Thanks for all your help. According to the cya/chlorine chart I should be at just under FC 20, so I'm going to shoot for that.
Help on Shock SWG as trying to balance
- Thread starter lews
- Start date
Okay. The pool has basically cleared except for visible algae on 20-30% of the walls and floor.
This algae is different than any I experienced due to (i) the original white, turned brownish green color and (ii) the time it has take to clear it (or most of it). Despite hard brushing (boy I'm tired of that) the remainder seems almost baked on. Perhaps this is mustard or some other tough to kill algae? I've been maintaining FC 20, but perhaps I need to supershock it - to 32? CYA is only about 37-38. Also note that I've kept PH in the 7.2-7.6 range.
One other thing. With the algae, I now see what looks like a crack across the bottom of the pool (plaster, ~2 yrs old). The pool was built on nearly solid rock so I can't imagine that the shell has shifted. I'm in NC too, which has mild winters and moderate ground water levels. The pool has a 3 year warranty, but I'd like some thoughts on the situation before calling them.
A good thing is the iron staining hasn't yet returned.
This algae is different than any I experienced due to (i) the original white, turned brownish green color and (ii) the time it has take to clear it (or most of it). Despite hard brushing (boy I'm tired of that) the remainder seems almost baked on. Perhaps this is mustard or some other tough to kill algae? I've been maintaining FC 20, but perhaps I need to supershock it - to 32? CYA is only about 37-38. Also note that I've kept PH in the 7.2-7.6 range.
One other thing. With the algae, I now see what looks like a crack across the bottom of the pool (plaster, ~2 yrs old). The pool was built on nearly solid rock so I can't imagine that the shell has shifted. I'm in NC too, which has mild winters and moderate ground water levels. The pool has a 3 year warranty, but I'd like some thoughts on the situation before calling them.
A good thing is the iron staining hasn't yet returned.
Can you post a pic - that doesn't sound like algae... makes me wonder about scaling....
I will tomorrow but I think I just found the problem. It's iron stain. Just different from before. I just took 6 vitamin c tablets and placed them on the steps and it cleaned to white within a minute. Dang. I checked the sequest level and it was at 8-9 (jack's recommends 10-12 for maintenance; 18-20 for stain removal). Do you think I could push PH down to 7.0 and put in more sequestant or do I need to get more AA and start all over again?
I'm going to try AA again. How much Poly 60 do I need to avoid algae (since there will be no FC at all)?
Need more help. I've gone through the AA treatment again - 4 days ago. Pushed FC to zero, PH - 7.0 and added 3 lbs of AA ( 24,100 gallons-tried a lighter dose first). Put in Poly 60 and this time, I made certain there was enough. After stain lifted, the pool was nicely clear, then the next day it was white/cloudy. Just like before. Again, I wasn't worried about the cloudiness because that's supposed to happen for a couple of days.
But it isn't clearing. For the last two days I've been slowly adding bleach but I don't yet have a reading on the test kit. Then I noticed a very slight smell - so slight you aren't sure you smell it but I think it's there. And I think it's an animal smell. The next clue is the skimmer which some slimy stuff on the handle. It's like some slimy frog egg slime or something.
Remember last time, with the cloudy water, I put in bleach and it turned green, then nasty brown. I think this is Pink Algae or White water mold. What should I do?
But it isn't clearing. For the last two days I've been slowly adding bleach but I don't yet have a reading on the test kit. Then I noticed a very slight smell - so slight you aren't sure you smell it but I think it's there. And I think it's an animal smell. The next clue is the skimmer which some slimy stuff on the handle. It's like some slimy frog egg slime or something.
Remember last time, with the cloudy water, I put in bleach and it turned green, then nasty brown. I think this is Pink Algae or White water mold. What should I do?
And remember my CYA has decreased from the beginning of this project. I think the bacteria is eating it.
