So you are adding the powder and then the sample gets darker pink as you add the drops of reagent? How much powder are you adding? You may not be adding enough powder and that is why the sample gets more pink.
high cc
- Thread starter swirlywater
- Start date
- Feb 1, 2015
- 78
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Should I pull the pucks out of the feeder during this process of figuring out what is wrong?
- Feb 1, 2015
- 78
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Jason, I add a heaping scoop of powder using the little spoon provided and the water turns pink (presence of chlorine). With every drop of 871 it gets clear fast, but still a little bit pink; I add till the solution is clear. When I add the 003 the solution instantly turns bright pink (CC).
Okay it sounds like you're doing the test correctly. But I'm not exactly sure why the cc are so high.
- Feb 1, 2015
- 78
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Update: FC=1.5, CC=14 (higher again), PH 7.2 (Dropped), TA= 120, CYA=40(GooD). I am removing the pucks and just added 3 jugs bleach. Report back in 30 min
- Feb 1, 2015
- 78
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
After 30 min, FC was 6 so I added to more jugs of bleach to ensure shock level until I can get home. That is 5 jugs today, 6 yesterday, this is going to be expensive. This isn't a good picture, but it was raining and I was rushed. Clear water, you can see to the bottom, and the trees are reflecting even know the skys are gray. 
What was the CC level in the last test?
I think if you took the cover off during the day it may help the CC go away.
I think if you took the cover off during the day it may help the CC go away.
- Feb 1, 2015
- 78
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
CC went up to 14! Will test again when I get home. The cover is mesh it should be breathable. I took the solar cover off. If this isn't cleared up by the weekend i will take it off, but there is a lot of **** flying around the air in Ohio in the spring that I would rather keep out of the pool.
I know you want the pool clean, but the cc needs all the help you can give it. Please remove the cover for sun exposure as Blizz suggested. The sun will take care of some.
My FC test doesnt do what you describe.
Each drop slowly changes the pink from a dark pink to a lighter pink to eventually clear. The TA test on the other hand, when you put a drop in, it might turn red for a second then back to green. And every drop the red lasts a bit longer and then it eventually stays red.
The way the FC test is behaving is kinda puzzling to me.
Each drop slowly changes the pink from a dark pink to a lighter pink to eventually clear. The TA test on the other hand, when you put a drop in, it might turn red for a second then back to green. And every drop the red lasts a bit longer and then it eventually stays red.
The way the FC test is behaving is kinda puzzling to me.
- Feb 1, 2015
- 78
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I agree Kris. Go Mountaineers! My FC test flashes like the PH test, but if it turns pink again I add another drop.
The FC test is working as it should. Starts deep pink and gets lighter until it sticks clear. UNLESS you have very low/little FC. Then the solution will only turn light pink if at all, and change clear very quickly when you start adding drops. You record that as the FC, then add the reagent to turn it back to pink to measure CC. Repeat drops to clear, record CC.
The way your CC is constantly climbing does lead me to believe it's an ammonia issue. Theoretically, with an ammonia problem even after adding bleach, your FC would be 0 and CC would be high. In practice, FC tends to be low/very low while CC climbs. Your water is also clear. CC is formed when FC reacts with organics. Usually this is algae. Since your water is clear, it's something else. Your CYA was low when you opened. You indicated you use floaters. Usage of floaters (trichlor) inherently raises CYA to high levels over time that only get lower with water replacement or... dun dun dun... CYA to ammonia conversion, which can happen over the winter in cold climates or other situations.
If you want to see how it went for me first, check out my thread from last year. Ammonia issue and resolution starts in this post: http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/70486-New-Member-from-MN?p=629366&viewfull=1#post629366
The way your CC is constantly climbing does lead me to believe it's an ammonia issue. Theoretically, with an ammonia problem even after adding bleach, your FC would be 0 and CC would be high. In practice, FC tends to be low/very low while CC climbs. Your water is also clear. CC is formed when FC reacts with organics. Usually this is algae. Since your water is clear, it's something else. Your CYA was low when you opened. You indicated you use floaters. Usage of floaters (trichlor) inherently raises CYA to high levels over time that only get lower with water replacement or... dun dun dun... CYA to ammonia conversion, which can happen over the winter in cold climates or other situations.
If you want to see how it went for me first, check out my thread from last year. Ammonia issue and resolution starts in this post: http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/70486-New-Member-from-MN?p=629366&viewfull=1#post629366
Now this seems counter to what you previously reported. The FC test should not "flash" a color, it should steadily lighten and go clear and then you do the CC portion.
How long are you taking to do the FC and CC test? If you wait too long, the water will always turn pink again and that does not count for anything.
And you are swirling the sample the entire time right?
- Feb 1, 2015
- 78
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I am swirling, pausing every once in a while to determine if the solution is still pink. My afternoon reading today I recorded as soon as there was no light pink color, though I had just added 3 jugs of bleach so it made sense it was present. The three jugs should have taken me to 12ppm Chlorine according to the pool calculator. My CYA level last year only approached 30 at the end of the season. I am using an inline feeder not a floater. Last summer at the advice of my pool builder we used the nature 2 and kept FC at 1.5. I should add that when I closed the pool the walls were a little slimy feeling, but the water was clear. I scrubbed them down and shocked with a non-chlorine powder added based on volume(not according to SLAM). The walls are not slimy now. If I had an ammonia problem shouldn't be CYA be zero? Since I added CYA on Monday (possibly not all dissolved in the filter yet) should I backwash to ensure no more gets in the pool?
- Feb 1, 2015
- 78
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Joel, did it take you two weeks of adding Bleach to clear it up? My PH is drifting down, should I add the borax while the my FC is low, or does it not matter as long as I take my reading while the FC is low? I am down 14 jugs of bleach already and I think I am just starting to hack the problem.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Bleach is expensive when you need to slam but it's still a lot cheaper than trying to solve this problem at the pool store 
Sounds like you're turning the corner finally. I wouldn't worry about the pH unless you just have to. If the FC drops below 10 and you choose to adjust that isn't a problem. But waiting until you finish the SLAM isn't a problem either.
I'd much rather have a recycle container full of empty three dollar bleach bottles than 25-50 dollar bottles of "try this".
Sounds like you're turning the corner finally. I wouldn't worry about the pH unless you just have to. If the FC drops below 10 and you choose to adjust that isn't a problem. But waiting until you finish the SLAM isn't a problem either.
I'd much rather have a recycle container full of empty three dollar bleach bottles than 25-50 dollar bottles of "try this".
Attachments
I think we're running around chasing our tails here trying to figure out a problem that should be non-existent. It is almost impossible to accurately test/SLAM a pool with the winter cover on. I too am in Ohio with a pool surround by woods, and I 100% know the feeling you have worrying about stuff falling into the pool. If you wish to keep it closed and keep all the leaves out of the pool, then button up the cover and leave it be until you're ready to fully open. If you wish to open the pool and clean the water, remove the cover and let the pool "breathe" some to reduce the CC's you are seeing. Right now you're stuck in the middle.
- Feb 1, 2015
- 78
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
It was uncovered to clean it before I had the problem. Covers coming off after happy hour...at which time I will also have an ammonia test kit
The pucks are the only thing that could possibly be lowering your pH. Now that you removed them, the pH should no longer be dropping.
Ok, based on your last post the test is working as it should. Once powder is added and swirled, you should have vivid pink. Then as you drop in 871 each successive drop should clear it more and more until clear of pink.