IC40 Issues

[KC_C]

Does anyone else have recurring issues with Pentair IC40 salt cells? I’ve replaced 3 in 7 pool seasons. I‘m currently having the following issues:

Flashing salt light - indicates high salt level (its not high) or lack of communication with the control panel
Red flow light - indicating a lack of flow, the pump is pumping and the flow switch checks good

Any thoughts beyond replacing yet another expensive piece of equipment? Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

 

[Jimrahbe]

KC,

I have three saltwater pools. All of them have IntelliChlor cells. So far I have replaced all three. One lasted about 9 years, one over 8 years and the last one over 7 years. In general, most cell last 5 to 7 years. Not sure why you are having such bad results.

You list three separate issues, so I want to confirm things..

Normally if you have a red flow light nothing else will work. When the cell is first powered on the salt lights will flash like a railroad crossing. During this time the cell is checking the salt level. Does this happen on your cell? Are you confusing this with a high salt failure?

When you say you have a communications issue what does that mean? Can you adjust the output % from your automation? If so, you have communication. Does the cell report the salt level on your automation?

If you have good actual flow through the cell, and the red flow light is on, it could be as simple as the flow switch is bad. This is an easy DIY repair. You just need to make sure you get the newer 3-wire flow switch, and NOT the original 4-wire flow switch.

How do you know the "actual" salt level in your pool, and what is it???

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[KC_C]

KC,

I have three saltwater pools. All of them have IntelliChlor cells. So far I have replaced all three. One lasted about 9 years, one over 8 years and the last one over 7 years. In general, most cell last 5 to 7 years. Not sure why you are having such bad results.

You list three separate issues, so I want to confirm things..

Normally if you have a red flow light nothing else will work. When the cell is first powered on the salt lights will flash like a railroad crossing. During this time the cell is checking the salt level. Does this happen on your cell? Are you confusing this with a high salt failure?

When you say you have a communications issue what does that mean? Can you adjust the output % from your automation? If so, you have communication. Does the cell report the salt level on your automation?

If you have good actual flow through the cell, and the red flow light is on, it could be as simple as the flow switch is bad. This is an easy DIY repair. You just need to make sure you get the newer 3-wire flow switch, and NOT the original 4-wire flow switch.

How do you know the "actual" salt level in your pool, and what is it???

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thank you for the reply Jim.

To address, in order, your responses…
1. Red flow light is on and I’m not making chlorine. Cell turns on like normal (railroad crossing), settles out over time, but flow light stays red (this is a relatively new issue) and the salt level “good” light (only) flashes (been happening for a while now). Recently, the salt tested at 3400. It is not high for this unit.
2. The communication error is from the screen logic app. The salt level on screen logic is reported as 0. On my system alert page I see “Chlorinator: Communication Lost”
3. I replaced the flow switch with a known good one (tested with a meter for continuity) and I tested the one I removed the same way and it was good as well.
4. I don’t know the actual salt level at this time as the water hasn’t been tested recently. This has been going on for awhile now. When it first began, I had the water tested and the salt level was low if anything.

Thank for your help.

 

[Jimrahbe]

KC,

Not in any order..

The salt level reading zero is really a timing error where the EasyTouch only waits so long before moving on. This is a known issue and replacing the flow switch will fix it about 70% of the time. I have this problem from time to time, and if I just reboot the cell it will work again. Mine is just not quite as bad as yours. Only use the new 3-wire flow switch..

Inside the Flow Switch assembly is a thermistor which measures the water temp. The cell uses this info to adjust the salt level measurements. If your salt is reading too high or two low compared to the your 'actual' salt level, then most likely this thermistor is bad. I suggest that you buy the new style flow switch with the 3-wire cable, instead of the older design that had a 4-wire cable.

The main problem is the red flow light. Either the light is bad, the connection to the flow switch is bad, or the cell is bad. Here is a quick test.

Set the cell output to 50%. If the cell is working, the 'cell' light will come on for 2.5 minutes and then it will be off for 2.5 minutes and this will just keep repeating. If the cell light works as it should, it means that most likely the flow light is bad, but the cell realizes it has good flow.

If the cell light never works, it means the cell thinks there is no flow and nothing will work. In this case, a good test is to short the Red and Black wires coming from the cell and going to the flow switch. Connecting the Red and Black wires together should turn the flow light green. If it does, it means the flow switch or its connections are bad. OR... it could be in backwards.. Keeps in mind that in some cases the whole cell can be installed backwards and the idiot that did that has turned the flow switch backwards to make it work correctly. Just something to look out for.. If connecting the red and black wires together does not make the flow light turn green, then the cell itself is bad...

Thanks,

Jim R.