I hate pool stores. Need help with test kit

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Cheetos82

Cheetos82

Well-known member
Jun 12, 2016
323
MUSKOGEE, Ok
Pool Size
6021
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
I went to 2 pool stores to find a test kit. All they sell are test strips then they both give me a hard time about wanting a regular test kit.
I don't have much money and trying to find one on Amazon and don't know what to get. Should I wait to start slam until I get the test kit?
Do I test cya and ph before slamming? And do i test cya after slamming as well?
 
Jimrahbe said:
PN,

We only recommend one of two kits... Either the FT-100 (which I use) or the Taylor K-2006C (and yes, the C is important..)

Read this.... Pool School - Test Kits Compared

You really need the test kit in order to do the SLAM correctly...

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
What is the difference between 2006 and 2006c? There is no way I can afford 2006c. I really can't afford the other but I'm trying. Not to whine just wanted to explain why. my husband is only one working bc of my health and we have 2 young children. Every penny is going into bills but I hates to get rid of pool then its the only fun the kids will have this summer since we can't afford to go anywhere. Maybe its best I just sell it. :(
 
Jimrahbe said:
PN,

We only recommend one of two kits... Either the FT-100 (which I use) or the Taylor K-2006C (and yes, the C is important..)

Read this.... Pool School - Test Kits Compared

You really need the test kit in order to do the SLAM correctly...

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
That link is not taking me to the proper place
 
What would I need a stirrer for? I'm trying to psych myself up to order a kit and which would be better tf 100 or taylor 2006c?
My pool is currently green can't even see the bottom
 

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Poolnewbie82 said:
What would I need a stirrer for? I'm trying to psych myself up to order a kit and which would be better tf 100 or taylor 2006c?
My pool is currently green can't even see the bottom
Click to expand...

In hindsight I would have gone with the TF 100 but I have an Amazon Prime membership and I get rewards if I use their credit card. I went a few weeks without the SpeedStir and finally got one and I love it. Get it, it's so worth it.
 
Poolnewbie82 said:
Also should I go ahead and start running pump while waiting for test kit?
Click to expand...

Yes, let it do some filtering. As for test kits, I personally prefer the Taylor test kit case because it is easier to carry and organize as well as having the color coded test instructions on the inside of the lid. Now I use the Taylor case and order refills from tftestkits.net.
Oh and yes to the speedstir, it's fantastic. I saw where you are on a tight budget -you can do without the speedstir.
 
The stirrer is a very convenient add on for the testing - very helpful with TA and CH testing. It is not required though and can be purchased at any time in the future if you so choose. I have the TF-100 and wouldn't stray from it all. A few more dollars, but you should look at the XL option for the TF-100 as well. It will have extra stuff you might need to get through a long slam.

Honestly, the test kit and bleach for the slam might be a little expensive at first but after that maintenance bleach is pretty low. The rest of the test kit stuff will get you through this year and probably next.

As for the pump, I would start it only a day or two before your test kit arrives. Use a leaf rake to get as much debris out of the bottom as you can now and that will speed everything up.

You don't have your pool size listed, but let us know and it might be more beneficial to just drain and refill it is above ground and small enough.
 
Pool Tool said:
The stirrer is a very convenient add on for the testing - very helpful with TA and CH testing. It is not required though and can be purchased at any time in the future if you so choose. I have the TF-100 and wouldn't stray from it all. A few more dollars, but you should look at the XL option for the TF-100 as well. It will have extra stuff you might need to get through a long slam.

Honestly, the test kit and bleach for the slam might be a little expensive at first but after that maintenance bleach is pretty low. The rest of the test kit stuff will get you through this year and probably next.

As for the pump, I would start it only a day or two before your test kit arrives. Use a leaf rake to get as much debris out of the bottom as you can now and that will speed everything up.

You don't have your pool size listed, but let us know and it might be more beneficial to just drain and refill it is above ground and small enough.
Click to expand...
16x48 intex 5600 gal. I drained but you can't get all of it even with our sump pump. Its so disgusting that even after filled it looks just as murky
 
Here is pool almost refilled. Stupid me filled it for 2 hours yesterday with they pump in and it was going straight back out
4e3408d6af2cd6c2010436462b7e5a3e.jpg
 
Still drained or refilled now? If drained, could you leave the sump pump running and run the hose/sprayer nozzle to "push" the gunk toward the sump pump. If untreated whatever algae is left will reproduce very quickly.

The good thing if you drained your pool and didn't add CYA - its zero! CYA is not found in any water sources. Knowing that you can start to treat the water. Buy some CYA, and add enough to get to 20 ppm. Immediately add 1 gallon of 6% bleach to raise the FC to 11 ppm. If you have different strength bleach use Pool Math (or ask) to calculate how to get to around 10 ppm FC. 10 ppm FC is the SLAM level for 20 ppm CYA. Then add that same amount of bleach everyday and keep your pump running until your test kit arrives.

If you can, test your pH before you add the bleach but assuming if you filled from a hose it should be okay for now.
 
Pool Tool said:
Still drained or refilled now? If drained, could you leave the sump pump running and run the hose/sprayer nozzle to "push" the gunk toward the sump pump. If untreated whatever algae is left will reproduce very quickly.

The good thing if you drained your pool and didn't add CYA - its zero! CYA is not found in any water sources. Knowing that you can start to treat the water. Buy some CYA, and add enough to get to 20 ppm. Immediately add 1 gallon of 6% bleach to raise the FC to 11 ppm. If you have different strength bleach use Pool Math (or ask) to calculate how to get to around 10 ppm FC. 10 ppm FC is the SLAM level for 20 ppm CYA. Then add that same amount of bleach everyday and keep your pump running until your test kit arrives.

If you can, test your pH before you add the bleach but assuming if you filled from a hose it should be okay for now.
Click to expand...
Yes refilled now. Oh my gosh I had pretty much no more money left right now! This is getting crazy. I either buy test kit or cya. Obviously I need both. I don't know what to do
 
I know this is probably the wrong way to go but if I used shock with stabilizer would that add necessary cya? I know that the shock isn't going to clear my pool. If it gets anything else out of wack I have the stuff to maintain it. Last yr we started pool with bag of shock before we found this site. I got a test that had cya and it was good. Just doesn't have proper chlorine test.
I'm grasping at straws here. I've already spent money I don't have to try to get it back running. Last year we both had jobs and it was easier to afford to maintain.
 
Yes, you'll want to add CYA prior to adding bleach to protect it from the sun. Otherwise it will burn off from the UV before it is effective. How much do you have. I buy it at Menards (home improvement store) for fairly inexpensive. I know that is relative, but certainly makes sense to try to use what you have to minimize costs, especially it that means you'll be able to purchase the test kit.

And just to reiterate, if you drained and refilled the only CYA present will be what you added. If you added none, you have none. Pool Math is very convenient for estimating ppm's - use the "effects of adding chemicals" at the bottom to estimate what the effects will be of what you have on hand and see where that gets you. Just be sure to change the pool volume at the top left of the page to 5600 gallons.
 

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