I'm trying hard...

[tim5055]

You say you have a Taylor test kit, but seem to post numbers that look more like pool store testing (ie 7.75 pH). Please use your test kit, and do not trust the stores.

You have CYA 80 but say "Just make sure Fc stay around the 4-6 range?". Time for a little more reading in Pool School. I would go back over these:

ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

We really want you to understand what you are doing and why you are doing it. To quote Dave, Site Owner of TFP:

TFPC tenet - Never put chemistry in your pool when you do not know the outcome

TFPC tenet - Pool Stores can and will sell you most anything....whether it helps or hurts your pool.....they just don't know any better

Logic would then encourage us to stay out of pool stores if we want to manage our water via TFPC.

That may come across as being kind of a you-know-what, but it is factual and advice we teach every day.

 

[Motojager]

You say you have a Taylor test kit, but seem to post numbers that look more like pool store testing (ie 7.75 pH). Please use your test kit, and do not trust the stores.

You have CYA 80 but say "Just make sure Fc stay around the 4-6 range?". Time for a little more reading in Pool School. I would go back over these:

ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

We really want you to understand what you are doing and why you are doing it. To quote Dave, Site Owner of TFP:

Not pool store numbers. These are from Taylor test kit and hach hq30d with ph probe. Thanks for the help

 

[Motojager]

Re: What to attack first?

Your TA is fine. Recommended range is 70-90, not 100. Recommended Levels

Do you have a SWG? If not your CYA is way too high. Unfortunately the only way to fix this is drain and refill. That is what I would attack first. A 30% drain and refill should bring you around 50-60. If you retest and your above 50, do another 10-20% drain. Also your FC is low for that CYA level unless you have a SWG.

Unfortunately due to the area partial drain is not possible(water restrictions in northern CA). Just means I will burn through more chlorine with the high CYA right?

 

[Texas Splash]

When you have to SLAM - yes. More bleach (FC) is required to match the high CYA level. After that, when your water is clear and normal, you might actually use less bleach with a moderately higher CYA to protect FC from the sun. I was reviewing other threads earlier today where some people chose to have a CYA a little higher than what's on the Chlorine/CYA Chart for their pool. They do so to save some FC on a normal day knowing that if they ever have to SLAM, it will require much more bleach.

 

[Motojager]

When you have to SLAM - yes. More bleach (FC) is required to match the high CYA level. After that, when your water is clear and normal, you might actually use less bleach with a moderately higher CYA to protect FC from the sun. I was reviewing other threads earlier today where some people chose to have a CYA a little higher than what's on the Chlorine/CYA Chart for their pool. They do so to save some FC on a normal day knowing that if they ever have to SLAM, it will require much more bleach.

never had to slam maybe I'm lucky. Have kept chlorine at 4 ppm water has always been super clear and blue. Though I admit after what I have read here that it's going green overnight if chlorine is not kept up to 6+ ppm main reason is chlorine got to hot so lost its effectiveness. I add a lot of chlorine often. But 4ppm is the most it goes up to. I will keep adding and chasing the game. Thanks to all that have helped as I am learning a lot about pools. I previously have some experience in water testing but more based on recycled water for construction use.

 

[Swampwoman]

Moto, its not that it necessarily goes green the nanosecond its not at the recc level, its that the recc level ensures SANITATION.

Just because you've been fortunate enough not to get algae does not mean our your water is as effectively sanitized with prompt kill times of pathogens as it would be if you were actually following the cya:FC chart in my signature, which I had cited as needing a min level of 6 pm fir a cya of 80...which normally would require dosing to 9 ppm daily to maintain.

For your staining issues, you may also wish to be adding MA more frequently to try to keep the ph consistently lower at 7.2.

 

[kimkats]

I do an overnight test about every other week during the summer just because it is such a good tool to make sure there is nothing growing in my pool.

Kim

 

[Cant stand this pool]

Quick question - how does a water fall effect the PH level?

 

[JVTrain]

A waterfall is a source of quite a bit of aeration. If you have a higher than recommended TA level, aeration will drive the pH up faster. If your TA is in the recommended range or lower, your pH will rise less with aeration. So... a water fall MAY drive up pH faster, dependent on TA level.

 

[Cant stand this pool]

Thats why when reading another thread I saw that someone had recommended aeration to help raise very low PH..

Interesting stuff. There is a ton of great information on this forum. Thanks to all those who help us!

 

[kimkats]

Thank YOU for listening and learning!

Kim