I think I might need a new pump?

thechairperson

Bronze Supporter
May 25, 2019
54
Northwest Arkansas
Pool Size
17500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I think my pump might be dead. Any suggestions on figuring out for sure and/or what pump to get instead?

I'm really late getting the pool going this year. Just drained it and had it cleaned. When I went to test power to the pump and flipped the timer to on, nothing happened. I used a voltage tester and it seems like the breaker and timer have power. Because of the thick cabling from the timer to the pump, I can't tell if power is leaving the timer.

I've been thinking about putting in a better timer and pump for a while, so maybe it's time--the timer is an old, manual one, and the pump is single speed. Is there a go-to timer and pump people recommend?
 
I think my pump might be dead. Any suggestions on figuring out for sure and/or what pump to get instead?

I'm really late getting the pool going this year. Just drained it and had it cleaned. When I went to test power to the pump and flipped the timer to on, nothing happened. I used a voltage tester and it seems like the breaker and timer have power. Because of the thick cabling from the timer to the pump, I can't tell if power is leaving the timer.

I've been thinking about putting in a better timer and pump for a while, so maybe it's time--the timer is an old, manual one, and the pump is single speed. Is there a go-to timer and pump people recommend?
Check power at the motor, L1 to L2 with the timer and breaker on. If there is power there it is new pump or motor time. A Nidec Neptune NPTQ165 variable-speed motor will bolt to the pump you now have, no replumbing. Will need a GO KIT 1 for the required O rings and seal. Half the cost of a new VSP. Variable-speed pumps have their timers built in, power to them is constant. Your existing clock can be used to power the SWG on and off.

Drop-in replacement is the Hayward W3SP2303VSP. Disconnect the unions and power, put new place, and, using the O rings from the new unions, tighten it up, replace the wiring, program the pump. Again, your existing clock would not be used except for the SWG, power needs to be constant to this pump as well.
 
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Check power at the motor, L1 to L2 with the timer and breaker on. If there is power there it is new pump or motor time.
Thanks for all the info. I tried getting to L1 and L2 but one of the screws holding the cap on won't turn. Just applied some silicone lubricant and will try again in a bit. Any suggestions to get it to turn?
 
Thanks for all the info. I tried getting to L1 and L2 but one of the screws holding the cap on won't turn. Just applied some silicone lubricant and will try again in a bit. Any suggestions to get it to turn?
You'll likely break that screw off. That's OK as long as the other holds, or really, the cap will usually stay on by it self if there is enough corrosion that a screw breaks off. Usually by that time the motor has been damaged as well.
 
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I thought my pump was done after I noticed it wasn't running it turned out it was the wiring from the main breaker box to the outlet where I connect the pump. Can you test the pump on an extension cord from a different power source?
 
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Check power at the motor, L1 to L2 with the timer and breaker on. If there is power there it is new pump or motor time.
Finally got the the screw out by using a Dremel. I guess the good news is there was no power going to L1 nor L2, so the timer seems to be the issue. Any suggestion on what to get as a replacement? It'll be powering both the pump and a SWG.
 
Finally got the the screw out by using a Dremel. I guess the good news is there was no power going to L1 nor L2, so the timer seems to be the issue. Any suggestion on what to get as a replacement? It'll be powering both the pump and a SWG.
What clock do you have now? Is there power at the load side of the clock? It could be the wires themselves.
 
What clock do you have now? Is there power at the load side of the clock? It could be the wires themselves.
All I did was touch a voltage regulator to several places on it to know power was getting to it, but nothing more specific than that yet. Will look into checking the different wires.

My current timer is an Intermatic (E10694 I think, picture attached). Honestly, I don't ever use the timing part. I just leave the pump running the entire time. 😬

IMG_2531.png
 

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All I did was touch a voltage regulator to several places on it to know power was getting to it, but nothing more specific than that yet. Will look into checking the different wires.

My current timer is an Intermatic (E10694 I think, picture attached). Honestly, I don't ever use the timing part. I just leave the pump running the entire time. 😬

View attachment 515100
Check voltage between terminals 1 & 3. Then, turn clock on, push the lever to the right, its off now. Check voltage between 2 & 4. You should have 240V +/- at each check. Hard to tell with the insulator in place, but it appears the timer is wired correctly and somehow was turned off.
 
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Check voltage between terminals 1 & 3. Then, turn clock on, push the lever to the right, its off now. Check voltage between 2 & 4. You should have 240V +/- at each check. Hard to tell with the insulator in place, but it appears the timer is wired correctly and somehow was turned off.
I unscrewed all of the connections, cleaned everything, and put it back together and it works. Thanks for your help! Several things came out of this:
  1. You saved me from buying a new pump
  2. My wife is now OK that I bought a multimeter a month ago
  3. I know how to install my SWG
 
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