- Jul 18, 2013
- 527
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Truclear / Ei
How do I fix this leak?
- Thread starter JodieM
- Start date
It actually should be a threaded connection. The photo does not show what is above it but you may need to cut that straight vertical piece to remove the threaded part. Then you need to purchase a new threaded piece and a coupling to connect back to the existing PVC. Have you glued PVC before? It is easy but you do need special PVC glue.
Maybe show a wider shot picture of the the pipe leading from the pump and we determine if there is an alternative way.
Best to get rid of the hard pipe and use a proper hose kit for a booster pump. Two 3/4" female adapters and a hose kit is what you need. Booster pumps vibrate too much for hard plumbing, that's why they come with a hose kit. Anybody's booster-pump hose kit will work, they're all 3/4" kits. You cut the hose to the length you need and be sure to use several wraps of Teflon tape on the hose adapters (not pipe dope, it can damage the pump and fittings).
- Jul 18, 2013
- 527
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Truclear / Ei
Cut the 1.5" pipe for the pump outlet plumbing just below the second 90 so that you have a vertical pipe and install a 3/4"FIP X 1.5" pipe adapter as below. For the one pictured you would also need a 1.5" coupler. You can cut the supply pipe flush with the coupler between it and the valve (leave enough for the adapter) to put the 3/4" adapter shown in the first post. The pump should be able to be moved to give room to install the hoses if needed.
sktn77a
Gold Supporter
??? Never heard that before. My booster pump has been hard plumbed for 25 years with no issues.
There are pros and cons to Flexible hoses. I had them and they leaked all the time, so I am not a fan of them. I changed to hard pipe more than 10 years ago and it has been fine. I would not mess with the suction side if there is no leak.
If it were mine to do - I just cut that 3/4” PVC on the vertical, remove the threaded fitting. Then you will need to go back with a new threaded fitting, a short piece of PVC, a PVC coupler which connects to the remaining vertical PVC pipe. It appears you have flexibilty in that larger diameter PVC on the outlet side to line it all up.
Alternatively, you can purchase a union that allows you to make installation easier. It would replace the coupler in the above and allow you to glue it all and then tighten up the union.
There's always an exception. My Hayward EcoStar, 13+ years old, is one of the originals that had the issues with the drive, yet I've had zero problems. I don't do anything special to it, changed the shaft seal just because.
I've seen it at least 50 -100 times in 34 years. Asked the manufacturers about it very early in my career. All except Hayward said the same thing. You can plumb Hayward with hard pipe, but they always recommended 1.5".
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