I am opening my pool and it is very green with lots of algae and I think even back swimmers and/or water boatman. The CYA is testing at zero. I also tested the pH, which is off the charts like. Bright red/purple color. Should I just start slamming with chlorine instead of adjusting the CYA and pH? Also I have a robot vacuum but should I be using a better vacuum to start with all this? Please HELP!!! And thank you!!!!
HElP!!! Tons of algae/0 CYA/pH off charts/ back swimmers and/or water boatman?
- Thread starter Ilovemylife1129
- Start date
- Jun 24, 2021
- 7,507
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Take a deep breath. Simple answer is to print out the SLAM instructions. Read them 3 times and start. Link-->SLAM Process
Yes, adjust pH and CYA first.
Do you have any big debris (sticks, leaves etc.)? Best get those out first.
I'd wait on the robot until you know you have big debris out and only picking up dead algae.
Yes, adjust pH and CYA first.
Do you have any big debris (sticks, leaves etc.)? Best get those out first.
I'd wait on the robot until you know you have big debris out and only picking up dead algae.
We did use the net and got all big debris out we think. I have run the robot about 4-5 times since yesterday and just filled mainly with algae. Do I consider CYA a level of 0 since it was clear to the top? And what level would I consider the pH?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 7,507
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Yes, CYA is 0. Add 30ppm using the sock method.
Use pool math and reduce pH by .4 with muriatic acid. Circulate the pool for 30 minutes with the pump. Rinse and repeat in .4 increments until you get pH down to SLAM target.
Ok so raise CYA from 0 to 30? And lower pH by entering something like 8.2 down to 7.8 and keep going by .4 each time until I get to 7.2-7.5? How long to wait in between adding for pH to test again? And same with CYA to test again?
Make sure the pool has good circulation and the water is well mixed. I would get the PH in order then using LC I'd try to see if you can get FC to 10 and hold it there for 20 minutes to rule out an AMMONIA problem which eats up all the CYA and FC. If the FC holds and doesn't disappear you now know the CYA is just missing but not consumed. Then add 30 ppm of CYA and begin slam. Keep the slam close and keep check often at the beginning because that's when the chlorine works very hard fighting the algae. Once the water changes to a blueish grey it'll still lose but not as in the beginning.
Last edited:
- May 23, 2015
- 24,436
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Get the water mixing first before you rely on those test results. Water in the pool will stratify over winter with fresh water floating on brackish pool water. You need to get the pump running and mix the water first. That zero CYA could be a false low value due to winter precipitation.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 7,507
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
@wireform is right. Should check for ammonia at 0FC and 0CYA.
1) Add enough FC to add 10ppm. Run pump and check again in 20 minutes. If FC<5, then add enough to get back to 10ppm. When FC holds above 5 after 20 minutes proceed.
2) Reduce pH with .4 increments, retest after 30 minutes. Repeat.
3) At the same time, put 30ppm into a sock in front of a return and get it going. No need to test again until SLAM is over.
So I have been slamming and everything is going good. My chlorine dropped to 9 since the last time I added chlorine and I’m supposed to be keeping it at 16. I decided to test the pH and it is now down to 6.8. Should I raise it some and then keep adding chlorine?
disregard CYA, pH, TA and CH during the SLAM. Your only testing needs to be FC and then CC at the end of the SLAM