iAqualink 2.0 conversion to 3.0

Frank Rizzo

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Nov 13, 2015
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Woodland Hills, CA
Does anybody know if I wanted to upgrade from iAqualink 2.0 to 3.0 is it simply a matter of replacing the antenna with the new IA30-A network interface module? or do I need to replace the control board as well.
Pool was built/installed in 2016 and came with 2.0, but it would be nice to have better connectivity to my Mesh wi-fi. Its really my only beef with iAqualink. Cant find a definite answer...

thanks!

3.0 network module (only):

 
This is all you need...


If you have...

Use iQ30-A to upgrade these systems:

AquaLink RS - requires revision R or newer
AquaLink PDA - requires revision 6.0 or newer (your PDA remote is still required for programming and scheduling)
AquaLink Z4 - all revisions will work
 
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Update:
I ordered the iAqualink 3.0 Network Interface Module via the link above and installed it this weekend (replacing the 2.0 NIM). It is certainly much faster and stable. The old 2.0 system frequently took 15 or up to 20 seconds to connect the 3.0 does not take 5 or 6 seconds and re connection is much quicker.

Anybody with a MESH router system frustrated with the laggy connections with 2.0 iAqualink - I recommend the upgrade to 3.0 if you can swing it.

IMG_2458.jpeg
 
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Thanks for posting this earlier. I have an RS16 rev T.2 and a RS4 (not sure what rev), and I'm really tired of the iAquaLink 2.0 I have and it's crappy wifi, (802.11g, lol) so I'm going to order this 3.0 model up which at least is 802.11n (they couldn't do AC or AX? sheesh). Was the install easy peasy? Did all your current settings come over properly without having to re-do everything?
@Frank Rizzo
 
Thanks for posting this earlier. I have an RS16 rev T.2 and a RS4 (not sure what rev), and I'm really tired of the iAquaLink 2.0 I have and it's crappy wifi, (802.11g, lol) so I'm going to order this 3.0 model up which at least is 802.11n (they couldn't do AC or AX? sheesh). Was the install easy peasy? Did all your current settings come over properly without having to re-do everything?
@Frank Rizzo
All programming is in the memory on the board. The iAqualink is merely the interface, like a wifi keyboard/monitor in a sense.
 
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Thanks for posting this earlier. I have an RS16 rev T.2 and a RS4 (not sure what rev), and I'm really tired of the iAquaLink 2.0 I have and it's crappy wifi, (802.11g, lol) so I'm going to order this 3.0 model up which at least is 802.11n (they couldn't do AC or AX? sheesh). Was the install easy peasy? Did all your current settings come over properly without having to re-do everything?
@Frank Rizzo

Yep, easy peasy and plugs right in.
I have more thoughts though now that ive used it a while.....

The cr@ppy Jandy app is really the problem. If I stay logged on the the web interface via the app and my phone times out because I set it down or forget I have the app open and I want to jump back in, it is the spinning wheel of foreverness trying to get back in. If I close the web interface and reopen it, it is pretty quick. quicker than 2.0, but man, they really need to work on the app.

Overall no regrets.
 
That's still not fixed?!? LOL. oh well, not I wonder if I should even get the 3.0.. but maybe I will anyways, like you said, it's still quicker than 2.0.
 

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I installed the 3.0 model yesterday. Was pretty simple, just had to take all the panels off. For whatever reason, the registration process online (via website) would NOT recognize the serial # at all. Nor would the app recognize the serial #. After 30 minutes of frustration, I cleared the app's cache/data and tried again, and it finally took the serial # of the 3.0 unit. The wireless signal (802.11n on the 3.0, versus 802.11g on the 2.0) is -much- better and improved. Not happy about the $499, but happy I did it nonetheless. One more thing off the pool bucket list.! Thanks for this thread.
 
Are you already on iAqualink 2.0? if not, then I think you should just pay them to upgrade/install your automation unless you are really handy and can program the points.

If you are on iAqualink 2.0 then you just change the antenna module shown above and all your programming carries over.

You said "manual use" so methinks you do not have any automation...
.
 
Is there any feature difference between v2 and v3? (aside from better wifi support). Im assuming same app is used with all the same look and feel? Just trying to see if its worth for me to upgrade. My 2.0 works just fine from wifi/connectivity perspective.
 
Is there any feature difference between v2 and v3? (aside from better wifi support). Im assuming same app is used with all the same look and feel? Just trying to see if its worth for me to upgrade. My 2.0 works just fine from wifi/connectivity perspective.

No real differences, and to be honest after a while using 3.0 now, it is not that big of a deal.
It should really be called V2.1 actually.

Maybe it is 20% quicker on initial connection, but if the app goes to sleep it takes longer to connect via the web interface...which is the only way to control VSP speeds.
 
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I updated my 7 year-old iAqualink IQ-900 to a new iAqualink iQ3.0 in June 2023, after my old unit stopped working. (I have a 6614 Purelink Power Center, 6729 RS8). WiFi had been undependable at the time of initial installation, so I ran a hardwired ethernet cable. But one day the old iQ-900 stopped working. No help from tech support, but as there were no lights on the side, I determined that the iQ was dead.

I bought a new unit online from Hydropool.com for $796, which was by far the lowest price I could find. After I replaced the old unit, the app still said "system offline". Two problems had to be solved: Apparently, I had plugged the new red RS485 connector into the RS control unit upside down, so I had no power to the iQ30. Once I completely took apart the RS control box, removing every panel, I could see that the red connector was upside down (green wire was not on top). This correction turned on the lights in the iQ30, but the app still said
'system offline". What that meant was that the OLD iQ-900 was offline. It was not obvious that the app was actually seeing the new IQ30, but did not recognize it. I had to hit the "+" key and name and register the new device. Then it showed up in the app and the system was controllable. Unlike any modern computer or networking system I have ever used.

It took 30 sec to finally add the new iQ30, but it took me 5 hours of trial and error - due to inability to get any support from either Fluidra Tech Support of my dealer, who wanted $200 to come out and test it. Is this a bug or a dealer-protection feature?

Bottom line: you can do this in 20 minutes. 1) completely remove all RS control panels and replace the red connector carefully. 2) ignore "system offline" and when the iQ30 shows lights on the side, hit the "+" to add the new web controller. One last note. Keep the iQ30 right on top of the RS control box until it is fully installed, then attach it higher up, if you want.

Good luck.
 
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I'll add my datapoint. I'm on the fourth year with my iAqualink 2.0, and the connection drops have gotten more frequent. I suspect the humidity/moisture issues that some here have noted. I moved my Ubiquiti long range AP closer, and maybe it helped some. Regardless, I went ahead and dropped $500 on 3.0, going with an eBay store to save some money. It was an easy swap, and connected quickly to my 2.4 GHz network. I have a mesh system - TP-Link Deco AXE5400. I get push notifications for the connection drops, so I'll monitor over the next few days and update if I see any. I'm thinking I'll run the control cord into my crawl space to protect it from the elements, as the pool installers just mounted it right above my pool controller on my exterior wall. Then maybe I'll run Ethernet under the house if it comes to that.

Overall I regret buying the 3.0, and wish I'd just tried wiring my 2.0 to begin with. I haven't noticed much difference in performance, and it was an expensive upgrade.
 
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