I need help... New SWG and no chlorine???

[pooladdict]

Umm more then likely a dumb question, but why would I need cya with a SWG, its putting chlorine into the pool based on the percentage of time I request of it no? Would not having more CYA bring the chlorines up even higher and then causing me to constantly adjust the percentage?

I say this, as I have just added CYA to get up to the recommended values by aqua rite, but am just curious as the chemistry of it all.

Thanks,
Rik

 

[Guest]

Umm more then likely a dumb question, but why would I need cya with a SWG, its putting chlorine into the pool based on the percentage of time I request of it no? Would not having more CYA bring the chlorines up even higher and then causing me to constantly adjust the percentage?

I say this, as I have just added CYA to get up to the recommended values by aqua rite, but am just curious as the chemistry of it all.

Thanks,
Rik

There are no dumb questions. Chlorine is burned off by sunlight very quickly if not stabilzied. Even though the unit is generating clorine for a percentage of each hour of pump run time that chlorine can quickly burn off in sunlight leaving 'dead spots' in the water and the pool could turn green in a worse case. This is no different than in a manually chlorinated pool. This effect can be overcome to some extent by increasing cell output (which will dramatically shorten cell life) and by increasing pump run time (which will increase the operating costs of the pool). Also, the size (or output ability) of the cell must be taken into consideration. Many systems are installed in residential pools with cells that are really a bit undersized for them and they would need to run 24/7 to produce enough chlorine to maintain a proper level in the water. This is not a design flaw but merely selecting the wrong system for the size of pool and is often done to cut costs. There has also been some speculation on the various forums that the CYA might, indeed, help with the production of chlorine in the cell but some people have thrown out that theory on the basis of tests done in one or two pools. Bottom line is this. I have tested the water (on a regular basis) of a number os salt pools and they all operate much better with fewer problems when the CYA is toward the upper limits of the manufacturer's recommened level and when the chlorine is kept at 3 ppm or sllightly higher (up to 5 ppm). Salt pools kept at these levels rarely, if ever, exhibit CC, develop algae blooms, or have other major problems. I might add that it is also important to keep the pH in line because once it goes much above 7.8 chlorine output seems to diminish from the SWG. I have seen numerous pools that don't meet these criteria and they all have had problems ranging from needing to be shocked on a constant basis to developing mustard and black algae!

I can make several educated guesses as to why but the bottom line is salt pools work if you have your CYA at close to the recommended levels, keep the FC at 3 ppm or above and keep the ph below 7.8!

 

[pooladdict]

Thanks Waterbear, I added the CYA with hesitation but felt it was the right thing to do.

Rik

 

[sunsoaker]

I thought I was replying to this thread with an update, but evidently posted a new topic which can be found
Here.

It took 3 days for the chlorine to come back down after shocking this last time. At this point, I think the I'm ok with the pool chemistry, but not sure. Any advice appreciated (or reassurances. :? )