the circuit but intellitouch won't turn on. High voltage breakers inside the intellitouch panel did not flip, nor did the 4 low voltage breakers pop. Anyone have any ideas what I can do to troubleshoot? I have a voltage meter and can probably replace components if needed.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1404.jpeg
    IMG_1404.jpeg
    336 KB · Views: 8
  • IMG_1425.jpeg
    IMG_1425.jpeg
    461 KB · Views: 8
  • IMG_1409.jpeg
    IMG_1409.jpeg
    320.2 KB · Views: 7
Wondering if this is sign of a short in the 12v cables? Odd if so or maybe I'm just imagining things?

@ogdento I hear you're our guru for intellitouch, could use your guidance
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1418.jpeg
    IMG_1418.jpeg
    90.5 KB · Views: 7
Here's another angle, looks like brown wires going into solar temp sensor also look burned?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1415.jpeg
    IMG_1415.jpeg
    315.6 KB · Views: 7
Disconnect all of the high voltage relays and actuators from the board. Label each wire with where it was connected before disconnecting. Also disconnect the temperature sensors and heater wires. Basically disconnect everything except for the power harness and see if the board comes to life.

If the board is still dead then @ogdento will need to take you through component level checks.
 
05,

The first thing you want to test is that the load center has 240 volts at the two hot leads coming in from your main circuit breaker panel. You test between L1 and L2. Do not test between L1 and ground and then L2 and ground as that can give you a false reading.

I'd also take that suspect power cable off and see what it looks like inside.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Thank you for the tips, I tested today and I did get 240 coming into the load center so that's good. I focused on the 12vac, 18vac and 24 vac connector as that seemed to be fried. Testing voltage I got 29.4 for the 24va, 20.7 for the 18V and 0 for the 12V. I cleaner out the corrosion on the connectors and measured 13.6 at the 12V terminal. I connected everything again and lights went on! Everything seems to be back now so it was def the 12V terminal.

  • Anyone else ever experience something similar before?
  • Noticed a brown liquid near the board, no idea where it came from as it doesn't seem to have come from the outside but guessing this is what caused the short and corrosion?
  • Are the voltages reading higher than 12v, 18v and 24v normal or should I be concerned?

Adding more pics
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1444.jpeg
    IMG_1444.jpeg
    350.1 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_1447.jpeg
    IMG_1447.jpeg
    371.8 KB · Views: 7
05,

Transformer voltages are just ballpark voltages. Close is usually close enough.

No idea what the brown goop is, as nothing in that area to leak it..

Glad you got it fixed.. :goodjob:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Noticed a brown liquid near the board, no idea where it came from as it doesn't seem to have come from the outside but guessing this is what caused the short and corrosion?
Sure looks like rodent urine, any missing knockouts on the panel that would allow access?
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.