IAuqalink is Offline

[poolguy15]

Sharon - If the router has exactly identical settings, then you will not need to rerun the setup tool. I thought you had replaced the router very recently and you were trying to connect to it for the first time to no avail. Since you've connected to this router before, then you do not need to run the setup tool. Do you know how many lights you're getting on the iAqaulink jbox, by chance? This would require physically being able to see it, something your housekeeper may be able to assist with.

Also, if the housekeeper is comfortable, have her reset everything as I detailed in my above post.

 

[Sharon11]

I finally solved my "Offline" connectivity problem. It ended up being the Network Authentication setting in the router. It was only set to "Open System Authentication" (by default) and so I changed it to "BOTH" which now includes "Shared Key Authentication" and it instantly recognized the iAqualink and has been working flawlessly thus far.

This was no thanks to Jandy - they were of no help whatsoever. I did end up getting one tech to fully admit there are wireless issues with the unit. He even suggested that I purchase a $50 adapter by TrendNet that requires separate power and attach to the iAqualink unit that is 20 feet high under my roof overhang! I just kept messing with the settings until it finally recognized it. Thank goodness I was able to remotely connect to my router and change settings from here in Oregon!

Sharon

 

[Dixit]

Good to hear. I dont think Ive messed with that setting, but then again I dont have VZ based modem/router, I have a separate cable modem for my internet then I have the Linksys E4200 (which I took the stock firmware off and put the more adjustable dd-wrt one).

You will finally get to fully use it and not worry about disconnects! Mines been rock solid since it was installed. Only issue I got now is that my RS8 panel inside the house is acting really flakey last few weeks, it seems to show that pump is on, screen acts frozen, but pump isnt on. I have to kill the breaker and reactivate the breaker, it resets the entire iAqualink and then the RS8 panel works, but only for a few hours, then back to acting wierd and freezing. Not sure how this RS8 panel all the sudden has issues. I cant even start any devices from it when it is frozen. I know its this panel because the phone has no issues connecting, can start/stop any device.

Dixit

 

[Sharon11]

Yes, so glad to have finally taken care of glitch. Have you discussed your RS8 problem with Jandy? That sounds like a real headache! Did you upgrade your PCB panel to the Revision R? I know it has to be Revision "R". I had to order the iAqualink with the optional upgrade revision to "R".

Sharon

 

[Dixit]

I installed it with the new PCB. It came with Rev R (just checked it as well). This thing was working just fine for the first few months, weather been getting cold and now its acting flakey. But the RS8 panel is not in the cold obviously, its inside the house.

I would call Jandy but they are of no help, if you are a home owner, Ive noticed they offer no help, they are very quick to blame you or say call a pool professional and have them call Jandy. They dont really want to help and refuse to warranty it unless it was installed by a pool professional.

I may re-wire the RS8, maybe move the RS8 wiring to the other connector that is on the board. But right now technically all 4 connections are used since I have the JBOX connected, Aquapure Ei, Jandy LX heater, and the RS8 panel inside the house. Maybe move some stuff around just to see if it follows any connectors or is it just this RS8 panel is really just dying. I notice then when you go to "Help" on iAqualink, it shows the RevR as mentioned before, but under the RS485 devices, it only shows the iAqualink and the Jandy LX heater. I know the Aquapure doesnt show up unless its on (cause its wired to completely shutdown when pump is off). Interesting how the RS8 is not showing, its also frozen right now.

Dixit

 

[Sharon11]

Agreed! Jandy is of NO HELP! Ridiculous since we the "pool owners" are the ones keeping them in business...

 

[poolguy15]

Sharon - Glad you've got your iAqualink up and running.

Dixit - Your controller may say RS8, but that is the OS and not the model. Which model is it? What were you looking for Jandy to go over with you? You any good with a meter?

 

[Dixit]

I'm really mechanical as well as electrically inclined. This is the inside panel that is frozen right now. I was going to check the wires on the PCB side make sure they are nice and solid.

Dixit

 

[BlazeRegulator]

[attachment=0:30znfaue]all-button comm ts.JPG[/attachment:30znfaue]

Check voltage between pins 1 & 4. You want about 8-10 vdc.
- If this checks out, check continuity on your wires by tieing pin 2 to pin 1 and pin 3 to pin 4 on one end and test at the other.

It'll either be a bad wire or bad controller.

Hope this helps.

 

[Dixit]

Im getting the right voltage as well as all wires are connected. So Im going to say this controller is toast. When I reset it takes a good 5mins for the lights to all go off. That doesnt seem normal. Im going to see if I can get a new inside control panel.

Dixit

 

[Dixit]

I "may" have this fixed. I was clearly getting 10vdc between 1 and 4. So I knew those were fine. Then I saw another thread about how if I saw the RevR screen on the inside LCD and all the lights remained on, then it has a communication problem. So I decided to try something. The wire used on the LCD display had two extra unused wires. So decided to use them for pin 2 and 3. Put the same ones on the PCB side and powered it up and within 30secs the LCD was working. Before I would have all lights on and the Revision screen on for a god 5-10mins before it would start showing data and then freeze. Hopefully this works. Because normally it would freeze anywhere from 30mins to 24hrs later.

Dixit

 

[Dixit]

Well it worked for 30 some hours, and its frozen again. The whole time it was working it shows up a "CONTROL PANEL 1" on the RS485 devices under iaqualink help page. Now its frozen and I notice its no longer on that help page so this thing has to be on its way out or something. What sucks is these control panels are not cheap, looking around, even used ones on ebay are going for $300 or so.