And my "check cell" came during the last cloudy/bloom episode. I rinsed in and cleared it but the light stayed on. I was using bleach at the time so decided to deal with it later and haven't done anything further. Now, I think it might be contaminated by the biofilm
I found this on wiki answer:
WHITE MOLD CLEARED UP
I am going to assume you mean "water mold". Looks pretty yukky, shredded tissue etc.? Is that about right? I'm guessing you have or are now using a non chlorine sanitizer like Baquacil, or Soft Swim or other labels to describe a biguanide sanitizer. Here's the answer.
Get ready to reach deep into your pocket. The number of gallons you'll be treating is directly proportionate as to how deep you will have to dig into you pocket.
Search/Call the swimming pool stores in your area to see if they carry a product called: Assist (by Bio Guard), or Optimizer**& buy it. Assist is a tablet that is placed in the skimmer, Optimizer is granular and broadcasted over the water. You will also need a large supply of liquid muriatic acid. For every pound of Optimizer you will need to add acid. The proportions are listed on the Optimizer. Follow them.
The bad news is that not only is the mold you may have seen in your water, it is in all of your lines and equipment that the water flows through. It's a son of a ----- to kill. The good news is that it can be done.
DON'T CONSIDER DRAINING THE POOL(remember it's in everything the water touched) Chlorine doesn't kill it either (as you've probably found out). You will need to change the sand after you have eliminated the mould.
Once you have done that, Balance the pool water properly. Find a chlorine program that will work for you. There are some good ones. Get an automatic chlorinator, so all you'll have to do is shock the pool weekly, keep the pH in the PROPER RANGE etc. Find a good pool store to analyze your water and buy your products from them (if you want to get good advice when you need it) Use good products. Remember: Walmart, Lowes etc. don't test pool water and are "salesmen" they tell you only what the sales rep told them" They generally have no working knowledge of swimming pools and swimming pool water. I hope this helps. It won't be easy and it won't be fun, but it is do-able.
As a matter of information, BioGuard Soft Swim Assist is no longer available (since mid 2008). The above information is overall correct. One thing to keep in mind is that BioGuard Optimizer Plus WILL NOT kill or remove white water mold (WWM) or pink slime (this is NOT an algae - it is a form of bacteria). What Optimizer Plus will do is help to make the sanitizer - whatever one is being used - be more effective.
A better product that is showing good results both here in the US and in Europe is a product called AquaFinesse Pool Pucks. The Pool Pucks will remove the WWM from the surfaces they are affecting and growing on - which means virtually any pool surface, seen or unseen. Pool Pucks are compatible with any and all pool sanitizers and sanitizing systems and they will NOT affect pool water chemistry.
You may want to read up on bio-films in general. That is the root cause of WWM, Pink Slime, many scaling issues, etc. Here's a good link to bio-films.
WHITE MOLD CLEARED UP
I am going to assume you mean "water mold". Looks pretty yukky, shredded tissue etc.? Is that about right? I'm guessing you have or are now using a non chlorine sanitizer like Baquacil, or Soft Swim or other labels to describe a biguanide sanitizer. Here's the answer.
Get ready to reach deep into your pocket. The number of gallons you'll be treating is directly proportionate as to how deep you will have to dig into you pocket.
Search/Call the swimming pool stores in your area to see if they carry a product called: Assist (by Bio Guard), or Optimizer**& buy it. Assist is a tablet that is placed in the skimmer, Optimizer is granular and broadcasted over the water. You will also need a large supply of liquid muriatic acid. For every pound of Optimizer you will need to add acid. The proportions are listed on the Optimizer. Follow them.
The bad news is that not only is the mold you may have seen in your water, it is in all of your lines and equipment that the water flows through. It's a son of a ----- to kill. The good news is that it can be done.
DON'T CONSIDER DRAINING THE POOL(remember it's in everything the water touched) Chlorine doesn't kill it either (as you've probably found out). You will need to change the sand after you have eliminated the mould.
Once you have done that, Balance the pool water properly. Find a chlorine program that will work for you. There are some good ones. Get an automatic chlorinator, so all you'll have to do is shock the pool weekly, keep the pH in the PROPER RANGE etc. Find a good pool store to analyze your water and buy your products from them (if you want to get good advice when you need it) Use good products. Remember: Walmart, Lowes etc. don't test pool water and are "salesmen" they tell you only what the sales rep told them" They generally have no working knowledge of swimming pools and swimming pool water. I hope this helps. It won't be easy and it won't be fun, but it is do-able.
