Indoor pool chemical problem

[singingpond]

Also borax is preferred for raising pH. (That's probably what "pH up" is just in a different box and higher price)

A lot (most?) of pool store pH Up product is sodium carbonate. That is what the OP reported using previously. Yes, it does raise TA a bit too, but that sounds OK in this situation, since TA is still very low.

To the OP -- if you want to raise pH with minimal effect on TA, then borax is indeed preferable (the "20 Mule Team" laundry aid will do fine). Again, you can check PoolMath (down near the bottom for effect of adding chemicals), or review the link that Isaac (I believe) provided earlier in this thread.

 

[Hopew]

Okay, the granular CYA stabilizer I purchased actually says Clorox Pool and Spa Chlorine Stabilizer but its 100% CYA. I also got some bleach. I will start on this in the morning and get accurate readings from my test kit. Having to be out of pocket tonight with my daughter.

 

[Isaac-1]

sounds good, just don't let your chlorine drop too low, not sure where you are at now on FC or when you last tested

 

[Hopew]

I will get new readings before doing it. May can tonight!

 

[Hopew]

Okay, when using my test kit, FC is 2. CYA (the solution never looked cloudy to me) is at least 30 because I saw the black dot at the bottom all the way up and it never faded. pH is 7.0

 

[singingpond]

If the black dot never faded, that makes the CYA less than 30; possibly close to 0. Look at the markings on the tube - the higher numbers are closer to the bottom. The more opaque the mixture, the higher the CYA; the clearer it is, the lower the CYA level. I don't remember what level Isaac recommended for an indoor pool - I would aim for half that amount initially, in case there is already some CYA in your water. Did you already read about putting CYA in a sock, in front of a return?

 

[Hopew]

TA is 20, CH is 170

- - - Updated - - -

Yes, I'm going to get FC up first and then do the CYA. I just put about 1/4 of a gallon of liquid bleach and will test FC in the morning again. And, then I will put the CYA stabilizer in the sock tomorrow.

 

[Hopew]

Since I have an indoor pool with hardly any sunlight, is there even a need for CYA??

 

[Isaac-1]

Yes, this is one of those common pool industry mistakes, CYA acts not only to protect chlorine from sunlight, but also to buffer the harsh effects of chlorine. This gets back to that suggested CYA range of 20-30 ppm CYA, and the preference of the TF Testkits CYA test with the viewtube that reads down to 20 ppm.

Here are a few threads on the topic Zero CYA in an indoor pool - chicago winter

No CYA in Indoor Pools Resulting Air Quality

Help, chloramines!!

p.s. this topic of how CYA works just came up tonight Why daily bleach additions? so I am not really sure how that thread will progress as it is ongoing

 

[Hopew]

Okay, that makes sense now. So, my water level seemed to drop some so I did a backwash and I'm filling back up to the appropriate level. I will then check FC as I did add some bleach last night. I will get it to around 4 and then do the CYA.

- - - Updated - - -

So, adding the CYA should help with the smell as well, huh?

 

[Isaac-1]

It should, however smell is usually related to CC, and you may need some form of supplemental oxidation, either Ozone or UV for mechanical system options or you can use MPS chlorine free shock as a chemical option. You should just be aware that MPS shows up as CC on the common test so can confuse things. Taylor does off a special MPS elimination test kit, but as I recall it costs about $50, I have one, but don't use it often, since I rarely find I need to use MPS and when I do it shows up on the FAS-DPD chlorine test for about 3 days afterward as CC.

 

[Hopew]

Do any of you guys have an electric heater for your pool?

 

[Isaac-1]

My pool previously had an electric heater many years, ago, but it was removed after it died, currently I only have Solar heat which allows typically for a late March - Mid November Swim season. I am considering adding a heatpump back also.

Ike

 

[Hopew]

My chlorine isnt moving very much with the liquid bleach. Its stitting below 2 right now. So, I put a tablet in the skimmer and will remove in 2 hours and then test again later.
My heater is an electric heater from aqua cool and its great, I keep the water at 92 degrees but we use it daily. I was just wondering what others kept theres at for indoor pools. I keep the room at 80 degrees.

- - - Updated - - -

I did add some CYA stabilizer and its up a little but needs more as well.

 

[JamesW]

Does the bleach label say sodium hypochlorite ......8.25%?

 

[Hopew]

Yes, it does say 8.25% Sodium Hypochlorite. I put a tablet in the skimmer for 2 hours and I'm still at 2. Should I just let that tablet stay in skimmer longer?

 

[Isaac-1]

Trichlor tablets are very slow dissolving, if you need to raise FC and don't want to effect anything else bleach is best, a gallon of 8.25% should raise your FC by about 2.5 ppm. For bleach you should slowly pour it in in front of moving water at a return. Bleach is heavier than water so you don't want it sinking to the bottom and bleaching out your liner. Sorry I have to go now, not sure when I will be back online as we had a death in the family this morning.

 

[Hopew]

Sorry about the death!!! Thanks.

 

[kimkats]

Hi Hope! I will be keeping an eye on your thread if you need any help. It really seems as if you have a good handle on what you are doing now. Good job!

Can you please put which test kit you have in your siggy? (settings-upper right, edit signature-middle left). That will help any that come along later in your thread. Nice to be able to see it at a glance.

 

[Isaac-1]

Hi, I just had a second to check in here, and wanted to thank both of you. You are in good hands with Kimkats

Ike