Dixit

 

[poolguy15]

Dixit -

You said you were using extra wires from your inside LCD for 2 and 3. Where are these extra wires coming from? There are only 4 wires tied to the RS485 connector which connects the All Button PCB to the Aqualink RS board...You said you checked voltage between 1 and 4 - does that mean you tied 2 to 1 and 3 to 4 and checked for continuity? Also, since the issue is occurring again, have you tested the new wires for continuity? I'm very curious to know which wires these are.

If the All Button PCB has failed, why do you need to replace it if you're already using iAqualink? I assume you do not have a variable speed pump since you're thinking about replacing your All Button controller with an All Button controller. All Buttons controllers do not have variable speed functionality. If you ever wish to upgrade to a variable speed pump, your programming would need to come from your iAqualink.

If you want to upgrade to a variable speed pump in the future, my suggestion would be to upgrade to either a One Touch or Touch controller (if you wish to have a physical controller at all). Your Rev R chip means both the Touch and One Touch controllers will work and they both have variable speed capabilities.

 

[Dixit]

These extra wires were from the 6 conductor wire that was run to the all button panel. They were only using 4 of them. I did test 1 and 4 and got 10v. I did a continuity test between 1 and 2 as well as 3 and 4. They were all fine.

Then did a continuity test on 2 and 3. So then used the extra 2 wires that were tucked away on the panel side and PCB side. That made it work for awhile but then it stopped 30hrs later. But then it worked again. It's been working since.

I do actually plan on putting a VS flopro soon. I do know I can't program the variable pump with the all button panel. I would use the iAqualink for the programming as I do now. I just like the all button panel as it sits in my office and at a quick glance I can see what's going on without having to fire up the app on the phone.

So for now it's working again. This panel must be on the fritz or something.

Dixit

 

[Russmd]

Learning a lot in this thread.
I have a new iAqualink system that we set up on my wireless network easily the first time. The interface unit is in my garage right on the other side of the wall from my router, not 25 feet away. Full bar signal there on my phone wifi signal strength meters. I have a Dlink DIR655 router, WPA2. When set up, we immediately got flashing yellow to solid yellow to green and it worked flawlessly for about a week (all lights solid).
Yesterday I went to turn on the pool lights and got an "offline" message - first time I had ever seen that. Went out to look at the box and saw red and solid yellow but NO GREEN. I immediately checked my Internet connection in the house and all was working fine including wifi connections. I power cycled all the units - modem, router, and iAqualink without resolution - solid yellow no green (what does that mean). I called Jandy and the tech had no clue what I should do so simply told me to re-set up everything on the iAqualink from scratch- wifi, account, etc. I did this but now had trouble keeping a solid yellow light - finally got one but no green again. Very frustrating (I'm a computer geek and this didn't make sense to me - solid yellow means solid wifi?..).
For fun, pulled the unit down and with its long cord, it reached right next to my desk and modem. Opened it up again, switched to wired mode, and plugged the Ethernet directly into my router. Boom- all lights solid. Working. Flicked the switch back to wireless - and all lights stayed on solid! Disconnected the ethernet cable, Closed it up and remounted it. Solid, working.
So, working now, but what the f... happened? And how do I prevent it from happening again without running a cable? I need consistency in my life! Ideas? Thanks.

 

[Dixit]

Not sure there. Mines been working solid lately. No issues for me anymore. Except that weirdness where the main RS all button controller stops working but a fellow TFP member said that he has the same problem and Jandy believes its because the Spa side 4button switch is causing some issue with the RS All button control panel. But whats weird is that when the weather warmed up like lately, I have no issues, these problems were only present when it was consistently below 45F outside.

But so far no issues, my wifi connection to the iAqualink has never had issues of it being offline.

Dixit

 

[Russmd]

Just happened again! Worked fine 5 or 6 days, then just checked and "offline." Solid red and yellow, no green. Reboots no joy. This must be a Jandy hardware/firmware problem and is extremely aggravating. I am very disappointed in this product. When I contacted their tech support, they simply told me to use a power line Ethernet adapter or a cable. With every other device being wifi now, it's ridiculous that this simple device cannot be stable.

 

[Dixit]

Sorry to hear, mines been rock solid. Its on wifi only and it always had shown only 1/5bars (screenshot below) and still never seen offline issues like you are experiencing.

Dixit

 

[Russmd]

If it is a router issue, I can't for the life of me figure out what or why? I've been through the router settings ad nauseum. And it works on wifi for days before I get "offline." And all my other devices work flawlessly. I'm stumped, and I'm not easily stumped.

 

[cabaa99]

If it is a router issue, I can't for the life of me figure out what or why? I've been through the router settings ad nauseum. And it works on wifi for days before I get "offline." And all my other devices work flawlessly. I'm stumped, and I'm not easily stumped.

I have the same problem from time to time. Sometimes it fixes itself by waiting a day or two. Recently I found that resetting my Cable Modem (a Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.) fixed it almost immediately. Found this after trying unsuccessfully by resetting the iAqualink device and the router (E4200, which uses 2Ghz Mixed mode b/g/n, and WPA2 authentication).

I also noticed that when the problem happens, the router does connect to the iAqualink device because the router's DHPC tables show the IP address and name assigned for it, so not really a signal problem. It could still be a router setting though, whereby it stops working with the modem, and both need to be reset. Time will tell.