Hooking up Equipment on New Build

Nateski

Active member
Jun 2, 2023
43
Arizona
After many months of DIY construction, I'm ready to hook up my pump, filter, heater, valves, actuators, and a Pentair Intellicenter and Easytouch 8 unit on a new pool and in-ground spa build. I'll be cutting my rough in pipes and hooking everything up and I'm just a bit nervous about getting it right. I've attached a diagram of my plan and would appreciate any input on it, items I may have missed (or things not needed), and any tips for this process before I dive in (no pun intended). Thanks!

Jandy-valve-Plumbing.jpg
 
I'm particularly interested to hear any input about how much extra pipe to leave around any particular area in the event something needs to be replaced along with how and where to allow a space for a salt generator in the future.
 
What height is the equipment pad in relation to the water level ?

The check valve next to the pump isn't needed if you're using a 3 way valve to waste right next to it. You can close that off instead to stop filter water backflow.
I'm particularly interested to hear any input about how much extra pipe to leave around any particular area in the event something needs to be replaced
Ideally you want enough pipe to add a coupler anywhere in the system. Things won't usually break in between A and B so that buys you one freak accident repair at any given spot.

On all the equipment pieces, leave several couplers worth because you could replace the equipment pieces every 5 years and they changed the plumbing in the meantime. If you have the room to easily splice new equipment, it'll all last 20 years. :ROFLMAO:
where to allow a space for a salt generator in the future.
X marks the spot, leave 2 ft because most units are 18 or so inches plus the unions.
Screenshot_20240220_180140_Chrome.jpg
 
Hey Nate - A couple of questions/comments:

- You mention an Intellicenter and Easytouch 8. Those are 2 different automation systems, you do not need both. If you have both I would keep the Intellicenter and take back the ET.
- You have a skimmer in your spa? Its not a bad idea, just not the norm. Would the skimmer only run in spa mode? I would think you would want it to skim in pool mode since that will be 99% of the time.
- Does your spa only have 2 returns (North and South)?
- Your Spa waterfall is on the same side of the 3 way actuator as your spa returns. You typically want the spa waterfall to run in pool mode, otherwise you will be dumping all of your hot water into the pool. You also want to make sure you run the spa waterfall each day so that your spa receives freshly chlorinated water.
- Are your Baja Returns bubblers? If so, you may want to use a regular valve to be able to fine tune the output
- You have a lot of Ball Valves listed. Ball Valves are much more prone to failure and I would suggest using Jandy Neverlube style valves instead.
- I count 8 actuators on your design. Have you confirmed this will work with your automation system? I believe the Intellicenter can only control 4 actuators without adding on to the Intellicenter.
 
Last edited:
  • Don't use ball valves. Use only high quality diverter valves such as Jandy Never Lube or Pentair
  • Install unions on all your equipment
  • Consider adding a three way diverter between the pump and filter so you can vacuum to waste, etc.
  • Use a three way diverter to control suction from the skimmer and main drain (delete the "ball valves")
  • Install an external heater bypass
  • Install a SWCG now, or at least install a dummy cell so a salt cell can easily be installed later
  • Make sure your IntelliCenter has the built in SWCG transformer
 
Hey Nate - A couple of questions/comments:

- You mention an Intellicenter and Easytouch 8. Those are 2 different automation systems, you do not need both. If you have both I would keep the Intellicenter and take back the ET.
- You have a skimmer in your spa? Its not a bad idea, just not the norm. Would the skimmer only run in spa mode? I would think you would want it to skim in pool mode since that will be 99% of the time.
- Does your spa only have 2 returns (North and South)?
- Your Spa waterfall is on the same side of the 3 way actuator as your spa returns. You typically want the spa waterfall to run in pool mode, otherwise you will be dumping all of your hot water into the pool. You also want to make sure you run the spa waterfall each day so that your spa receives freshly chlorinated water.
- Are your Baja Returns bubblers? If so, you may want to use a regular valve to be able to fine tune the output
- You have a lot of Ball Valves listed. Ball Valves are much more prone to failure and I would suggest using Jandy Neverlube style valves instead.
- I count 8 actuators on your design. Have you confirmed this will work with your automation system? I believe the Intellicenter can only control 4 actuators without adding on to the Intellicenter.
I initially bought an Easytouch 8 for the built in service panel, then purchased the upgrade to the Intellicenter.

The spa is designed to be a standalone body of water, thus the skimmer. This is for quick heating up of the spa. Yes, that spa skimmer would only run in spa mode. I do plan on having an automated schedule that circulates both the spa water and the pool water independently at different times. However, I've also built in a small spillway from the spa into the pool if I want to run with a combined water system (which we'll likely do when we're out of town for the summer, to simplify water chemistry while we're gone).

The Baja shelf is a full lenth of the pool shelf and the returns are designed to help circulate that water back into the pool (they're not bubblers).

On all the ball valves, I'm not planning on them being adjusted very much except for the initial dialing in of everything. I'm thinking that being able to control flow for each individual plumbing line with a ball valve as opposed to only a jandy valve would be the most flexible, then the jandy/activator is just an off/on control. I'm not really sure if the jandy valve actuators can be programmed to control how much flow goes through the valve or if they are just on/off... never having configured this kind of thing before. If they are fully programmable, then I guess I wouldn't need the ball valves. Any input on that issue?

The spa has three trunk lines (North, South, and Therapy). Each trunk line has 3 jets, I'm planning on just the North/South lines (6 jets total) for general circulation and spa use, with the Therapy jets as an additional spa setting.

On the actuators, I've also purchased the Pentair expansion module so I can handle the extra valves.

Thanks for you feedback, JJ_Tex!
 
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  • Don't use ball valves. Use only high quality diverter valves such as Jandy Never Lube or Pentair
  • Install unions on all your equipment
  • Consider adding a three way diverter between the pump and filter so you can vacuum to waste, etc.
  • Use a three way diverter to control suction from the skimmer and main drain (delete the "ball valves")
  • Install an external heater bypass
  • Install a SWCG now, or at least install a dummy cell so a salt cell can easily be installed later
  • Make sure your IntelliCenter has the built in SWCG transformer

Hey pjt... thanks for your suggestions. So, are jandy/actuators fully programable for flow, or just off/on? That would make a big difference in my thoughts about the individual ball valves (see my comments to jj_tex).
 

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Hey pjt... thanks for your suggestions. So, are jandy/actuators fully programable for flow, or just off/on? That would make a big difference in my thoughts about the individual ball valves (see my comments to jj_tex).
Diverter valve actuators move between two preset positions.

If you had a Jandy Aqualink the SmartJVA add-on board would allow you to set in real-time the amount their automated valves (JVAs) are open from 0-100% in 5% increments. It requires Rev R or newer.

Pentair has the IntelliValve and is working on enabling the Intelli feature. See….

 
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