Intellichlor IC40 SWG Falsely Reporting 7500 ppm salt level (true level is 3,000ppm), not outputting Chlorine, and High Salt light is flashing.

[jasondestiny11]

Jason,

I "check" my cell every six months, as that is when I clean my filter. I clean with weak MA, if dirty, but most of the time it is not necessary.

If you have been using MA to clean the cell every 3 months, then at 8 years your cell is done. There is no coating left on the plates.

I keep my TA between 50 and 60 so that I have a slightly negative CSI reading.. This keeps the cell from scaling and from generating a bunch of white calcium bits into the pool.

I suggest that you re-think how you are balancing your pool water. The TFP pool care process is not at all like what the Pool Store uses..

You should check out our Pool School.

Pool Care Basics

Thanks,

Jim R.

Also, my MA mixture has always been weak, like 10 parts to 1 (really slow, but effective). I’m going to miss watching that bad boy “boil” the scaling off. It was actually one of my favorite pool chores. In all reality, if my issue is resolved by the SWG replacement, 8 years is reasonable in my opinion, even if the MA cleanings ultimately do it in after 8 years. My friends’ SWG typically failed in 4-5 years and they have ic40’s as well, although their pools are much larger than mine and they have to generate more chlorine than I do. They also have pool guys doing the work for them, and I have always had a hands on approach…lots of pride in it for me.

 

[jasondestiny11]

Update: I replaced the SWG with a Brand New IC40 and it resolved my issue. There is no longer a high salt flashing light and The Salt Level Measurement in the Easy Touch is now accurate (+150ppm compared to test) but that’s likely because the pool temperature is 80 and I read that every degree above or below 77 will throw off calculations a bit on IC40. It took about 12 hours before the Salt reading settled in the ET, but I was expecting that. I really appreciate all of your feedback gentleman.