High Alkalinity with Low PH

[JasoninKC]

Hi all, I’m coming from a PermaSalt pool which was installed late last summer and was a mistake. I am converting to Chlorine this year and am having some trouble getting my levels balanced.

My alkalinity started out at 170, with PH at 8.2. I’ve added dry acid(6 lbs Friday night, 8 pounds last night, and 3 lbs this morning) to try and lower the alkalinity and ph, and alkalinity has only dropped to 150 though ph is down to 7.5.

I’m fighting a green algae issue, so am trying to get alkalinity low so I can start raising my CYA and then start working on the algae issue.

When I filled my pool for the first time last summer, alkalinity was over 400 out of the tap(country water) so it took a bunch of work(money) to get it down to 120, so I’m not sure why it’s higher this year than when I closed in the fall once water temp was below 60 degrees, or why I have algae already when I didn’t have it when I closed. Current water temp is under 60 degrees.

Can I keep fighting my alkalinity to get it lower while working to increase CYA, or does alkalinity need to be in range before starting the rest of the process?

Forgot to mention I am testing with the TF test kit.

Thanks in advance!

 

[proavia]

Post a full set of current test results from your test kit.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temperature

What exact test kit are you using?

What is your location?

 

[JohnT]

Welcome to TFP!

I’d suggest you check out Pool School before adding more chemicals. Pool School I’ll link to specific articles below.

We don’t recommend dry acid, as it adds unwanted chemicals. Muriatic Acid is the preferred pH reducer.

Simply adding acid doesn’t permanently reduce TA. It gives a temporary reduction, but unless you get it low enough and keep getting it there, the permanent reduction will be small. My well water TA is 480ppm, so I’ve been through it. Lower Total Alkalinity

There is no reason to worry about alkalinity in the short term unless you have a plaster or tile surface in the water, and there’s no need to lower alkalinity before adding CYA. Fact is, hold up on adding CYA unless it’s really low. Excess CYA makes it harder to fight algae. What you need is chlorine. Period. May need to add it very frequently for a day or two to get the job done. SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

Post your test numbers and details about your pool and we can improve our advice.

 

[JasoninKC]

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temperature

What exact test kit are you

FC - 0
CC - 0
pH - 7.5
TA - 150
CH - 450
CYA - 0
Water temperature - 59 degrees Fahrenheit

What exact test kit are you using? TF Test kits

Located in Kansas City, MO, USA

 

[JohnT]

Add chlorine. About every hour until it holds. Follow the SLAM article.

Start adding CYA, but be sure you don’t overshoot.

150ppm TA should be ignored unless you have a plaster or tiled pool.

 

[proavia]

Which exact kit from TFTestkits? They offer several.
TF-100, TF-Pro, TF-100 Salt, TF-Pro Salt

Don't worry about TA for now.
If you have algae, you need to SLAM Process
But first let's check for and eliminate any ammonia - add 10ppm liquid chlorine, circulate for 30 minutes and retest the FC. If the FC is 5 or less, add more liquid chlorine to get to 10ppm and restest in 30 minutes. Rinse, repeat until FC holds.
Once FC holds, begin the SLAM Process and follow the instructions to the letter.

Also, use muriatic acid instead of dry acid for pH. Dry acid leaves sulfates behind.

Put your correct location in your profile.
KalebKhianna78 isn't KC.

 

[JasoninKC]

Add chlorine. About every hour until it holds. Follow the SLAM article.

Start adding CYA, but be sure you don’t overshoot.

150ppm TA should be ignored unless you have a plaster or tiled pool.

Thank you! Not going to worry about alkalinity for now! I’ll follow the slam article.

Thanks again!

 

[JasoninKC]

Which exact kit from TFTestkits? They offer several.
TF-100, TF-Pro, TF-100 Salt, TF-Pro Salt

Don't worry about TA for now.
If you have algae, you need to SLAM Process
But first let's check for and eliminate any ammonia - add 10ppm liquid chlorine, circulate for 30 minutes and retest the FC. If the FC is 5 or less, add more liquid chlorine to get to 10ppm and restest in 30 minutes. Rinse, repeat until FC holds.
Once FC holds, begin the SLAM Process and follow the instructions to the letter.

Also, use muriatic acid instead of dry acid for pH. Dry acid leaves sulfates behind.

Put your correct location in your profile.
KalebKhianna78 isn't KC.

Thank you for the advice! I have the TF Pro.

I’ll begin the SLAM process once I get chlorine going and stable.

 

[proavia]

Use PoolMath to determine dosing.
Be sure to set your pool volume in PoolMath.

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