Help with CYA, pH, FC, and CC

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PoolStored said:
Yes, you can add enough to get 30ppm CYA. Use the sock method.

I would do this test tonight. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

If you fail, you slam.
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I bought a gallon of liquid so I could get CYA up quickly. That should put me at 10 plus whatever is in there (less than 10). My concern is how much of the 7lbs I added before is not showing on the test yet and therefore I don’t know how much more to add so I don’t overshoot 30.
 
samsoccer7 said:
My concern is how much of the 7lbs I added before is not showing on the test yet and therefore I don’t know how much more to add so I don’t overshoot 30.
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When did you add it (when was it completely dissolved)? The CYA is consumed by a bacteria, and creates the ammonia. It continued to consume the CYA until you killed it...hence the CYA loss.
 
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PoolStored said:
When did you add it (when was it completely dissolved)? Likely that the ammonia chewed through it...
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I added it a couple days ago and had some cloudiness for the test this morning. I did add a gallon of liquid stabilizer and retested shortly after and it was right around 30. I don’t know if the black dot should be completely gone or just really hard to see. Anyway I think it’s holding right around this number and I will check again later and then do the overnight test!
 
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FC is 7.4 right now. But there’s a lot of bubbling on the surface. Not foam though. What is that from? pH is around 7.0 do I need to get that higher? TA is around 100-110 so not too high.
 
samsoccer7 said:
FC is 7.4 right now. But there’s a lot of bubbling on the surface. Not foam though. What is that from? pH is around 7.0 do I need to get that higher? TA is around 100-110 so not too high.
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A bit of POP (pool owner patience) is in order. Any pH in the 7s is ok.

How did you add the liquid stabilizer? Did you rinse the bottle to get it all out of the bottle?

Let's reset a bit. Retest a full set of tests when you can and we can go from there...

Are you using Pool Math? PoolMath If so, home screen, gear in the upper right, scroll to bottom and enable sharing with TFP...then we can see your current test results and additions.

Also, take a minute and fill out your signature...

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
PoolStored said:
A bit of POP (pool owner patience) is in order. Any pH in the 7s is ok.

How did you add the liquid stabilizer? Did you rinse the bottle to get it all out of the bottle?

Let's reset a bit. Retest a full set of tests when you can and we can go from there...

Are you using Pool Math? PoolMath If so, home screen, gear in the upper right, scroll to bottom and enable sharing with TFP...then we can see your current test results and additions.

Also, take a minute and fill out your signature...

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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I’ve been logging my tests there. But you’re right just need some patience but was concerned about the bubbling on the surface. Maybe related to running the robot?

Overall I’m in a good place. Will check the overnight FC loss then check all tests in the morning and log them.
 

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samsoccer7 said:
Yes. The linking was turned off but i turned it on now.
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Please check logs. I think my pool must not be circulating ideally bc my FC is over 10 (11-12 range). CC is 0.5. CYA is right at 30. No pool cover in the Midwest so sun will bring the FC down. Is this why the top of the pool has a thin layer of bubbles covering 50% of the surface area?
 
You should also log your chemical additions, really helps with troubleshooting.

Can you tell us every chemical that the pool company and you added to the pool since startup?

Thanks!
 
Sam,
Don't know how your equipment is set up but you do have a main drain and if you can close it off via a valve and have all the pump suction pull from the skimmer/s you will be better at skimming the pool surface and getting rid of what you describe.
 
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wireform said:
Sam,
Don't know how your equipment is set up but you do have a main drain and if you can close it off via a valve and have all the pump suction pull from the skimmer/s you will be better at skimming the pool surface and getting rid of what you describe.
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I was thinking of doing. I’ll do it and see how it changes. One skimmer seems weaker from the very beginning so this will test if it can pick up the pace.

I will log all chemicals if possible. I had added one pound of cal-hypo early on bc Leslie’s then got smart and only added bleach and CYA since then. Pool company added a couple things which I will verify.
 
wireform said:
Sam,
Don't know how your equipment is set up but you do have a main drain and if you can close it off via a valve and have all the pump suction pull from the skimmer/s you will be better at skimming the pool surface and getting rid of what you describe.
Click to expand...
Should it be obvious the skimmers are doing a better job if the main drain is closed? One of them seems no different and the other maybe a little stronger.
 

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