High Chlorine

Yep.


I will tell you even a more interesting thing: I have the same exact kit from 10 years ago. When I started the pool, I had not bought a new one yet so I used the old. I was suspicious about chlorine reading, and eventually last Thursday bought the new one.
Now, being a naturally inquisitive person I am, :lol: I decided to compare the two to see how long one can rely upon a kit.

Well, other than my chlorine reading that was indeed lower than it was in reality (I am yet to find out which chemical it is) the rest of the readings, that is pH and TA were exactly the same as with the new kit.

I am not advocating anything but....interesting.
 
Well,

As I wrote in another thread, My pool was visited by a turtle yesterday, so long story short, After I asked the turtle out (I did let it enjoy the pool for a couple of hours) I decided to shock the pool.
Also, yesterday at the same time I emptied the inline chlorinator, so to take any variable like "well, even though you set it to Off, it still lets the water through) out of equation.
As I was told the pool is 30K gallons I used 3 Cal Hypo 1lb packs. I threw them mostly over the deep end preferably close to jets, and ran the pump for an hour.

In the morning my chlorine was off the charts (which I expected given the high CYA and the night time, plus the dose itself), too dark a purple for me to try to extrapolate the value, probably at leadt 8 to 9 ppm, but then when I came back home after work, about 7pm I tested it and it is still kinda off the scale, close color-wise to where it was in the morning.
I will not be adding any chlorine today and will monitor it untill I see it dropping.
 
Last time I put bleach in (I no longer use trichlor) was the night of last Wednesday. I put it in every other night, but decided not to as it was high enough.
For reference, my CYA is 77 now(was 91, measured by the same store).
This morning it is almost the same, it is 6ppm.

I think it is good (nothing consumes it). But, should at least some of it get dissipated..by something?
 
When there is no sunlight on the pool and no pool cover (which chlorine usually reacts with slowly) then in a clean pool the chlorine loss will be very low. Chlorine slowly oxidizes CYA, but that would only result in around 0.2 to 0.3 ppm FC per 24 hours of chlorine demand. This loss is temperature dependent. So generally speaking, at normal chlorine levels you would have almost no measurable loss overnight. The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT) is usually done at SLAM levels where the losses would be higher which is why the rule is to have <= 1 ppm FC loss.
 
FC behavior is really very simple. It gets consumed by two things only......UV from the sun and organics in your pool. CYA buffers that loss from the sun dramatically in an outdoor pool.
But, should at least some of it get dissipated..by something?
Yes, it is consumed by the two factors above. If you are not seeing that depletion, you have a testing error.
 

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Well, as I said, I have it about 5.5 or so (just a tad darker than the max color ref at 5ppm, I put a gallon of 8.2% bleach before I go to bed, in the morning it is quite dark, looks like 7 to 8 ppm, (25K gallon pool will get roughly 3ppm), and the end of the third day right before sunset (did not add chlorine the next day and the next after that, and the next after evening is when I measure) it is above 5, likely 6ppm.


Again I am not worrying right now, just trying to understand, this is the slowest rate I have seen.
And, yes, I know what consumes chlorine. The pool is exposed to plenty of sun during most of the day.
 
The last time I was in my pool store (by my pool store, I mean the one that sold me the pool); the line was backed up with people needing sample testing and they all had problems with their pools. They had an associate with the chemicals helping people in addition to the testing associate. In other words, they are so busy trying to fix people's pool woes, that they had to double team it. I could hear some of what the helper was telling customers. She was mostly giving good advice regarding what kind of chlorine to use based on the particular customers' stabilization level, except that, of course, they were not recommending higher FC levels based on CYA, and that is the big, big problem even with the best-intended and most knowledgeable pool store staff in my opinion. I asked the customer in front of me. She was constantly having problems this year--cloudy and green; keeps coming back. Did not own a test kit. Just brought in samples when the pool would lose clarity. I recommended that she go to the website, learn, get a kit and start doing it herself, but I didn't know her CYA level, so I couldn't get specific. I did tell her that she was probably not keeping enough chlorine in the pool and probably not putting enough in when shocking, because the industry's recommendations are generally low on both accounts to keep pools clean, but that's all I could say w/o knowing her numbers.

I was there getting a sample tested while I had started with TFP, but was still waiting on a TF-100 and my current test kit had only PH, total chlorine, and TA, so I wasn't totally on board with the TFP system, but was on my way at the time. Alot of people just keep pucks in the pool; run the filter; and brush and vacuum now and then, and then when the pool gets cloudy or green, they'll run a sample to the store and get help. They think that's the way pool care has to be. As long as their pools are relatively clear, they think everything is just fine.

I had recently used dichlor for a period of time as my daily chlorine add because I needed to raise my CYA just a little, but not 5 lbs worth of CYA. Since, during the interim of getting totally set up for TFP and not exactly knowing how much I had added to my CYA, I was being conservative on my FC level and keeping it between 4-7. I was showing 3 ppm loss per day, so I figured I was either over estimating my CYA, or had CC's coming on. At least by the pool store test, it was the former. My CYA was only 33, according to their test. I went home and started using the rest of my dichlor with daily adds, watching PH and TA of course. When I got my kit, my actual CYA was at 45 and I had used the calculator to move CYA to 48, which I knew from prior experience would not move it as much as the calculator stated; either due to dilution or specific product properties or whatever. At any rate, I got the CYA where I wanted it, but would have been much easier had I gotten the kit sooner.

Anyway, this is thread about high chlorine. The tester guy handed my report to the manager. He looked at my report with FC @ 6.1 (it was a mid-morning test and I had moved my FC close to 7 using an OTO the evening before--I know, not very accurate). Anyway, he said to cut down on my chlorine use, because it was too high. I said "thank you". I couldn't argue, because he was partially right, because my CYA was only @ 33. But I bet, that if my CYA had been 60, he'd had said the same thing. And then, I would have argued with him.
 
Reading back through this thread, it appears you are reporting test results with an OTO chlorine test....is that correct? If so, the results you are reporting is simply guesswork. OTO chlorine tests are not capable of that resolution and comparing them to pool store results is comparing them to something even worse.
 
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