As a matter of information, BioGuard Soft Swim Assist is no longer available (since mid 2008). The above information is overall correct. One thing to keep in mind is that BioGuard Optimizer Plus WILL NOT kill or remove white water mold (WWM) or pink slime (this is NOT an algae - it is a form of bacteria). What Optimizer Plus will do is help to make the sanitizer - whatever one is being used - be more effective.
A better product that is showing good results both here in the US and in Europe is a product called AquaFinesse Pool Pucks. The Pool Pucks will remove the WWM from the surfaces they are affecting and growing on - which means virtually any pool surface, seen or unseen. Pool Pucks are compatible with any and all pool sanitizers and sanitizing systems and they will NOT affect pool water chemistry.
You may want to read up on bio-films in general. That is the root cause of WWM, Pink Slime, many scaling issues, etc. Here's a good link to bio-films.
I just found out that optimizer is basically borax. How can I kill this stuff without shocking it and driving the stain back?
I don't see any evidence that you have water mold, nor have you been using baquacil, so I don't really get why that quote was interesting to you.
You can add borates fairly easily. If you want to do that soon you will need to use boric acid. Using borax and muriatic acid will cause too much of a PH swing, while using boric acid will simply lower the PH by just a tiny bit, which will be harmless in your situation. However, while borates will help a little, they won't solve the situation.
You need to get the sequestrant level up to the correct level, if it isn't already, and then finish shocking the pool.
You can add borates fairly easily. If you want to do that soon you will need to use boric acid. Using borax and muriatic acid will cause too much of a PH swing, while using boric acid will simply lower the PH by just a tiny bit, which will be harmless in your situation. However, while borates will help a little, they won't solve the situation.
You need to get the sequestrant level up to the correct level, if it isn't already, and then finish shocking the pool.
Thanks. See photos. This is like a mucous slime. In reading all I can about this, it seems to fit. I understand what you say about it being unlikely in a chlorine pool but it sure looks like it. And it's true that I haven't found any connection between CYA and bacteria from research, there are some threads on CYA eating something. There's one or two on TFP even. Here's:
"In my case, it appears to be some kind of soil bacteria that goes untreated during the winter (I don't try to maintain a FC level while it's covered.) This bacteria can convert the CYA into ammonia."
I guess it doesn't matter as the treatment is chlorine, but it's interesting. Cloudiness after AA treatment seems common - maybe in some cases the cause is bacteria. In my case, the water is crystal clear for 12-24 hours after the stain lifts before getting cloudy. It seems that if the cloudiness was from the sequestrant action then I'd see that right away.
The only reason I mentioned that article was trying to shock the pool at the lowest FC level in order to help with the re-staining. The article said that Bio Guard Optimizer helped, but I'm now thinking it's got a lot of bs in it.
"In my case, it appears to be some kind of soil bacteria that goes untreated during the winter (I don't try to maintain a FC level while it's covered.) This bacteria can convert the CYA into ammonia."
I guess it doesn't matter as the treatment is chlorine, but it's interesting. Cloudiness after AA treatment seems common - maybe in some cases the cause is bacteria. In my case, the water is crystal clear for 12-24 hours after the stain lifts before getting cloudy. It seems that if the cloudiness was from the sequestrant action then I'd see that right away.
The only reason I mentioned that article was trying to shock the pool at the lowest FC level in order to help with the re-staining. The article said that Bio Guard Optimizer helped, but I'm now thinking it's got a lot of bs in it.
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Your pool is infested with alien larvae 
I've never seen "water mold", but that's what I'd pictured when I imagined it. The stringiness certainly suggests that it is (or was) alive and growing like that, and it's not just a gooey scum buildup. Continued shocking will get rid of it, whatever it is.
I've never seen "water mold", but that's what I'd pictured when I imagined it. The stringiness certainly suggests that it is (or was) alive and growing like that, and it's not just a gooey scum buildup. Continued shocking will get rid of it, whatever it is.