Help with Generic Replacement Salt Cell

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CHRISRALRAL

CHRISRALRAL

0
Jun 19, 2018
4
Tampa, FL
found this forum on a google search, so this is my first post. Dealing with an issue where I replaced my old T-Cell-15 with a $250 generic version from Amazon which was marketed as a "direct replacement." With the new generic cell installed I kept getting the "high salt" reading on the panel. Through some internet searches, I found that these generic cells may not be compatible with older boards, as my pool was built in 2008, and am running version r1.40 on my Goldline Aqua Rite chlorine generator. I decided to bit the bullet and return the generic cell and stick with the Hayward, T-Cell-15, even though my pool is only 8,000 gallons........the original pool builder had the T-Cell-15 installed for some reason, as it's rated to handle up to 40,000 pools. So now with the new cell in place I get the panel/cell to generate (power is green, generating is green) for about 30 seconds, then it moves to (power green, HIGH SALT red).........it's like this every time even when moving from off to AUTO, etc. So, my next step is to take the board out and inspect the K1 solder point. I'm hoping that is the case as a similar situation happened about 5 years ago where the large black circle (top right of board) current limiter was smoked. I re-soldered and it worked fine. I do plan on replacing the current 20 amp fuse with a 15 amp fuse. If anyone has any other ideas I would be all ears. Thanks for this forum!
8,000 gallon
Exposed Aggregate (Pebble Tec)
Installed 11/2008
Pro Grid 3620 D.E. filter
new 1.0 hp US Motors 2 speed round flange pump motor
 
I have yet to crack open a bad salt cell and explore the electronic side of it (if any). Don't know about old boards but if the old T-15 cell worked before then firmware compatibility is not an issue. Did you confirm the salt level in your water using a reliable test kit?

Can you post the diagnostic?

hah...I typed way to slowww and experts always beat me! :gone:
 
When an old cell fails, the salinity reads low on the display.

So, many people just keep adding salt because the display is showing low.

When the new cell is installed, the actual salinity is being calculated and the system shuts down.

The high salt actually goes by amps. If the amps get to 8.0, the high salt light will go on.
 
thanks for the quick replies, guys. That may make sense as I was adding salt more often as my old cell started to stop working. I expect my salt testing kit to be delivered today via Amazon (I went with the "Aquachek" pool and spa salt test strips). Ideally, my salt level is in fact high and the K1 solder point is fine. At that point I will go through the old drain and fill process to get the salt level down. Makes me think the $250 generic cell would have been fine as the real Hayward cost me $600 (w/ a 4 year warranty). Either way I appreciate everyone's time and will report back over the weekend.
 
High salt goes by amps. If the amps get to 8.0, the unit shuts down.

So, there's no specific salinity that causes the high salt error. At different water temperatures, the high salt goes off at different salt levels.

If the water is lower temperature, you might be ok at 4,000 ppm salt.

At higher water temperatures, you might need to go down to 3,000 ppm.

After getting the salinity down, check all diagnostic readings to see water temperature, volts, amps, salinity etc.
 
hallelujah! After receiving my test strips and running the test exactly as the directions indicate, my salt reading was at a 7.2 - 7.4 which equates to a reading of between 4330 and 4760ppm, which explains the HI amps reading. Would you suggest I drain and add water or just let time run it's course and in a couple weeks perhaps the salt level will be down to an acceptable range in the 3200-3400 range. Bing Summer time in Florida I'm adding water weekly regardless. Thanks for any advise gentlemen. I've been a pool owner for 10 years and thought I knew a lot about pools, but this forum while extremely useful, reiterates the fact that I don't know much. Luckily my pool and salt chlorination has pretty much been on cruise control until now. Thanks again. pool test.jpg
 

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CHRISRALRAL said:
hallelujah! After receiving my test strips and running the test exactly as the directions indicate, my salt reading was at a 7.2 - 7.4 which equates to a reading of between 4330 and 4760ppm, which explains the HI amps reading. Would you suggest I drain and add water or just let time run it's course and in a couple weeks perhaps the salt level will be down to an acceptable range in the 3200-3400 range. Bing Summer time in Florida I'm adding water weekly regardless. Thanks for any advise gentlemen. I've been a pool owner for 10 years and thought I knew a lot about pools, but this forum while extremely useful, reiterates the fact that I don't know much. Luckily my pool and salt chlorination has pretty much been on cruise control until now. Thanks again.
Click to expand...

The salt level won't go down by evaporation. You will need to drain/refill to get it down.

When the water level goes down by evaporation the salt is left behind.
 
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Maybe drain and refill at the same time to dilute without exposing the plaster.

If you can find a way to drain off water and refill at the same rate, the salinity will go down while the pool stays full.

Some systems have a spigot fitting that can take a garden hose or maybe set up a siphon if the pool sits high enough.
 
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